Chapter 17 Hairstyling

1. Chapter 17Hairstyling

2. “You can’t be brave if you’ve only had wonderful things happen to you.”– Mary Tyler Moore

3. Objectives Demonstrate finger waving, pin curls, roller setting, and hair wrapping. Demonstrate various blow-dry styling techniques. Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons. Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and explain how they are used.

4. Describe the three types of hair pressing. Demonstrate the procedures involved in soft pressing and hard pressing. Demonstrate three basic techniques of styling long hair. Objectives (continued)

5. Wet-Styling Tools Combs Brushes Rollers (short, medium, or long) Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged) Pins Clamps

6. Finger Waving The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb, waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies.

7. Finger-Waving Lotion Makes hair pliable and holds it in place Made of karaya gum Diluted for use on fine hair Concentrated for regular or coarse hair Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry Avoid excessive amounts of

8. Horizontal Finger Waving Preparing Hair for Wet Styling Horizontal Finger Waving Procedures will be covered during the practical class.

9. Pin Curls Parts of a Curl Base Stem Circle

10. Mobility of a Curl No-stem Half-stem Full-stem

11. Shaping Begin at open end of a shaping.

12. Open- and Closed-Center Curls Open-center curls • Closed-center curls

13. Curl and Stem Direction Forward movement Reverse movement Upward movement Downward movement Clockwise Counterclockwise

14. Pin Curl Foundations or Bases Rectangular base Triangular base • Arc base • Square base

15. Pin Curl Techniques Ribboning Waves

16. Carved/sculptured curls Ridge curls Skip waves Pin Curl Techniques (continued)

17. Creating Volume with Pin Curls Cascade curls Barrel curls

18. Roller Curl Advantages Speed Increased strength Greater creativity

19. Parts of a Roller Curl Base Stem Curl

20. Choosing Roller Size C-shaped curl Wave • Curls

21. Roller Placement On base Half base • Off base • Indentation

22. Wet Styling Wet set with rollers Procedure will be covered during practical class.

23. Rollers Hot rollers: used on dry hair only; heated electrically or by steam Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes (not allowed in some states)

24. Back-Combing Technique Section hair. Insert comb. Press comb to scalp. Create cushion base. Repeat for volume. Smooth hair.

25. Back-Brushing Technique Hold strand. Place brush. Roll brush. Turn brush. Blend hair. Complete styling.

26. Hair Wrapping Hair Wrapping Procedure Procedure will be covered during practical class.

27. Thermal Styling The process of drying and styling damp hair in one operation Today’s women desire styles that require less time and effort to maintain.

28. Blow-Dry Styling Tools Blow-dryer Handle Slotted nozzle Small fan Heating element Speed/heat controls Diffuser

29. Combs, Picks, Clips

30. Brushes Classic styling brush Paddle brush Grooming brush Vent brush Round brush Teasing brush

31. Styling Products Foam or mousse Gels Liquid gels or texturizers Straightening gels Volumizers Pomade or wax Silicone shiners Hair spray or finishing spray

32. Blow-Dry Cautions Don’t hold dryer in one place too long. Direct air flow. Direct hot air away from scalp. Move in back-and-forth motion. Partially dry before style blow-drying.

33. Blow-Dry Procedures Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair Diffusing long, curly hair Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style Procedures will be covered during practical class.

34. Thermal Hairstyling Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques

35. Thermal Irons Four parts Rod handle Shell handle Barrel or rod Shell

36. Flat Irons Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across Used to create smooth, straight styles

37. Testing Thermal Irons Heat iron. Clamp heated iron over tissue. Note if paper scorches. Let cool as needed.

38. Care of Thermal Irons Wash with soap and water. Use fine sandpaper or steel wool. Oil joint.

39. Thermal Iron Comb Size Holding comb

40. Manipulating Thermal Irons Grasp handles with dominant hand. Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle.

41. Practice with Cold Irons

42. Other Types of Curls Spiral curls Part hair. Insert iron. Rotate iron. Hold for 4 to 5 seconds. Remove iron.

43. Other Types of Curls (continued) • End curls.

44. Volume-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold strand at 135-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place on base. Other Types of Curls (continued)

45. Full-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold strand at 125-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place firmly on base. Other Types of Curls (continued)

46. Half-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold hair at 90-degree angle. Slide iron over hair strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place it half on base. Other Types of Curls (continued)

47. Off-base thermal curls Section off base. Hold hair at 70-degree angle. Slide iron over strand. Wrap strand over rod with medium tension. Maintain position for 5 seconds. Roll curl and place off base. Other Types of Curls (continued)

48. Finished Thermal Curl Settings

49. Safety Measures Get instructions for use of irons. Keep irons clean. Do not overheat. Test temperature. Handle carefully. Place hot irons in safe place to cool. Don’t place handles too close to heater.

50. Properly balance irons in heater. Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs. Do not use metal combs. Place comb between scalp and iron. Curl only clean, dry hair. Avoid fishhooks. Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair. Safety Measures (continued)