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Control Processes and Sources of Failure for RSLs AAFA Restricted Substances Seminar

Control Processes and Sources of Failure for RSLs AAFA Restricted Substances Seminar September 21, 2006. 关于 H&M Facts About H&M. 建立于 1947 年 , 瑞典 Established in Sweden in 1947 在欧洲和北美洲已有 1200 家商店 Over 1200 stores in Europe and North America 雇员超过 50,000 名 More than 50,000 employees

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Control Processes and Sources of Failure for RSLs AAFA Restricted Substances Seminar

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  1. Control Processes and Sources of Failure for RSLs AAFA Restricted Substances Seminar September 21, 2006

  2. 关于H&MFacts About H&M • 建立于1947年,瑞典 Established in Sweden in 1947 • 在欧洲和北美洲已有1200家商店 Over 1200 stores in Europe and North America • 雇员超过50,000名 More than 50,000 employees • 2005年营业额约100亿The turnover in 2005 was ~USD 10 bn. • 700个供应商 700 suppliers • 2007年将要在上海和香港开设商店Open stores in Shanghai and Hong Kong in 2007

  3. H&M化学品限制条款(RSL)H&M Chemical Restrictions (RSL) • 化学品清单List of Chemicals • 全球相关的化学品和法规的概况Summary of global legislations and chemicals of concern • 于1995年引入Introduced in 1995 • 于1996,1999,2002,2003和2005进行过更新Updated in 1996, 1999, 2002, 2003 and 2005 • 有害染料,农药,重金属,甲醛,乙氧基烷基苯酚,聚氯乙烯,邻苯二甲酸盐等.Harmful dye stuffs, pesticides, heavy metals, formaldehyde, APEO, PVC, phthalates etc

  4. 为什么化学品限制条款对H&M很重要Why RSL is Important for H&M • 法规, Legislation • 保护消费者, Protect customer • 保护工人, Protect workers • 保护环境, Protect environment • H&M品牌(负面公众舆论会导致财政损失)H&M brand (negative publicity will cause financial loss) • 领先于法规之前,避免问题Stay ahead of coming legislation, and avoid problems • 与供应商密切合作, Closer cooperation with suppliers

  5. 保护消费者Protect Customer

  6. 保护H&M品牌Protect H&M Brand Children jackets as poisonous as harbour waste sludge Hormone disruptors in Children-Rainwear German newspaper ”Hamburg Morgen Post” 23 October 2001

  7. 被限制使用的化学品失败的源头Sources of Failures for RSLs • Bad communication沟通不好 – YES!是! • Lack of information 缺少信息– YES!是! • Lack of production knowledge 缺少大货生产的知识– YES!是! • Contamination 污染– YES!是! • Faulty processing误操作 – YES!是! • Bad luck运气不好 – NO!不是! • Testing problems测试有问题 – NO!不是!

  8. 沟通化学品限制条款Communicate RSL RETAILER 品牌零售商 RSL化学品限制条款 Compliance declaration 遵从的声明 VENDOR, 供应商 DYER, 染厂 PRINTER, 印花厂 TANNER, 制革厂 CHEMICAL SUPPLIER 化学品供应商 SUB CONTRACTOR 分包商

  9. Bad Communication 沟通不好- example例如 APEO in Cotton fabric: 在棉织品中的APEO: • Suspected softener可疑的柔软剂 • Called chemical supplier and received confirmation that the softener contained APEO. 致电给化学品供应商并收到此柔软剂不含APEO的确认函. • Time needed: 5 min所需时间:5分钟 • Cost: almost nothing成本:几乎没有 但是之前没有人去问过 BUT nobody asked the question before

  10. Information信息 要求所有化学品: Require for all chemicals: • 物质安全数据表MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) • 遵从RSL的保证书Compliance declaration to RSL • 对储存罐进行标注Labelled containers • What if chemical supplier can’t deliver this? • 他们不知道 They don’t know 不要使用他们! Don’t use it!

  11. Dyes, 染料 Auxiliaries, 助剂 Print paste, 印花浆料 Wet processing 湿处理 Button, 钮扣 Zipper, 拉链 Sequin, 珠片 Pigment, 涂料 Plastic, 塑料 Metal, 金属制品 Accessories 小商品 Washing, 服装洗水 Spinning, 纺纱 Knitting, 针织 Weaving, 机织 Synthetic fibre, 合成纤维 Natural fibre, 自然纤维 Fibre, 纤维 Oil, 和毛油Size, 上浆 Detergents, 洗涤剂 Bleach, 漂白剂 Product Knowledge产品知识 Chemicals Garment, 服装

  12. Production Knowledge大货生产知识 Chemicals 化学品 Fabric 面料 Production 大货生产 Garment 服装 What you put in is coming out! 你们加入什么就出来什么! Accessories 小商品

  13. Contamination 污染- example例如 Phthalates in screen print 筛网印花中的邻苯二甲酸盐 • All ingredients in the print paste were phthalate-free 所有色浆中的成分都不含邻苯二甲酸盐 • Spray adhesive was used on the screen to keep the fabric in place during printing 印花过程中会在筛网上使用粘合剂 • Glue contained the restricted phthalate DEHP 胶水中含有所限制的邻苯二甲酸盐DEHP

  14. Faulty Processing 误操作- example例如 Formaldehyde in cotton fabric: 棉织物中的甲醛: • Suspected easy care finishing step怀疑免烫整理步骤 • Too low temperature温度太低 • Not enough time时间不够

  15. Summary概要 • 沟通RSL, Communicate RSL • 记录所使用的化学品Record of chemical products used • 索要化学品必要的信息Require necessary information about chemical products • 有专人负责(化学工作者)Person responsible (chemist) • 测试产品/原材料Test products/materials

  16. Mattias BodinChemical Responsible, Asiamattias.bodin@hm.com+86 21 5234 1238 x 257

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