HISTORY OF FASHION

1. THE HISTORY OF FASHION

2. LEARNINGTARGETS INDIVISUAL PRESENTATION 1. The fashions that teens wear now – What inspired them? – Could they have been worn earlier in the 20th century? – You are wearing the same blue jeans that a coal miner might of worn 150 years ago- sure there are changes- but jeans are jeans! Fashion has developed over time, but just like history, it repeats itself! INDIVISUAL SUBMISSION - SKETCHES CAN BE EITHER MANUAL OR SOFTWARE BASED 2. Develop a range of 5-7 garments taking inspiration from any 3 fashion contributor country(Egypt/Greece/Roman/France/Japan/China/India) discussed during the session. Points to incorporate in your sketches • Make-up & Hairstyle • Motifs/Prints/Patterns • Colors GROUP ACTIVITY- FORM 7 GROUPS EACH GROUP WILL TAKE 1 FASHION CONTRIBUTOR COUNTRY. 3. Collect visuals from magazines/books/newspapers/internet and create a collage comparing clothing similarities between the ancient clothing & the present fashion (any 1 country). ALL THE GROUP MEMBERS WILL TALK ABOUT THE ASSIGNMENT ONE BY ONE. GROUP ACTIVITY- CAN BE CONDUCTED ON SATURDAY’S 4. Do/Develop the accessories/makeup/hairstyling/draping, activity in a group of 2-3 students taking inspiration from the current topic taught in History of Fashion class.

3. PROJECT REFERENCE

4. PROJECT REFERENCE

5. PROJECT REFERENCE

6. PROJECT REFERENCE

7. THE EARLIEST CLOTHING • Thousands of years ago people learned to make clothing from natural resources as protection from the weather. – Animal skins & hair – Plants – Grasses – Tree bark How do we know all of this? Through cave and tomb drawings and ancient sculptures. •

8. FIRST CLOTHES AND FABRICS • • • Simple in structure & design Varied from region to region Fragments of textiles date back to 7500 B.C. Linen cloth was made from flax plants by Egyptians in 5000 B.C Thousands of years later inhabitants of India, Pakistan, and possibly Americans made fabric of cotton • •

9. FASHION OF EARLY CIVILISATIONS • • • • People learned to raise animals and grow crops They refined the arts of spinning, weaving, and dyeing They began to cut fabric into garments Ancient fashion contributors include: – Egypt – Greece – Roman Empire – France – China – Japan – India

10. EVOLUTION OF FASHION Evolution of Fashion • Fashion changed very slowly • People often wore the same style clothing for life • A particular style could continue past a lifetime • Until the 14thcentury, European clothes were loose-fitting and draped • Around 1350 people started wearing more fitted styles • Regional clothing differences became visible as European settlers came to America

11. MEN& WOMEN EARLY CLOTHING • Men – Knee-length pants called breeches • Women – Gowns with a fitted bodice, full skirt, and long, full sleeves. • Embroidery and decorative edging • Wealthy wore silk garments trimmed with fur and adorned with silver accents • Peasant clothes were limited to certain colors and fabrics

12. FASHION IN ANCIENT EGYPT

13. LINEN • All clothes were almost always made of linen which is made from flax. Growing flax was a job for men only. Flax stems were soaked for several days. The fibres were beaten until soft. The fibres were twisted into strong thread. The weaving was done on a loom. White linen had to be washed a couple of times. They washed it in the river or canal, rinsed, then it was pounded on a stone. After that it was bleached in the sun. They pressed the linen into grooves on a wooden board to let it dry. • • • • • • •

14. CLOTHING

15. LIONCLOTH • • A triangular piece of cloth worn by commoners, nobilities and royalties. Slaves were only allowed to wear it after the formation of new kingdom.

16. SCHENTI • A skirt which is pleated in front worn by nobilities and royalties. Till knee level Till thigh level in the old kingdom. 3000 B.C. to 2000 B.C. • •

17. TUNIC • A rectangular piece of cloth with a hole in the centre for the neck worn by pharaohs after conquering Ceria. 1500 B.C. to 750 B.C. •

18. KALASIRIS • • Worn by women. Sheath or a tube dress with straps. 2 or one strap going over the shoulder. Mid-calf or ankle length. Starched and pleated. • • •

19. CAPE • Worn by women by the new kingdom. A round piece of cloth with a hole in the centre for the neck and belted at the waist. •

20. HEADWEAR

21. FOOTWEAR • Wore during the new kingdom. Made of leather or papyrus fibre. •

22. ANCIENT EGYPTIAN JEWELLERY • Mummies were decorated with jewellery before they where put inside the pyramids. Rich women wore gold jewellery sets with precious stones. Even very poor people wore jewellery. They had necklaces and rings made from shells or beaten copper. Jewellery was worn by both men and women, for magical as well as aesthetic reasons for example, a fish pendant might protect a child from drowning. Egyptians liked to look good, they wore simple, flowing clothes and lots of jewels. Poor people wore copper rings or a string of beads. The more important a person was, the more jewellery they wore. They wore jewelled belts, earring, rings , bracelet and collars –– deep, flat necklaces that fastened at the back. • • • • • •

23. ANCIENT EGYPTIAN JEWELLERY

24. MAKE UP • Eye shadow: made of malachite which is red and green in colour Hena: nail paint and colouring their hair Kohl: eye liner made of galena ore PURPOSE OF MAKEUP To keep away the insects. To keep away the evil eye. To prevent inflammation and allergy. Dust • • 1. 2. 3. 4.

25. CLEOPATRA • CLEOPATRA: the last pharaoh of Egypt. • She tried to restore Egypt to greatness but she was conquered by the Roman Empire and committed suicide with lover, Mark Antony. • She poisoned herself.

26. KING TUTANKHAMON

27. FASHION IN ANCIENT GREECE

28. GREEK -CIVILISATIONS 1. The three significant civilisations of ancient Greece are- • Minoans •Mycenaean •The Ancient Greek 2. The purpose of clothing was not only to cover & protect the body, but also to decorate & enhance the beauty of the wearer. 3. In Ancient Greece, a persons tunic was decorated at the hemline to represent the city or state in which he lived.

29. 8 thCentury B.C -18 thCentury A.D •The kind of clothing worn in ancient Greece was loose and flowing and the garments were often sewn together. • The fabrics used were mainly linen or wool. •Women also wore a veil with their clothing whenever they stepped out of the house. •In fact, the ancient Greek fashion was quite modern in its outlook as far as men were concerned to the extent that male nudity was really not a big deal in ancient Greece.

30. 8 thCentury B.C -18 thCentury A.D • Greeks did not cut and sew their clothes until the fourth century. They used to create different styles by draping finely woven cloth around their bodies. •The wealthy people could afford fine wool & linen, others used textiles made of coarse wool. •Much of our knowledge of Greek Fashions comes from the marble sculptures. •Many people thought they wore only white garments but, experts discovered. That these statues were once covered with bright paint that wore off over the Centuries.

31. CHITON •Chiton was worn in the ancient Greece by men as well as women. •Unisex clothing was quite popular in ancient Greek fashion. •Later on both men and women started wearing stitched Chiton tunics with a U or V neckline •The Chiton could be worn with a Himation or it could be worn without it as well. •A belt was also worn with the chiton, which was called the zoster.

32. CHLAMYS •The Chlamys was also flowing in its appearance and was mainly worn by the soldiers in ancient Greece. •The chlamys was also worn with other forms of clothing. • This was worn pinned at the right arm.

33. PEPLOS •The Peplos consisted of a tubular shaped cloth—this was folded from the inside out. •The top area of the tube usually gathered at the waist and the bottom area extended till the ankles. •The cloth on the upper area was brought underneath the left arm—this was secured with the help of tapes or pins on the right shoulder •The top layer of the cloth, which draped the waist often gave the appearance of two pieces of cloth •There were certain types of patterns that were used for the peplos. Some of the common patterns included checks, flowers, waves or even stripes.

34. HIMATION •When the himation was being worn in ancient Greece, it represented a form of outdoor wear. •The himation is also an important garment of ancient Greek fashion. •This was generally made from a rectangular piece of wool with the use of lighter fabrics, the himation was worn at any time of the day. •The himation was loose and flowing, thus, it can be termed as a modern cloak—it was also used as a form of drapery to be worn over the chiton.

35. JEWELLERY •Jewelry did form a significant part of ancient Greek fashion was discovered with the findings of jewelry at the Greek sites which proves that women in ancient Greece loved to wear all sorts of jewellery with their flowing garments—bracelets, earrings and necklaces •Even men were not left behind as far as ancient Greek fashion was concerned. It is known that men wore jewellery till the 4th century.

36. MAKE UP •Ancient Greek women also used make up—pale or light skin was considered a status symbol for women. •Women used honey and olive oil to improve their skin •They often used substances as a substitute for cosmetics for enhancing their looks Dark powder was dusted over the eyebrows and red powder was used over their lips •Women also loved to wear their hair long during this period.

37. HAIRSTYLE •Hairstyles in ancient Greece also changed over time •In the early days of Greece, men normally wore their hair short and grew beards •Later on beards went out of style •Long hair was typical for Greek women; only slave women would wear their hair short •Women curled and braided their hair in early Greece •Later the style was to tie their hair back or put it up into a bun.

38. ROMAN CLOTING

39. ROMAN CLOTING •Most people wore clothes made from wool or linen. Cotton cloth brought from India and silk from China were also used for making clothes, but they were too expensive. •Fur was also used, especially in winter. •Clothes were usually made from large, uncut pieces of cloth, which were folded and pinned with pins, or tied with belts.

40. MEN’S CLOTING •A man´s basic clothing was a loincloth (underwear) and a tunic over it. •Tunics were made from two rectangles stitched at the sides and shoulders, and tied with a belt. •If he were a citizen, he would also wear a toga. •A toga was a large piece of cloth wrapped round the body. 1. 2. 3. Tunic Palla Stola

41. WOMEN’S CLOTING •Over the underwear, women wore a tunic made of wool or linen, with our without sleeves. •Over this they wore a dress called stola, which reached their ankles. •They sometimes wore a shawl, called the palla, on top. It was a large rectangular piece of cloth which they could drape over the stola in many ways. •Tunic •Palla •Stola

42. THE TUNICA • Nearly all Romans wore a simple tunic under more formal clothes, while slaves generally wore only a tunic A tunic worn as underwear was known as tunica intima. Male tunic would generally reach roughly to the knees, whereas women’s tunics would generally be longer, some reaching to the ground. Female tunics often also had long sleeves This was the most basic of the Roman garments. It was basically a long, woolen T-shirt that fell just below the knee. Most tunics were solid white,There was some formal differences in tunics which denoted social rank. Boys’ tunics, had a garnet-colored stripe. • • • • • •

43. THE TUNICA

44. THE TUNICA

45. STOLA STOLA and PALLA • The stola was a long, pleated dress, worn over an undergarment called a tunic or tunica intima (the Roman version of a slip). The stola was generally sleeveless but versions of it did have short or long sleeves. These sleeves could belong to the stola itself or be a part of the tunic. The traditional sleeveless stola was fastened by clasps at the shoulder called fībulae The stola was frequently worn with a a long shawl-like garment called a palla. It was worn when women went outside and typically went over one shoulder and draped across the body. It could also be pulled up over the head as a shawl. The stola typically had two belts, and was typically girt with ribbons The first was worn just below the breasts creating a great amount of folds. The second and wider belt was worn around the waist. • • • • • • •

46. STOLA STOLA and PALLA Tunica Intima Stola FĪBULAE

47. PALLA STOLA and PALLA • The stola was a long, pleated dress, worn over an undergarment called a tunic or tunica intima (the Roman version of a slip). The stola was generally sleeveless but versions of it did have short or long sleeves. These sleeves could belong to the stola itself or be a part of the tunic. The traditional sleeveless stola was fastened by clasps at the shoulder called fībulae. • • •

48. PALLA STOLA and PALLA

49. TOGA STOLA and PALLA • In the early days the toga was worn directly on the naked body, then later a simple tunic was added, tied at the waist with a belt. There were some old families with ancient ancestry who insisted on continuing the tradition of dressing without a tunic, but their fellow Romans understood them somewhat eccentric. Basically the toga was a large blanket, draped over the body, leaving one arm free. Through experiments historians have concluded that the vast blanket took the form of a semi circle. •

50. TOGA STOLA and PALLA