Research & Development

1. Research & Development ( R & D Fabrication )

2. R & D Fabrication • Sampling Order Receiving from Merchandiser. • Selection of Yarn. • Knitting parameters setting. • Finishing Parameters (Samples + Production). • Samples inspection according to four point system. • Testing of samples • Checking parameters at every stage (Knitting, dyeing & finishing)

3. Process Flow of R & D Sample Order Decision of Parameter Yarn demand Generation Dyeing Knitting Yarn Procurement Finishing Quality & Testing Dispatching

4. Sample Order (SO) Sample order consist of following • GSM of fabric. • Fabric Quality. • Fabric Composition. • Fabric Testing Standard. • Customer Remarks related to finishing.

9. Selection of Yarn • Type of yarn • Normal Yarn, Fancy yarn. • Normal Yarn cotton, polyester, acrylic and nylon are normal yarn. • Fancy yarn Slub yarn, Heather yarn, Mélange yarn and lycra yarn.

10. Count • Number of hanks per pound is called Count. (1 hank is equal to 840 yards) • We say that if 1 pound cotton makes 1 hank, count will be 1. • Or 1 pound cotton makes 2 hank, count will be 2. For Cotton: 1 Hank = 840 yards For Wool : 1 Hank =256 yards

11. Yarn Count Definitions • Denier ( Den) = Gram / 9000 m. • Grex = Gram / 10,000 m. • Tex = Gram / 1000 m. • English cotton count (Ne) = 840 yd / 1 lb or Ne = 768.1m / 453.59g • Metric Count (Nm) = Meter / 1g

12. Count Conversion Formulae • From metric count (Nm) to others: Tex  = 1000 / Nm NeB  =  0.59 x Nm Den  =  9000 / Nm • From denier (den) to others: Nm  =  9000 / den NeB  =  5315 / den Tex  =  0.111 x den

13. Knitting Parameters Input output Gsm Width Count Stitch length Dia Guage

14. Relation Between Count, GSM & SL • Count GSM, Count GSM 20/1 200 22/1 181 It shows as “count increases, Gsm decreases” • Stitch length GSM St.Length Gsm 0.32 200 0.34 188

15. Relation B/W Dia,Guage & Width Dia & Gauge œ Width: Dia Gauge # of Needles Width 30 20 1872 58“ 30 24 2268 70” 34 20 2136 66”

16. Tightness Factor Tightness factor is a ratio between yarn diameter and its loop length in the structure. It indicates tightness or looseness of a fabric. Tightness factor does not have any units and for practical purpose its value ranges between 1.29 and 1.8. Higher value indicates a tighter fabric & lower value indicate looser fabric. Mathematically tightness factor can be expressed as under, Tightness Factor = √Tex / Stitch length in mm Where Tex = √ 590.5 / Count / S.L in mm (3.3) = √ 29.52 /S.L = 5.43 /S.L T.F will be = 1.64

17. Different methods to check GSM • By GSM cutter: GSM = gram per square meter (wt / area). GSM = Wt of cut fabric * 100 • Area of cutter: Л(r²) • Dia of cutter: 113mm or 11.3cm Area = 3.14 * ( 11.3 / 2 )² =100

18. 10cm 8cm In case of Non-availability of GSM Cutter • GSM = Wt / Area • Suppose a fabric has length 10cm and width 8cm, then Area will be: Area of fabric = 10 x 8 = 80 cm² or 0.008 m² Suppose wt of fabric is 2g Then GSM = 2 / 0.008 = 250

19. 8cm 10cm GSM = Wt / Area Area = 1/2(base × height) Area = 1/2(10*8) = 40cm2 or 0.004m2 Suppose Wt of fabric is = 2g Then GSM will be: GSM = 2/.004 = 500

20. Consumption of yarn in a Knitted fabric • Calculation of yarn in 3-End-Fleece with yarn composition Yarn Count Stitch Length %age 30/1 0.38 0.38/30 = 0.0127 0.0127/0.0367*100=34.60% 20/1 0.28 0.28/20 = 0.014 0.014/0.0367*100=38.147% 16/1 0.16 0.16/16 = 0.01 0.01/0.0367*100=27.2479% • Total yarn three loop(30/1,20/1,16/1) = 0.0367

21. KNITTING “ Knitting is a process in which yarn is converted into loops with the help of needles ”

22. Types of Knitted Fabric • Single Knit Fabric • Double Knit Fabric

23. Types of Single Knit Fabric • Single Jersey • Single PQ Loqast • Double PQ • 2.Thread Fleece • 3.Thread Fleece

24. Types of Double Knit Fabric • Thermal • Waffle • Rib • Interlock • Mesh

25. Box baby terry

26. Vertical feed stripe jersey

27. Single Jersey

28. Tilla Fleece

29. Single Jersey (Embroided)

30. Finishing Definition: “It is a process, To enhance the aesthetic properties of a fabric by treating with chemical and mechanical devices is called finishing”.

31. Types of Finishing • Chemical Finishing: In chemical finishing, different finishes are applied on a fabric with the help of chemicals such as, Silicon finish, Stain Release, Anti-microbial finish, Resin finish etc.

32. Mechanical Finishing In mechanical finishing, fabric is treated with mechanical devices to impart aesthetic look/properties to the fabric such as, Peaching, Raising, Heat setting and Compacting.

33. Finishing Route’s To apply different finishes on a fabric, different route’s are followed in finishing .Some of them are as follow: • Stretch Dry, Compact. • Slit,Heat set,Dye/white/wash,Slit,stretch dry, Compact. • Slit,Stretch Dry,Peach,Re-stretch,Semi Dry, Tumble. • Slit,Stretch dry, compact.

34. Quality Control • Quality: “Quality is a standard achieved by process to render a defect free product to the customer” To control the quality of a fabric, fabric is inspected according to Four point system. Four point system introduced by JC-penny for fabric inspection.

35. Faults Grading

36. Points Allowed • Knitting Quality=Maximum 20 points allowed/100 linear yards • Finish Fabric: Maximum 40 points allowed/100 linear yard. • 3 minor faults in one linear yard=1 major (Four points will be given)

37. How to change Kgs into Yards For Tubular: Yards = Weight (Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width*2 For Open Width: Yards= Weight(Kgs)*43055.20 Gsm*Width Points Allowed for Tubular=Total yards*0.2 or Total yards/5 Points Allowed for Open Width: =Total yards*0.4 or Total yards/2.5

38. Testing • After finishing, fabric is tested to ensure the quality of a fabric. Following tests are performed on a fabric according to the requirement of customer. • Shrinkage test • Torquing • Colour Fastness to Light, Water, Washing & Perspiration. • Bursting Strength • Pilling Test • Flammability

39. Dispatching After ensure the quality & testing of a fabric, fabric is dispatched to Apparel Division.

40. Presented by: Abdul Rouf Deputy Manager Research & Development