Understanding Coastal Dynamics: Waves, Currents, and Lighthouse Insights
This chapter explores the intricacies of coastal environments, comparing active and passive margins. With a focus on Morris Island Lighthouse in South Carolina, it highlights the significance of coastlines where 53% of the U.S. population resides in coastal counties. The chapter delves into deep-water wave forms, factors controlling wave dynamics like wind speed and fetch, and the characteristics of different wave types such as plunging and spilling breakers. This knowledge is essential for understanding coastal erosion, human impact, and infrastructure resilience.
Understanding Coastal Dynamics: Waves, Currents, and Lighthouse Insights
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Presentation Transcript
1. Waves, Currents, and Coastlines Chapter 10
2. Morris Island Lighthouse, SC
3. Coastlines Active vs. passive margins
Population concentration
Seven of 20 largest US cities on or near coastline
53% US population lives in coastal counties
4. Deep-water wave form (water depth > 0.5L)
5. Water particle motion
6. Factors controlling waves Wind speed
Duration
Fetch
8. Plunging breakers
9. Spilling breakers