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Lecture 5 Waves and Currents - PowerPoint PPT Presentation


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Lecture 5 Waves and Currents. Formation of Waves. Travelling Waves. Anatomy of Waves. Forces Generating Waves are Different. Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force. Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension. Forces Generating Waves are Different.

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Presentation Transcript
slide1

Lecture 5

Waves and Currents

slide5

Forces Generating Waves are Different

Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force

Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension

slide6

Forces Generating Waves are Different

Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force

Chop 1 – 10 sec Wind Gravity

slide7

Forces Generating Waves are Different

Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force

Swell 10 – 30 sec Wind Gravity

slide8

Forces Generating Waves are Different

Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force

Seiche 10 min – 10 hr Wind/Seismic Gravity

(standing wave)

slide10

Forces Generating Waves are Different - Summary

Wave type Period Disturbing force Restoring force

Capillary <0.1 sec Wind Surface tension

Chop 1 – 10 sec Wind Gravity

Swell 10 – 30 sec Wind Gravity

Seiche 10 min – 10 hr Wind/Seismic Gravity

(standing wave)

Tsunami 10 min – 2 hr Seismic Gravity

Tide 12.4 or 24.8 hr Gravity Gravity

slide11

Tsunamis

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBZGH3yieLc&lr=1&feature=mhum

slide15

Waves and Depth

Deep water

Shallow water

slide17

Types of Breaking Waves

Spilling

Result from waves of low steepness (long period swell) over gentle slopes.

slide18

Types of Breaking Waves

Plunging

Result from steeper waves over moderate slopes.

slide19

Types of Breaking Waves

Surging

Surging breakers surge over steeply sloping (but not vertical) beaches or rocks. Occur where the beach slope exceeds wave steepness.

slide20

Wave breaking

Gentle – spilling

Moderate – plunging

Steep - surging

slide34

Coastal Upwelling - Fishing

50%

0.1%

Upwelling area Fishing

slide39

Next time:

Coastlines