Textile Fibers and Yarns

Textile Fibers and Yarns Fashion Design Unit 2 Mrs. Abbey

Fiber Categories • Natural • Originate from natural sources • Plant (cellulosic) or animal (protein) • Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable) • Originate from chemical sources • May also be from regenerated or recycled sources

Natural Fibers • Cellulosic (from plants) • Cotton • From cotton plants • Flax (linen) • From flax stems • Protein (from animals) • Silk • From cocoons of silkworms • Wool • From fleece (hair) of sheep or lambs

Fibers Staple: short fibers Usually characterizes a natural fiber Filament: long continuous fibers Usually characterizes a synthetic fiber (except silk) Denier Fiber thickness or diameter Yarns Fibers twisted together Ply refers to how many yarns may be twisted together before weaving Fabrics Yarns woven, knitted, or fused together to create fabric Textile Terms

Cotton • Cellulosic fiber • From “bolls” (seed pods) growing on bushes • Comfortable • Soft and durable • Absorbent, cool to wear • “Environmentally friendly” cotton can be grown in a range of colors

Wool • Protein fiber • From sheep • Natural insulator • Will shrink and mat if washed

Flax (Linen) • World’s oldest textile fiber • Cellulosic fiber from stem of flax plant • Stiff, wrinkles easily • Absorbent, cool to wear in heat Linens Flax is the fiber name; linen is the fabric name.

Silk • Workers soak the cocoons in warm water and unwind the long, natural filament fibers • Known for exceptional beauty, luster, and drapability • Expensive to produce, has limited durability, and needs special care • Imported from silk-producing countries such as China, Japan, and Thailand

Other Natural Fibers • Ramie • Jute • Sisal • Hemp • Raffia • Down feathers • Hair fibers from • Goats • Rabbits • Camels Cellulosic Fibers Protein Fibers

Leather and Fur • From hides or pelts (skins) of animals • Leather is made by preserving animal hides through a process call tanning, which converts hides into finishes, usable leather • Expensive • Artificial substitutes available (faux leather and fur) • Leather used mainly for footwear • Fur used for “prestige” apparel and accessories

Manufactured Fibers • Process • Raw materials melted or dissolved to form thick syrup • Liquid extruded through spinneret • Extruded filaments stretched and hardened into fibers

Qualities that are unique or superior to natural fibers Elasticity Nonallergenic Strength Resistant to abrasion Qualities that may be less than desirable Feel clammy because they are nonabsorbent Build up static electricity Susceptible to oil stains Manufactured Fibers

Other Types of Manufactured Fibers • Fibers that come from a plant (cellulosic) source; chemically altered to create new fibers (regenerated) • Rayon • Acetate and Triacetate • Lyocell

Fiber Innovation and Trends • Fibers are designed for specific end-uses • Polymers (chemical compounds) are engineered to meet needs • “Microfibers” are ultra-fine deniers that make softer, more luxurious fabrics • Spandex added in fiber blends to make stretchable fabrics NEW!! Plastic soft drink bottles recycled into apparel

Spinning Fibers into Yarns • Spinning draws, twists, and winds staple, filament, or blends of both fibers into long, cohesive strands or yarns • Yarns wound onto bobbins or spools • Twist may vary, creating different yarn properties Early 18th century spinning wheel

Yarn Terminology • Yarn blends • Combining two or more fibers into a spun yarn • Combination yarns • Contain two or more plys of different fibers • Textured yarns • Changing the surface of a yarn using chemicals, heat, or machinery Texturing gives bulk, stretch, softness, and wrinkle-resistance to yarns.

Textile Fibers and Yarns