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Husbandry

Husbandry. It is estimated that the majority of health problems observed in pet birds is due to improper husbandry and diet. CAGES. An aviary (a cage big enough for your bird to fly in) is ideal. But if you can’t have one. Cage Size.

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Husbandry

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  1. Husbandry It is estimated that the majority of health problems observed in pet birds is due to improper husbandry and diet

  2. CAGES • An aviary (a cage big enough for your bird to fly in) is ideal. But if you can’t have one . . .

  3. Cage Size • Get a bigger cage for your bird than you think he needs. At the absolute minimum, a bird needs a cage large enough so that he can fully spread his wings without touching the sides of the cage, and at least twice that size is better.

  4. Bar Spacing • Your bird's head should not be able to fit between the bars of the cage. If it can, you could easily end up with a strangled bird.

  5. Materials • Stainless steel and powder‑coated (that is, baked‑on coating) cast iron and steel cages are best. Galvanized steel should be avoided, because birds can and do succumb to zinc poisoning.

  6. Doors • There should be at least a 1/4" gap on all sides between the door and frame of a bird's cage. Tight‑fitting doors are a recipe for severed toes and feet.

  7. Placement • Parrots are social animals and like to be where the action is. The living room or den is generally a good place for a cage. Do NOT put a bird’s cage in a bedroom, garage or other isolated place.

  8. More on Placement • Never place a bird's cage in the middle of a room. That's a recipe for an anxious, nervous bird. Place cages against walls, preferably in well‑lit areas. And if you place your bird’s cage in front of a sunny window, make sure that part of the cage is in shade.

  9. Bottom Lining • Use newspaper (at least two sheets thick), and change the papers daily. Avoid using ground corn cob, walnut shells or other such spongy media on cage bottoms; they hide filth and encourage the growth of deadly bacteria and fungus.

  10. Room Temperature • If a person is comfortable in a T-shirt then the room temperature is probably comfortable for an adult bird (75 F) • Exception is neonates, which require higher temperatures depending upon their age • If a neonate needs to visit the hospital, the owner should be advised to bring supplemental heat and a covered (with air holes) container to keep the neonate warm • Newly hatched chicks can require up to 94F and greater than 50% humidity • The body temperature of different species of birds can vary between 104F and 112F

  11. Humidity • Tropical parrots prefer 50-60% humidity • Some birds, such as budgies and zebra finches, are from arid regions and may require less • Gas heaters used in homes during the winter months can create dry air within the house and a humidifier may be needed in the bird’s room to maintain adequate humidity

  12. Cage Cleaning • Haul your bird's cage outside and thoroughly scrub it down every few weeks. Strong sunlight is a great disinfectant. • Bleach 1:32

  13. Dish Cleaning • Clean your bird's water and food dishes at least daily. (Water dishes tend to need cleaning two or three times a day.)

  14. Time Out of Cage • At a bare minimum, your bird should have at least two to four hours out of his cage every day, and more “out time” is better.

  15. PERCHES • All good perches have uneven surfaces. Grapevine perches and mesquite-branch perches are very good, as are perches made from citrus and eucalyptus. Large-diameter rope perches are comfortable, but should be washed and trimmed (of loose strands) often.

  16. More on Perches • Avoid perfectly round perches—dowel sticks, PVC pipe, etc. Such perches can give your bird painful foot sores. • Manzanita perches are slippery and can be a hazard for baby birds or birds with balance problems, but are okay for most birds. • Avoid sandpaper-covered perches. • Cement perches are okay only if there are also natural-wood perches in the cage.

  17. Showers • Bird need regular showers. It is recommend at least once a week. Some birds prefer spray bottle baths, while others prefer going into the shower with you. • Helps maintain healthy feathers and most birds appear to enjoy it, especially those from South America, such as macaws and Amazon parrots • Birds can be placed in the shower or sink, or offered a shallow bowl for bathing

  18. Sprinklers and bowls

  19. Light • Parrots need a certain amount of UV light. If you can, take your bird outside with you at least 15 minutes a day or, better, provide him with an outdoor aviary. The aviary, of course, should be partially shaded.

  20. Sleep • Light Cycle • In general, birds should be exposed to the natural light cycle occurring outside or be kept at 10h of light/14h of dark • To avoid stimulating reproductive activity in some birds (i.e. chronically egg laying cockatiel), the amount of “light time” may need to be decreased even more

  21. Enrichment/TOYS • Usually safe if made from hardwoods (either untreated or vegetable dyed), untreated leather, ropes, uncoated steel, stainless steel, or hard plastics • One study in humans showed that some soft plastics contain toxic levels of lead, so these should be avoided for birds • Avoid long ropes or chain that can wrap about a bird’s neck, foot, or toe • Avoid materials that are galvanized or those that contain lead or zinc

  22. Perches

  23. TOYS

  24. Flowers

  25. GYM

  26. Natural Foliage

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