Flat Pattern Dart Rules Bodice Sloper Front /Back Bust Point/ Pleats Fold Line/ Pleats Pivot Points/ Cut 1 or Cut 2 Pattern Making/ Notches Gathers/ Center Front
What Is Flat Pattern? A fitted basic pattern with ease (extra seam allowance) is developed to fit a standard-size person, or dress form.
The 5 basic pattern pieces are used for women’s clothing? • Basic Bodice Front • Basic Bodice Back • Sleeve (Long) • Basic Skirt Front • Basic Skirt Back
What is SEAM ALLOWANCE? • Seam allowance is the area between the edge and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together. • Seam allowances can range from ¼’’ inch wide to as much as several inches. • Commercial patterns for home sewers have seam allowances ranging from ¼’’ inch to 5/8’’ inch. • Industry Seam Allowance is 3/8”
Pattern Pieces w/out seam allowance is called: • Slopers • Blocks • Master Patterns
Flat Pattern Tools: • Notcher • L-square • Hip curve ruler • Pattern Hanger • Needlepoint tracing wheel • Pattern Circle punch • Pair of Shears • Metal Weight • Protractor
Two Types ofDarts: Fitting darts are triangular folds in the cloth that make the flat fabric fit the curves of the body .Decorative Darts have no use (they are for decoration only!).
Dart Rules: #1- Fitting darts point toward the bust point and, for certain design effects, may point into the bust circle. #2- Fitting darts must not point outside the bust circle. #3- Decorative darts point outside the bust circle and do not fit. The dart angle must be very small so no bulge is created.
Dart Rules: #4- Fitting darts end on or within the bust circle. #5- A fitting dart may not extend beyond the bust point or apex (top). This is the maximum length. #6- If two fitting dart in different seam-lines are lengthened to the bust point or apex (top), the darts will take up some of the normal ease, and the garment will fit more snugly.
Labeling the Pattern: • Bust point or apex (B) • Center Front (C.F.) • Center Back (CB) • Place on Fold(:.) • Notches • Straight ofgrain-line • Bust Circle • Cutting Instructions (Cut 1 or Cut 2) • Cut on Fold • Designers Name (Example: E. Dorris)
Seam Allowance Measurements: • 1/8” • ¼” • 3/8” • ½” • 5/8” • ¾” • 7/8” • 1”
Which is Bigger? 3/8” of an inch. OR 5/8” of an inch?
Which is smaller? 1/8” of an inch OR ½” of an inch?