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Emulsion Chemistry for Cosmetic Chemists Society of Cosmetic Chemists September 24, 2006

Emulsion Chemistry for Cosmetic Chemists Society of Cosmetic Chemists September 24, 2006. Shattering Myths about R&D. This is what regular people imagine R&D people to be like but this is not true!. Actual Cosmetic Chemist at work. Emulsion Chemistry Meet Your Instructor.

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Emulsion Chemistry for Cosmetic Chemists Society of Cosmetic Chemists September 24, 2006

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  1. Emulsion Chemistry for Cosmetic Chemists Society of Cosmetic Chemists September 24, 2006

  2. Shattering Myths about R&D This is what regular people imagine R&D people to be like but this is not true!

  3. Actual Cosmetic Chemist at work.

  4. Emulsion Chemistry Meet Your Instructor • Perry Romanowski • Alberto Culver • Senior Project Manager Hair Care Innovation • DePaul University • BS. In Chemistry, Biology • MS. In Biochemistry • SCC Area II Director

  5. Emulsion ChemistryMeet your instructor Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry by Schueller and Romanowski

  6. Emulsion ChemistryMeet your instructor 3rd fastest juggling marathoner in the world justyouraveragejoggler.com

  7. Emulsion ChemistryAudience Survey • Undergrads? • Grad students? • Job seekers? • Entrepreneurs?

  8. Emulsion Chemistry Outline – What you should learn • Learn about emulsions • What they are • Where they are used • How you make them • Practical information

  9. Emulsion Chemistry: Presentation Agenda • Science of emulsions • How to make them

  10. Emulsion Chemistry: Cosmetics • Cosmetics are all about changing / improving surfaces

  11. Emulsion Chemistry: The Problem - Oils • Oils are excellent cosmetic materials • Improve surface feel • Protect • Aid in moisturization • Reduce static • Shine • Don’t wash away • Oils have drawbacks • Tacky, greasy • Cost too much

  12. Emulsion Chemistry: The Solution – Dilution!

  13. Emulsion Chemistry: The Problem • Oil & Water Do Not Stay Mixed • Why? • Lower free energy when separate • Why? • Hydrogen Bonding • Oils are non-polar • Size of molecules

  14. Emulsion Chemistry: The Solution • Add energy to the system • Agitation • Heat • Need something to stabilize • Surfactants or Emulsifiers

  15. Emulsion ChemistryEmulsifier – The Stabilizer • Lipophilic tails & Hydrophilic heads • Reduce interfacial surface tension • Helps disperse oil in water • Forms micelles in solution

  16. Emulsion Chemistry: The Solution - Demo

  17. Emulsion Chemistry:Micelle formation • Oil breaks into tiny droplets (particles) • Hydrophilic heads align with water • Lipophilic tailsalign with oil • Note: More structures than this formed in solution. Depends on surfactant concentration

  18. Emulsion Chemistry: The Solution Molecules in Motion

  19. Emulsion!

  20. Common Emulsions Peanut Butter Salad Dressing Milk

  21. Emulsion ChemistryEmulsions • Pseudo-Stable mixtures of oils & water • Three phases • Internal Phase • External Phase • Emulsifier

  22. Emulsion ChemistryEmulsions • Why are they useful? • Improved feel • Easier to apply – Shear thinning • Less chemical exposure = safer • Use the right amount • It’s generally cheaper!

  23. Emulsion ChemistryEmulsions - Particles • The importance of particle size • Clarity • Stability • Characterization • Macroemulsions • Microemulsions (also Nanoemulsions)

  24. Emulsion ChemistryEmulsions – Particle Size

  25. Emulsion ChemistryEmulsions - Types • Type of emulsions • Oil in Water • Water in Oil • Multiple emulsions

  26. Emulsion ChemistryOil in Water – O/W • Internal phase = oil • External phase = water • Advantages • Easiest to formulate • Least expensive • Best feel – cooling effect • Disadvantages • Less oil delivered • Not as effective for dry skin • Not water-resistant

  27. Example Product – O/W St. Ives Vitamin E Lotion Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum), Stearic Acid, Glycol Stearate, Stearamide AMP, Petrolatum, Dimethicone, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract (Matricaria), Helianthus Annuus Extract (Sunflower), Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, Primula Veris Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa), Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol, Cetyl Acetate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Carbomer, Propylene Glycol, Propylparaben, Methylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitol, Fragrance (Parfum), Yellow 5 (CI 19140) Other Products Hair conditioners Sunscreen Wrinkle Creams

  28. Emulsion ChemistryWater in Oil – W/O • Internal phase = water • External phase = oil • Advantages • Waterproofing possible • Most effective for dry skin • Better stability • Disadvantages • Oily, tacky feel • More expensive

  29. Example Product – W/O Philosophy hope in a tube, Firming cream Water (aqua), Squalane, Mineral Oil, Glycerin, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Petrolatum, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate, PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Ceresin, Polyethylene, Microcrystalline Wax, Magnesium Sulfate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl/Lauroyl Glutamate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Bisabolol, Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate, Iron Oxide (CI 77492, CI 77491 and CI77499), Methylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea, Ethylparaben, Tetrasodium EDTA

  30. Emulsion ChemistryEmulsions – Differences • Is it O/W or W/O? • Dilution – O/W disperses more easily • pH – O/W has consistent pH • Conductivity – O/W conducts electricity

  31. Emulsion ChemistryMultiple Emulsions • Multiple phases • Oil in Water in Oil (O/W/O) • Water in Oil in Water (W/O/W) • Advantages • More effective than Oil in Water • Less greasy than Water in oil • Time release, active delivery possible • Disadvantages • Hard to manufacture • Not always stable

  32. Just for funCosmetic Chemistry Challenge #1 • Cosmetic Research Quiz – Which story is fake? • 1. Hair can expose eating disorders. • 2. Drinking spearmint tea can speed hair growth. • 3. Ocean oil spills can be cleaned up with hair. • 4. Geckos use hair to stick to surfaces.

  33. Emulsion Stability

  34. Emulsion Chemistry Emulsion - Stability • Emulsions are inherently unstable • Second Law of Thermodynamics • Good emulsions last a long time • But eventually, these things happen…

  35. Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions - Stability Problems • Flocculation • Coalescence • Creaming • Inversion

  36. Emulsion ChemistryEmulsion – Stability • Formulators fight the Second Law! • Prolong the life of the product • How? • Emulsifiers • Thickeners • Particle Size • Testing for stability • Viscosity Checks • Appearance

  37. Emulsion Formulation

  38. Emulsion Chemistry:Elements of the Formula • Formula Components • Oil Phase • Hydrophobic materials • Oils, esters, fragrances • Aqueous phase • Extracts, colorants • Humectants • Thickeners • Emulsifiers • Holds it all together

  39. Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions – Oil Phase • Examples in cosmetics • Lanolin and derivatives • Natural Oils / Fats • Waxes • Silicones • Esters • Emollients

  40. Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions – Aqueous Phase • Anything that is soluble in water • Examples in cosmetics • Water • Hydrolyzed proteins • Humectants • Glycols • Extracts • Dyes • Polymers, thickeners • Acids, etc.

  41. Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions – Aqueous Phase • Thickeners to stabilize the emulsion • Examples in cosmetics • Carbomer • Locust bean gum • Xanthan gum • Cellulosics • PVP/Decene copolymer

  42. Most common For Cosmetic Emulsions Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions – Emulsifiers • Surfactants • Anionic • Carboxylic acids : Soaps • Sulfonic acids: Sulfosuccinate esters • Cationic • Amines : PEG Alkyl amine • Quaternaries: Tetraalkyl ammonium salts • Amphoterics • Phospholipids • Nonionics • Fatty Alcohols • Esters • Polymers

  43. Glyceryl Stearate PEG-100 Stearate Stearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Laureth-23 Steareth Alcohol Cetyl/PEG/PPG 10 Dimethicone Stearic Acid Emulsion Chemistry:Typical Emulsifiers

  44. Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions – HLB • How to pick emulsifiers • Mostly, it’s trial and error • Modify starting formulas • Or Learn to use HLB

  45. Less polar (low HLB) More Polar (High HLB) Emulsifiers – HLBHydrophobe/Lipophobe balance • Varying degrees of non-polar & polar character. • Specific oils need specific surfactant polar/non-polar character to be effectively emulsified.

  46. Emulsion Formulation:HLB System • HLB system - • William Griffin from Uniqema in 1949 • System to quickly create stable emulsions • Works best with nonionic surfactants • Ingredients are assigned an HLB value • (based on molecular weight & solubility) • Lower values are less water soluble • Oils are assigned HLB values • Amount of emulsifier is calculated • Where to learn more • http://www.specialchem4cosmetics.com/services/editorials.aspx?id=1928

  47. Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions – HLB Common Oils used and the HLB needed to Create an emulsion

  48. Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions – HLB Chemical Ethylene Glycol Glyceryl Stearate Sorbitan Palmitate Laureth-4 Nonoxynol-9 Polysorbate-80

  49. Emulsion Chemistry:Emulsions – HLB Formula • HLB is only a good approximation • Doesn’t always work • Multiple emulsifiers improve stability • More emulsifier is used than needed

  50. Just for funCosmetic Chemistry Challenge #2 • Cosmetic Research Quiz – Which story is fake? • 1. Drinking tea can protect your skin. • 2. Smearing black raspberry on your skin will protect it. • 3. Oil used to make French fries may help repair damaged skin. • 4. Playing an instrument is good for your skin.

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