Chemistry

1. Chemistry You will learn about: Matter pH Scale Chemistry of Cosmetics

2. Why Chemistry? The professional cosmetologist needs to understand the chemicals he/she works with in order to: - safely perform chemical services requested by clients, - teach clients how to care for their hair following chemical services, - and, sell products to their clients.

3. Matter • Anything that occupies space; exist in 3 forms: • Solids – weight, volume, shape • Liquids – weight, volume, no shape • Gasses – weight, indefinite volume and shape Liquid Gas

5. Organic Matter • Matter that is now living or was alive at one time. • Ex. - Plants and animals Plants and Mulch Humans Animals

6. Inorganic Matter • Matter that is NOT alive or has never been alive; does not contain carbon. • Ex. – rocks, water, minerals Rock – Granite Water Mineral - Quartz

7. Changes In Matter • Physical Change • Change the characteristics without making a new substance. • Ex. – Ice Melting • Chemical Change • A change in a substance that creates a new substance with chemical characteristics different from those of the original substance. • Ex. – Rust – oxygen mixed with metal creates rust (or iron oxide)

8. Properties of Matter • Color • Odor • Weight (density) • Hardness or softness

9. Elementsthat make up hair # Element Symbol Form 6 Carbon C Solid 8 Oxygen O Gas 1Hydrogen H Gas 7 Nitrogen N Gas 16 Sulfur S Solid

10. Atoms • Smallest complete unit of an element • 3 parts – proton, neutron, electron • Protons and neutrons packed tight in center to form core or nucleus • Electrons move about in orbiting paths at nearly the speed of light.

11. Nucleus • Proton • Positive electrical charge (+) – gives atom its name. • Neutron • No electrical charge – determines the weight of an atom - neutral • Electron • Negative electrical charge – makes it possible for atoms to combine with other atoms to form bonds.

12. Molecule • Molecules form when unstable atoms combine chemically by sharing electrons.

13. Chemical Bonds • Atoms combine chemically to create compounds that eventually create protein of hair.

14. Amino Acids • Compounds of C,O,H,N • 22 Common amino acids • Join together in chains to make proteins

15. Protein • Hair is made up of protein called keratin • Hair is 97% keratin and 3% trace minerals • Hair contains 19 of 22 common amino acids.

16. Hydrogen Bond • Unlike charges attract. • Makes up about 35% of hairs strength. • Individually very weak and can easily be broken by heat or water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair. How it Works: • The hydrogen atom in one molecule is attracted to an atom of another molecule that has many negative electrons.

17. Salt Bonds • This bond is a result of the attraction of unlike charges. • Also broken by water to create physical (temporary) changes in the hair. How it Works: • Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the positive charge in another amino acid grouping.

18. How Hydrogen and Salt Bonds are Broken by Water Water molecules can easily break hydrogen and salt bonds when the water molecules move in between the bonds. When the water molecules are not present the hydrogen and bonds come back together. H H2O H H2O H H2O H H2O H H2O H Hydrogen Bonds broken by water molecules

19. Disulfide Bonds • Sulfur containing side bond - Most important to a Cosmetologist. • A chemical bond that forms between protein structures; sulfur-type side chains join with other sulfur-type side chains to form disulfide bonds. • Much stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds. • Not broken by heat or water. Only a chemical change. • Example – permanent wave

20. van der Waal’s • Based on theory that atomic groups prefer an environment with other groups thathave structures similar to theirs. • Not necessarily important for Cosmetologist, other than to know that it exists and plays a role in bonding of protein chains.

21. End Bonds(Peptide Bonds) • Backbone of all protein molecules • Links the amino acid protein chains together end to end. • Do not disturb the end bond, this could destroy the protein structure. • If broken, protein chains separate into small fragments, or revert to groups of amino acids that no longer have the characteristics of hair. • RESULT – VERY DAMAGED HAIR!

22. Side Bonds • Link the long spiraling protein chains together. • Made up of hydrogen, salt and disulfide and Van der Waal’s forces. Label the Bonds Van der Waal’s

23. Stages of Hair Formation 5. The individual protein chains bond to other chains by hydrogen bond, salt bonds and disulfide bonds. 3.Amino acids unite to form peptide or end bonds. 2.Unite to become molecules of amino acids. 1.Begins with individual atoms. 6. Hair 4. Amino acids create polypeptide protein chains.

24. Hair Shaft

25. Cuticle Layer

26. Close Look at the Cuticle Layer

27. Chemistry Talking Points

28. The pH Scale In this section you will learn what the pH scale is and it’s values associated with water, acids and alkalines. Conditioners & Shampoo Hair relaxers Soap Hair

29. Potential Hydrogen • Abbreviation – pH • Measures whether substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline

30. Water-Based Solutions • pH measures amount of acid or alkali only in a water based solution. • Only solutions containing water or solutions that can be dissolved in water can be acid or alkaline in value. • Most products used in salon have water listed as main ingredient.

31. Acid More positive hydrogen ions than negative hydroxide ions

32. Acid • 0 – 6.99 on pH scale • Skin and hair acid-balanced at 4.5 – 5.5 Ex. Lemons and Conditioners

33. Neutral Equal number of hydrogen and hydroxide ions. 7.0 Ex. Water

34. Alkaline • More negative hydroxide ions than hydrogen ions.

35. Alkaline • 7.01 – 14 on pH scale Ex. Amonia and Hair Relaxer

36. pH Scale • Unit of measurement – determines if substance is acid, neutral or alkaline. • Ranges from 0 – 14 • 7 is Neutral

37. 0 – 6.99 • Acid range (orange) • More positive hydrogen ions

38. 7.01 - 14 • Alkaline range (purple) • More negative hydroxide ions

39. Testing pHpH Nitrazine Paper

40. pH Pencil

41. pH Meter

42. Acid Balanced • pH is in the same range as skin and hair • 4.5 – 5.5 Ex. Acid Balanced Shampoo

43. pH Scale Conditioners & Shampoo Hair & Skin 4.5 to 5.5 Baby Shampoo Hair relaxers Soap

44. Chemistry of Cosmetics • Cosmetic Classifications • Based on how wella substance combines and its physical characteristics

45. Solutions • Mixture of 2 or more kinds of molecules • Do not separate • Can be solid, liquid or gas

46. Suspensions • Mixture of 2 or more kinds of molecules • Separates • Needs to be shaken • Example: Vinegar and Oil

47. Emulsions • 2 or more non-mixable substances united by a binder (gum). • Example: oil in water (perms) • Example: water in oil (cold cream)

48. Ointments • Mixture of organic substance and a medicinal agent • Semi-solid form • No water • Example: Lipstick

49. Soaps Mixtures of fat and oil converted to fatty acids by heat and then purified.

50. Powders • Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic substances that do NOT dissolve in water. • Sifted and mixeduntil free of coarse grit.