Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions
Important role in fashion • Either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field • Opportunities for stylists to cut, color, and care for wigs www.wiggoddess.com/.../thumbrunway%20fashion.jpg cdn2.ioffer.com/img/item/435/214/36/e131_1_bo.JPG
Range from clip-on hairpieces to elaborately applied extensions • Newest technique, single strands of hair are meticulously hand-tied onto individual strands of clients hair • Requires specialized training www.sergiossalonandspa.com/images/wigs_before... www.highdefinitionhair.com/images/sasha_befor.. ..
Each manufacturer has its own attachment method • Take the manufacturer’s class • Inventory can be a hefty investment • Clip-on extensions-demand is high www.galiwigs.co.uk/images/process/DSC_0019.jpg
Income ranges from a small amount to thousands of dollars • Hair-loss clients and medical clients, (cancer patients) have particular needs for hair additions www.internetwigs.com/.../large/shampoo_LG.jpg www.headcovers.com/uld/mcim/wigs-cancer-patie...
Human Hair versus Synthetic Hair • Pull a strand of hair from the wig or hairpiece and burn it with a match • Human hair will: • * burn slowly • * gives off a distinctive • odor cancerfairygodmother.com/.../01/vogue-wigs.jpg
Synthetic hair will: • * “ball up” and melt • *extinguishing itself • *burn out very quickly • *will not give off an odor hottscizzors.com/images/burning.jpg
Advantages of Human Hair Wigs • Realistic appearance • Greater durability • Same styling and maintenance as natural hair • Can be custom colored, permed • Tolerates heat from a blow-dryer, curling iron, or hot rollers List price $ 995.00 www.qdhairbeauty.com/images/lace%20wig%209.jpg
Disadvantages of Human Hair Wigs • May frizz or lose its curl in humid weather • After shampooing, hair needs to be reset • Color will fade • Hair will break and split if mistreated
Advantages of Synthetic Wigs • Strong and durable-Kanekalon • Natural, lustrous look and feel • A great value, less expensive • Style and texture are set into the hair • Very easy for clients to maintain • Shampoo in cold water img.en.china.cn/0/0,0,205,16063,330,349,a48e4... www.cjsfulllacewigs.com/.../product/TeriWig.JPG
Cut according to the latest styles • *cut, color, and texture already set • You may need to do some detailing or custom trimming • Colors are limitless • Cheaper wigs are more solid in color • High-end products mixed with many shades/highlights/lowlights for a natural effect • Colors will not fade
Disadvantages of Synthetic Wigs • Cannot be exposed to extreme heat • Coloring is not recommended • So shiny may not look natural • If thick, will look unnatural • on a fine-haired client 24.99 cchairandbeauty.com/.../bally2-1-1-01-01.jpg
Quality and Cost • Pros and cons, you get what you pay for • Your success will be determined by the quality of the product itself www.beautymajor.com/images/D/lilyB-01-01.jpg img.diytrade.com/cdimg/486456/7713651/0/12300... cdn2.ioffer.com/img/item/103/497/312/p71H.jpg
The most expensive wigs are made with human hair • European hair • *top of the line • Hair from India • *lengths from 12”-16” • *naturally wavy • Asia • *lengths from 12”-28” • *naturally straight img.alibaba.com/img/buyoffer/102149322/Indian... www.zarawigs.com/.../56424-lace-front-wigs.jpg
Human hair mixed with animal hair • *angora, horse, yak, or sheep hair • *Yak from animals belly and is purest of whites • Great for fantasy colors-attracts the teen market, often used in theatrical or fashion settings travelblog.paintedstork.com/image/yak.jpg www.catscostumes.net/.../catswigsfullcast03.jpg
Human hair mixed with synthetic hair (cheapest) • Often half and half • Advantages and disadvantages of both • Good option if best color and texture are chosen for client
Ask the manufacturer several important questions when selecting a wig for a client: • Made from human hair, animal hair, mixture, or synthetic • Is the hair colored • Human hair grading-strength, elasticity, porosity
Cuticle-intact • Turned hair or Remi hair • *cuticles of all hair move in the same direction • *better condition • *easier to work with • *doesn’t tangle easily • *time consuming-increases the cost • Read Focus on
Fallen hair • *gathered from a hairbrush • *cuticles move in different directions • ~tangles • *Remi refined hair-cuticle partially removed • ~will not lock or mat • *Fallen hair less expensive than Remi hair
Ask manufacturer: • Is hair tangle free? • *if cuticle has been removed • *cannot condition-will mat • Condition of the hair? • Will it match client’s hair? • Can it be permed? • Will it last 4-6 months-continual use?
Wigs • Wigs are an artificial covering • for the head consisting of a • network of interwoven hair • The client’s hair is completely • concealed • Hair piece used to cover the • top or crown of the head shop.perimart.com/images/D/08040008-2.jpg www.wigsandpieces.com/.../bailey-wigs-L.jpg
Types of wigs • Cap wigs-constructed with elasticized mesh-fiber base • Several sizes • Require special fittings • Are hand-knotted www.todaystylist.com/wig_cap_custom_mine_4.jpg
Front edge resembles client’s scalp • Wire support at the temples for a snug fit • Hand tied to conceal the cap edge • Side and back edges contain wire supports, elastic, and hooks for a secure fit www.todaystylist.com/wig_cap_custom_mine_4.jpg
Capless wigs-are machine made • Human or artificial hair • Wefts-long strips of hair with a threaded edge-sewn • Ready-to-wear and less expensive • Open points like fish net stockings • Extremely light and • comfortable to wear www.ladieswigs.net/.../2009/11/monocap.jpg www.todaystylist.com/BN27L_wig_cap_open.jpg
Capless wigs are healthier-allows the scalp to breathe • Cap wig: • *best for extremely thin or no hair clients • FYI: • Lace wigs • *new • *more comfortable www.ladycage.com/zen/images/WAVY.jpg i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto/Articles/549375...
New innovations=more comfortable • Lace front wigs • *natural-looking hairline • Wigs are now well designed and fashionable • Bought off-the-shelf for immediate wear
Methods of Construction • Hand-tied or hand-knotted wigs made by *individual strands of hair • *knotting them with a needle • Done around the front hairline and the top of the head • Has a natural, realistic look • Combed in almost any direction
Hand-tied synthetic wig $249.00 Machine made-notice length difference $105.00 Jordon - Handtied Synthetic Wig - Estetica Designs #123 https:/.../shop/files/master/d_2909.jpg
Semi-hand-tied wigs • Combination of synthetic hair and hand-tied human hair • Reasonably priced • Natural appearance • Good durability www.wigs.uk.net/.../Ella_HH_1_thm.JPG
Machine-made wigs • Least expensive • Restricts other styling options • Even after shampooing the style returns • Wig construction will determine the direction in which you style the hair • Machine-made wigs offer no versatility www.todaystylist.com/wig_cap_wefted.gif
Taking Wig Measurements • Use soft tape measure • Close to the head without pressure • Keep a written record of head measurements • * forward a copy to the wig dealer of manufacturer • Include: hair shade, quality of hair, length of hair, and type of hair part and pattern
Ready-to-wear • *no measuring is required Adjustable www.zarawigs.com/.../gloss-adjustable-tabs.jpg
Blocking the Wig • Block is a head shaped form • Canvas covered or Styrofoam • Secured for fitting, cleaning, coloring, and styling www.alanwhite-anthology.com/.../4092a526cb.jpg www.larocks.com/clown/images/wigblockL.jpg
Pin with T-shaped pins at: • *Temples • *Above the ear • *Each corner of the nape
Putting on the Wig • Instructing the client • *securing her hair under the cap • *flat and even • ***Use hair wrap or PIN CURLS • If wig does not fit properly • *vertical tuck and sew • Sewing the wig to create a customized fit is a highly specialized art
Cutting the Wig • Your goal-make the hair look more realistic • Taper the ends • The more solid, the more unnatural • Same sectioning and elevations as on a real head of hair • Cut free-form on dry hair www.figure.fm/cgm/ecommerce/figure/images/lar...
Wig is placed on block for cutting • Comb-out and finishing touches-done on the client’s head • Free-form cutting • Vertical sections • *create lightness • Diagonal sections • *create rounder beveled edges • Horizontal sections • *build heavier weight
Cutting small sections • *observe how the hair falls • Done on dry hair • See how the hair will fall • Razor, thinning shears, standard shears • *tapering methods only
Styling the Wig • Handle gently • Human hair, set the styling tool on low heat • Do not pull • Use brushes with natural boar-bristles • Synthetic brushes that have smooth, rounded plastic teeth www.marieclaire.com/.../remix.6_11_06-lg.jpg hair-skin-sun.com/media/catalog/product/cache...
Be gentle • Use a block for all coloring, perming, setting, and basic cut outlining • Finishing touches-on the client’s head • Making a wig look believable is very challenging • Truly an art form
Most convincing area • *crown, part and the hairline • General rule: • *follow the direction of the knotting and weave
Styling Tips for the Hairline • Styling products-for color-treated hair • Backcomb gently around the hairline • Release the client’s hair around the hairline • Wind test • *gently blowdry around the client’s set at cool and low • *observe how the hairline looks
Styling: • *do not make it look perfect • *use your hands • *do not plaster the hair down www.hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com/buy-wigs... www.wigsforwomenonline.com/wig7.jpg www.beautytrends.com/images/dept_ts.jpg
Cleaning the Wig • Always follow manufacturer’s instructions • Use gentle shampoo for color-treated hair • Avoid harsh/dandruff shampoos www.cocoswigboutique.com/store/images/P/Syn%2... www.ehairexperts.com/.../2009/04/wash.jpg
Coloring Wigs and Extensions • Synthetic haircolors • *standardized 70 colors • Color range from black to palest blonde • White Yak hair add fantasy colors • To custom-color the hair • *check with the manufacturer
The principles that guide the coloring of natural hair are applied to the art of coloring wigs and hair extensions • Check to see if the cuticle is intact • If absent • *very porous • *will react to color in an extreme manner • Strand test