Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions

1. Chapter 19Wigs and Hair Additions

2. “Make a game of finding something positive in every situation. Ninety-five percent of your emotions are determined by how you interpret events to yourself.”– Brian Tracy

3. Objectives Explain the differences between human hair wigs and synthetic wigs. Describe the two basic categories of wigs. Describe the various types of hairpieces and their uses. Explain several different methods of attaching extensions.

4. Important Role in Fashion Working with wigs and hair additions can be either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field. Most clients buy wigs off the shelf or on the Internet. Wigs are rarely custom fitted today. Toupees are often custom fitted.

5. Range of Hair Additions Hair additions range from clip-ons such as ponytails, chignons, and bangs to elaborately applied extensions in which strands are attached individually. Single strands are hand-tied onto individual strands of natural hair (which requires specialized training).

6. Wigs Human hair test Human hair advantages More realistic Greater durability Same styling and maintenance as natural hair

7. Disadvantages of Human Hair Climate reactions Required resetting after shampooing Oxidizing color Breaking and splitting hair

8. Synthetic Hair Advantages Strength and durability Great value Pre-set style and texture Almost unlimited color selection No fading or oxidizing with sun exposure

9. Synthetic Disadvantages Low tolerance to extreme heat Traditional haircolor not recommended for Unnatural shine and thickness Correlation between price and quality

10. Quality and Cost of Human Hair Top of line: European Second: Indian and Asian Third: mixture of human and animal hair Fourth: human hair mixed with synthetic hair

11. Wig Selection Questions What is it made of? Natural or artificially colored? What is the grade of strength, elasticity, and porosity? Is the cuticle intact? Is it fallen hair?

12. Is it tangle free? What is the condition? Does color match client’s? Can it be permed? Will it last for four to six months? Wig Selection Questions (continued)

13. Wig Defined An artificial covering for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair. A wig completely conceals 100 percent of the natural hair.

14. Hair Addition Defined A hairpiece or small wig used to cover the top or crown of the head, or a hair attachment of some sort

15. Types of Wigs Cap: often hand-knotted Capless: machine-made Light and comfortable Allow scalp to breathe Ready for immediate wear

16. Construction Methods Hand-tied or hand-knotted Semi-hand-tied Machine-made

17. Taking Measurements Each manufacturer has its own form to fill out that notes the required measurements. Follow those specifications using a soft measuring tape.

18. Blocking the Wig A block is a head-shaped form usually made of canvas-covered cork or styrofoam. It is used for fitting, coloring, and sometimes styling. Six sizes, ranging from 20 to 22 inches Swivel clamp: used to hold block, allowing for greater control when styling

19. Putting On and Sizing Wig Secure hair Shorten wig from front to nape (horizontal tuck) Shorten wig in back (vertical tuck)

20. Wig Tools and Implements Boar-bristle brush Soft measuring tape Duckbill clips Hair and bobby pins Neck strip Specialized needle and thread Specialized products T-pins Wig block Wig caps

21. Toupee Tools Block Clips Specialized adhesive Specialized needle and thread Specialized tape T-pins

22. Cutting the Wig Objective: to make hair look realistic Taper ends to make shape look less solid.

23. Basic Cutting Methods Cut on head block. Comb out and finish on client. Free-form cutting

24. Practice cutting. Begin with shadow cut. Cut second wig dry. Repeat exercise with other tools. Basic Cutting Methods (continued)

25. Styling the Wig Use low heat. Treat gently and kindly. Use soft-bristle brushes. Use block for coloring, perming, setting, and basic cut outline.

26. Styling Tips for Hairline Choose products carefully. Backcomb gently. Blend client’s hair into wig hair. Employ wind test. Create little imperfections.

27. Wig Cleaning Follow manufacturer’s directions. Use gentle, acid-balanced product. Avoid sulfur-based or dandruff shampoos.

28. Coloring Wigs and Hair Additions Color rings: 70 colors, from black to pale blonde Range from black to pale blonde Most common color level: 1 White yak hair for fantasy colors Check cuticle Always strand test Conduct regular color checks

29. Perming Wigs Perm human hair wigs only. Cover wig block. Pin securely to head form. Perm as normal.

30. Hairpieces 20 percent to 70 percent coverage Usually temporary (not worn at night)

31. Hairpiece Types Integrationhairpieces (natural hair is pulled through openings to blend with hairpiece) Toupees Fashion hairpieces

32. Toupees Temporary attachment Semipermanent attachment Custom designed

33. Fashion Hairpieces Wraparound ponytail

34. A cascade of curls attached with a comb Fashion Hairpieces (continued)

35. Hair wrap Fashion Hairpieces (continued)

36. Hair Extensions Determine length/thickness needed. Determine desired look and map it. Stay 1 inch away from hairline. Ensure base does not show. Match curl pattern. Fewer extensions needed for curly hair.

37. Professional Approach Safety for client’s hair Comfort Security Style and fashion

38. Braid-and-Sew Attachment Extensions are secured at base of client’s own hair by sewing. Hair is attached to an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow that serves as the track. Tracks may be positioned horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or along curved lines that follow the contours of the head. Fiber filler may be used to help grip the client’s hair and create a longer-lasting braid to attach weft.

39. Braid-and-Sew Attachment Procedure Partings Size of sections Hidden ends of braids Position tracks 1 inch behind hairline Blunt, custom-designed needle

40. Lock Stitch Cut thread and pass needle through weft. Create loop and pass needle through loop. Pull loop tight to lock stitch.

41. Double-Lock Stitch Duplicates lock stitch. Thread is wound around needle twice to create the double lock.

42. Overcast Stitch Pass needle under track and weft. Bring needle back over to make new stitch. Repeat stitch along track to end. Complete with lock stitch.

43. Braid-and-Sew Advantages Very safe Requires no special equipment

44. Bonding Procedure Section off hair at nape. Measure first weft. Lay weft on flat surface. Use consistent amount of adhesive.

45. Hold for 20 seconds. Blowdry to seal. Proceed to next section. Avoid working too close to crown. Perform patch test. Do not perform on damaged hair. Avoid exposure of wefts to oil. Avoid bonding to wefts 12 inches or longer. Bonding Procedure (continued)

46. Removing Bonding Dissolve adhesive bond with oil or bond remover. Technique can be used with loose hair or wefts that are cut into very small sections.

47. Bonding Advantages Affordable and timely Can be gently shampooed

48. Bonding Disadvantages Allergies to ingredients in adhesive Patch test Inappropriate for severely damaged hair Exposure to oils

49. Fusion Bonding Method Expensive and time consuming Harmonizes with natural hair Light and comfortable

50. Lasts up to four months Wrapping a keratin-based strip Extension strand under natural hair Fusion Bonding Method (continued)