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Understanding Ocean Waves: Anatomy, Types, and Effects

Explore the fascinating world of ocean waves in this detailed overview. Learn about key terms such as crest, trough, wavelength, and wave height. Discover how waves are formed and their movement through water, including the differences between deep-water and shallow-water waves. We delve into the impact of storms, including storm surges and tsunamis, which can be caused by natural disasters such as earthquakes or volcanic eruptions. Understanding these concepts is crucial for grasping the dynamics of our oceans.

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Understanding Ocean Waves: Anatomy, Types, and Effects

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  1. Chapter 14 Section 2 Ocean Waves Mrs. Mannel Earth Science

  2. Anatomy of a Wave • Crest – the highest point of a wave • Trough – the lowest point • Wavelength – the distance from crest to crest OR trough to trough • Wave height – vertical distance from crest to trough

  3. Wave Formation & Movement • http://www.onr.navy.mil/focus/ocean/motion/waves1.htm • The energy transferred through waves does not displace water, just the energy • The rising and falling of the water creates circular currents underneath the surface

  4. Types of Waves • Deep -water waves are waves that that move in water that is deeper than ½ of their wavelength • When the waves reach water that is shallower than ½ their wavelength, they turn into shallow-water waves

  5. Breakers and Surf • The area between the breaker zone and the shore is called the surf • Here is where the undertow is created

  6. Types of Waves • Open-ocean waves are sometimes called whitecaps because of their steep crests • They usually form in rough seas in the open ocean and typically do not last long • Swells are formed from calmer winds and have longer wavelengths

  7. Tsunamis • Tsunamis are typically formed from earthquakes, but can also happen as a result of volcanic eruptions, landslides, underwater explosions and meteor impacts • They can reach heights of 30 meters

  8. 2004 Tsunami • http://pubs.usgs.gov/circ/c1187/

  9. Storm Surges • A storm surge is a local rise in sea level as the result of strong winds created by hurricanes • The can reach heights of 8 meters • The storm surge that was created in Hurricane Katrina was around 8 m or 25 feet

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