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Chapter 14 Section 2 Ocean Waves

Chapter 14 Section 2 Ocean Waves. Mrs. Mannel Earth Science. Anatomy of a Wave. Crest – the highest point of a wave Trough – the lowest point Wavelength – the distance from crest to crest OR trough to trough Wave height – vertical distance from crest to trough.

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Chapter 14 Section 2 Ocean Waves

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  1. Chapter 14 Section 2 Ocean Waves Mrs. Mannel Earth Science

  2. Anatomy of a Wave • Crest – the highest point of a wave • Trough – the lowest point • Wavelength – the distance from crest to crest OR trough to trough • Wave height – vertical distance from crest to trough

  3. Wave Formation & Movement • http://www.onr.navy.mil/focus/ocean/motion/waves1.htm • The energy transferred through waves does not displace water, just the energy • The rising and falling of the water creates circular currents underneath the surface

  4. Types of Waves • Deep -water waves are waves that that move in water that is deeper than ½ of their wavelength • When the waves reach water that is shallower than ½ their wavelength, they turn into shallow-water waves

  5. Breakers and Surf • The area between the breaker zone and the shore is called the surf • Here is where the undertow is created

  6. Types of Waves • Open-ocean waves are sometimes called whitecaps because of their steep crests • They usually form in rough seas in the open ocean and typically do not last long • Swells are formed from calmer winds and have longer wavelengths

  7. Tsunamis • Tsunamis are typically formed from earthquakes, but can also happen as a result of volcanic eruptions, landslides, underwater explosions and meteor impacts • They can reach heights of 30 meters

  8. 2004 Tsunami • http://pubs.usgs.gov/circ/c1187/

  9. Storm Surges • A storm surge is a local rise in sea level as the result of strong winds created by hurricanes • The can reach heights of 8 meters • The storm surge that was created in Hurricane Katrina was around 8 m or 25 feet

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