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Made in Britain – Traditional and style in contemporary British fashion , by Mitchell Beazley
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Made in Britain – Traditional and style in contemporary British fashion, by Mitchell Beazley “The tradition of quality tailoring has become associated with British fashion in a unique way. Indeed the very idea of the suit, an outfit of matching jacket and trousers, is widely credited as being British.” “Tailoring became a way forward for women searching for comfortable and streamlined garments that broke away from the 19th century taste for fussy and the elaborate. For a generation of women at the end of the 19th century, tailor-made suits heralded the beginnings of a change in attitude and a new freedom. A move away from the dress, a suit offered the simple possibility of taking off the jacket and wearing a skirt and shirt - a practical and flexible alternative.”
History of British fashion; British Tailoring • Explores the different British design and styles • Insight of what types of fabrics were traditionally used • British heritage played a part in the reinvention of established British clothing companies • British tailoring was the beginning for womenswear's revolutionary change from the ‘fussy and elaborate’ dresses to the more ‘practical and flexible alternative’ tailor-made suits. • Shows how British traditions in fashion integrated from one country to another.
Coco Chanel • Adapted men’s clothing and tradition of English tailoring to create a new and more comfortable collection of clothing for women. • Chanel’s classic suits represented the new approach to fashion. They were simple, geometric cardigans worn over a short skirt. • It was essential that the cut and finish was of high quality and that British fabrics which were woven in Scotland was used to match it. • Brought English tailoring into Paris couture which in turn brought it to the Hollywood film industry due to the enormous international impact Parisian fashion has
Trousers began to move into women’s wardrobes as the trouser suit was adopted by some of Hollywood’s most famous female film stars. • As they became more and more popular, it was apparent that trouser suits needed to be adapted to fit the female form to create a more sophisticated and feminine look. • And as time went on, due to these Hollywood influences, British tailoring became more sought after. • The influence of British tailoring inspires new generations of fashion designers from around the world.
British tailoring now has evolved to become very flexible. • Designers have become more creative and reinvented British tailoring • They have made it so British tailoring is created and seen in a variety of different shapes and silhouettes
Mary Quant • British fashion icon • Known for promoting the miniskirt and hot pants during the 1960s • Designed simple tailored garments which gave a geometric boxed shape • Designs were made for the younger generation
Timothy Everest • Worked with designer Tommy Nutter who was best known for reinventing the Saville Row suit during the 1960s • Use of different cuts and styling creates a contemporary look to his designs
Patrick Grant • Creative director for Norton & Sons on Savile Row • Made clothes which were worn by public figures such as Alexander McQueen and Christian Louboutin • Known for simple designs and for quality garments with neat and crisp cuts
Vivienne Westwood • Combination of French styles (e.g. Red Label A/W 2014 exaggerates Dior’s New Look collection) and British heritages • Uses traditional British tailoring but alters it slightly • Makes her tailored designs seem more contemporary • Use of different cuts and fabrics
Throughout the decades British tailoring also helped reinvent some of the most famous brands. • These included traditional British clothing companies such as DAKS, Burburry, Mulberry and Austin Reed. • These brands wanted to keep their British heritage but also appeal to the younger generations. • They began to develop a wider appeal to international customers and to the younger generations • Their fashion forwardness was a combination of contemporary styles and British tailoring
Bibliography • Made in Britain • Glasgow School for Business and Society (2013), Savile Row designer and TV star appointed Honorary Professor [Online] Available from: http://www.gcu.ac.uk/gsbs/newsevents/news/article.php?id=58878 [Accessed Feb 2014] • Vogue (Unknown), Vogue Fashion, [Online] Available from: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ [Accessed Feb 2014] • Victoria & Albert Museum (Unknown), Vivienne Westwood designs, [Online] Available from: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/v/vivienne-westwood-designs/ [Accessed Feb 2014]
