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NUPSIG - New Understanding and Prediction of Storm Impacts on Gravel Beaches

This 3-year EPSRC funded project aims to collect field measurements and develop a model to accurately simulate swash and groundwater dynamics, sediment transport, and morphological change on gravel beaches. The project will provide new insights into gravel beach dynamics and valuable data for coastal change analysis. Field sites include Westward Ho!, Loe Bar, Slapton, Chesil, and more.

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NUPSIG - New Understanding and Prediction of Storm Impacts on Gravel Beaches

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  1. NUPSIG - New Understanding and Prediction of Storm Impacts on Gravel Beaches 11th October 2011by Mark Davidson

  2. New Understanding and Prediction of Storm Impacts on Gravel Beaches (NUPSIG) • 3 Year EPSRC funded project ; PU with Channel Coastal Observatory and HR Wallingford • Principal aims: • To collect field measurements of swash and groundwater dynamics, sediment transport and morphological response under storm and post-storm conditions • To use data collected to help modify, parameterise and calibrate the existing XBeach model to enable accurate simulation of swash and groundwater dynamics, sediment transport and morphological change on gravel beaches. • To validate and verify the XBeach model. • To develop a tool for end-users, based on the model for predicting berm formation, overtopping, overwashing and breaching of gravel beaches and barriers.

  3. Field Sites • 11 Gravel Sites across Southern England; • Westward Ho! • Loe Bar • Slapton • Chesil • Milford-on-sea • Hurst Spit • Hayling Island Shoreham Beach Pevensy Bay Folkestone Herne Bay

  4. Inter-site storm response • Analysis of historical data from all sites for specific storm events • New pre and post-storm surveys at all sites dependant on forecast conditions • Joint PU & Channel Coastal Observatory Survey requests • 2011 – 9th-15th September first significant storm event • Pre and post-storm surveys at • Milford-on-sea- CCO • Hurst Spit- CCO • Westward Ho! - PU • Loe Bar- PU

  5. Site-specific storm response: Slapton Sands • Topographic Surveys since 2007 • Monthly & 2 x monthly • ARGUS station at Slapton • Shoreline evolution • Swash run-up dynamics Swash run-up Cross-shore distance (m) Time (sec)

  6. Detailed Gravel Response: Loe Bar • Detailed analysis of bed-level change, swash dynamics and groundwater • 1 Month experiment planned for March 2012 • Ultrasonic bed-level sensors measuring wave by wave change • Video image analysis of swash dynamics (previous slide) • Pressure sensors for groundwater dynamics

  7. Detailed Gravel Response: Loe Bar • Detailed analysis of bed-level change, swash dynamics and groundwater • 1 Month experiment planned for March 2012 • Ultrasonic bed-level sensors measuring wave by wave change Elevation (m) Time (s) water Elevation (m) sand Time (hrs)

  8. Summary (NUPSIG - New Understanding and Prediction of Storm Impacts on Gravel Beaches) • Gain new insight into gravel beach dynamics • Utilise new and historic data sets for coastal change on gravel beaches • Intensive field measurements at Loe Bar • Development of X-Beach model

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