1. 1st Progress Meeting INESCOP PROJECT PROGRESS & PLANNED ACTIVITIES LIFE 12 ENV/IT/352 Santa Croce Sull’ Arno BIOKIMICA 13rd June 2014 Mercedes Roig Joaquín Ferrer INESCOP 1

2. First steps taken by INESCOP 2

3. B1. Demonstration of use of commercialmetal -free acid dyes on leather dyeing Objective: Obtain leathers dyed with different commercial metal-free acid dyes, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes evaluation Tasks: • Selection of commercial metal-free acid dyes: 15 monochromatic samples + 10 combinated samples • Definition of the leather post-tanning process: neutralization, retanning, fatliquoring and dyein • Dyeing test at laboratory level • Evaluation of dyeing baths exhaustion by UV-V Espectroscopy Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP

4. Test & Results control sheets • Test reference • Type of leather and pre-dyeing treatment • Tests on leather: • Fastness properties • Physical test • Test on residual baths

5. Leather pre-dyeing treatment

6. Laboratory level dyeing test

7. Dyeing baths exhaustion (UV-V Espectroscopy)

8. B2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with metal-free acid dyes Objective: Evaluate properties of commercial metal-free acid dyes in the leather dyeing process, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation Tasks: • Dye fastness evaluation throuht standard fastness test: fastness to rubbing (wet and dry), light, PVC migration, water, perspiration and washing • Physical properties: tensile strebght, resistance to wear and resistance to heat Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP

9. Fastness to rubbing (dry/wet)

10. Rubbing fastness results 10

11. Fastness to light

12. Fastness to PVC migration / water spotting

13. Fastness to water / perspiration

14. Fastness to water results 14

15. Fastness to washing

16. C1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture Objective: Quantify and evaluate the environmental impact of dyeing residual bath which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation Tasks: Chemical analysis of dyeing residual bath by means of standard methods: COD, BOD and biodegradability Responsible: INESCOP

17. COD & BOD results

18. Biodegradability results (BOD/COD)

19. Thanks for your attention