PHOTOGRAPHY extended media MA. Vesna Srnić
Contents • A brief history of photography • Agency “Magnum” • Fashion photography • “High-fashion model look” • Erotic photography • Photography as a part of installation
Invented in 1839 (daguerrotype) Photorealism: artists almost “lost their jobs” (photo.portraits-quicker, cheaper) 1920´s photography became creative media Laslo Moholy-Nagy imports it at “Bauhaus” (art school, Germany) Effort-experimental and abstract visual expression Photomontages creators: Kurt Schwiters, El Lissitzky, Willi Baumeister, Max Ernst Man Ray makes photograms and uses solarization A brief history of photography • Henri Cartier-Bresson, “Place de l'Europe. Gare Saint Lazare”, Paris, 1932 (cover photo from the book “On Photography”, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1977)
1940´s and 50´s: pure photography and naturalism (Bauhaus) 1960´s Robert Rauschenberg creates complex combined technics Interventions: scratching and painting on emulsion; colouring negatives; solarisation;christalisation Combined technics and practice of conceptual and post-conceptual age (1970´s and 80´s) Željko Jerman, interventions on photo paper, 1975
Huge influence on contemporary photography:”Magnum” (US) -Edward Weston (“Pepper”,1930), Henri Cartier Bresson, Robert Capa, David Seymour Documentary photo., still nature, portraits, landscapes Agency “Magnum” E.Weston,”Pepper”,1930 (Susan Sontag, photo from the book “On Photography”, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1977)
Fashion photography Richard Avedon,Irving Penn (tend to atelier or studio ambience) After 1945 in US: Englishmen introduce natural ambience, and gather around “Vogue” magazine-Helmuth Newton, David Montgomery, David Bailey • Richard Avedon: “Dovima with elephants”, Evening dress by Christian Dior, Paris, 1955 (photo from http://www.artnet.fr/)
“High-fashion model look” • /www.vogue.co.uk/ • Fashion photograph seeks: transformation, acting ability and photogenie (mental picture as autoerotic capacity) • Top models: Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Cindy Craford, Claudia Schiffer • Advertisment photography very often includes fashion, erotics and humorous aspects • Christian Dior, “Flamenco”, 2003 (model: Adina Fohlin) • (http://www.vogue.co.uk) • Elie Saab, • “Vogue”, 2003 • (model: Karolina Kurkova) • (http://www.vogue.co.uk)
The best creators and fashion houses: Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurant, Donna Karan, Viviane Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gucci, Givenchy, Rudolph Valentino,Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Prada itd.
Contemporary photography: stresses sexuality as total denudeness Not as Nude any more, it is without emphasised proportionsand transcendence, just as nakedness, sex affiliation, it emphasises one`s own sex favorisation Erotic photography • Stephan Lupino: COCO, 1989 (Sexualy confused person) (photo: Courtesy of the Artist)
Croatian "Mapplethorpe", the world famous photographer Stephan Lupino: "Tina & fish" (1995)- is also a "camp", because Tina wears glass bra, two circular aquariums with fish, but without irony, here the woman is simply eroticly feminine and selfsufficient. • Stefan Lupino: “Tina&Fish”, 1995.
Photography as a part of installation • Ambiguity of woman individuum is artisticly presented in Croatian artist Vlasta Delimar`s opus (installation “No name", 1993) • Personal appearance strenghtens her not only as sexualy conscious artist, but as mother, lover,wife, housewife, saint as well... • Installation "No name", 1993 ( mirror, photography,paint, textile) (Photo: Courtesy of the Artist)