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Woven Fabric Analysis

Woven Fabric Analysis. Dr. Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing. What you can find from a woven fabric. Believe it or not, you can find at least ten items from a piece of fabric. What are they?. Information from a woven fabric. Weave (structure)

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Woven Fabric Analysis

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  1. Woven Fabric Analysis Dr. Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing

  2. What you can find from a woven fabric • Believe it or not, you can find at least ten items from a piece of fabric. • What are they?

  3. Information from a woven fabric • Weave (structure) • Order of coloring in warp and weft (if applicable) • Sett – ends (warp) and picks (weft) per cm • Yarn particulars • Counts (tex) • Twist per cm • S or Z twist • Single or fold yarn

  4. Information from a woven fabric (2) • Crimp% in warp and weft • Width of warp in reed • Warp length for a given finished fabric length (m) • Weight of fabric per unit area (gm/sq. m) • Type of material for both warp and weft • Type of finishing applied • Other factors: tensile strength, resistance to abrasion, drape, shower resistance, color fastness

  5. Face and back of woven fabric • In defining which is the face or back of woven fabric, it is mainly accorded to type of material, yarn count, arranging of yarn, dyeing and printing, weave pattern, finishing effect. Typical for fabric surface are: • Smoother; • Soft handle; • The face with solid jacquard pattern, pattern weave or printed weave • It is always with higher warp float proportion of fabric • Fabric with special effects, the effects usually appears on the face.

  6. Distinguish of warp and weft (1)

  7. Distinguish of warp and weft (2)

  8. Finding crimp% and yarn count • Crimp%=[(extended length) – (sample length) x100%] ÷ (sample length) • For yarn count, it is determined through the weight of specific length and then calculate the count. • Yarn count (tex) = yarn weight (gm) per 1000 meter.

  9. Yarn count (tex)Calculation • Total length= no. of yarn sample x length of each sample • Weight of these samples=by directed weight and unit in gm. • Weight of 1 km in length = by calculation in gm • Yarn count= weight in 1 km in length and unit in tex • Example: • No of yarn sample taken=12 • Length of each yarn sample=6 cm • Total yarn length=(12x6)÷100 m =0.72m • Weight of these samples =0.060gm • Weight of 1 km in length=(1000 x 0.06)÷0.72 =83.3gm • Therefore, yarn count =83.3 tex

  10. Fabric WeightCalculation • This is done by calculation of fabric size 1 m x 1 m. • The formula for warp weight: • Warp weight (gm/sq m.) = [ends/cm x 100 x tex x (1+warp crimp%)] ÷ 1000 • The formula for weft weight: • Weft weight (gm/sq m.) = [picks/cm x 100 x tex x (1+weft crimp%)] ÷ 1000 • Fabric Weight (gm/sq. m) = warp weight + weft weight

  11. Fabric weight classification

  12. Satin & Sateen Weaves • In these weaves, the warp faced ones are termed as “satin” and those of weft faced are termed as “sateen” weave. • For either one, the interlacing points of two adjacent threads are so arranged that each only has one interlacing point and then floats across the width of the repeat. • The results with a maximum degree of lustre and smoothness of no prominent weave features. • Also, such arrangement of interlacing points of threads with each other lets them with much freedom, and therefore, more close packing of threads is possible

  13. Sateen of repeat number of 8 Which moves number is not possible, why?

  14. Sateen Weave • For M=1 and 7, weaves of opposite twill lines are formed • For M=2,4, and 6, some threads are without any interlacing points • For M=3 and 5, regular sateen weaves, with the above mentioned features are formed.

  15. Rules for the Move Number of Sateen Weave • Some rules should be followed in the construction of regular satin or sateen weaves: • The selected move number should not be either one or one less than repeat number of weave; or with a common factor of the repeat number

  16. Examples of Sateen Move Number

  17. Sateen Repeat NumberPossible Move Number Repeat =5, Possible M=2 and3 Repeat =7, Possible move M=2,3,4 or 5

  18. Sateen Repeat NumberPossible Move Number Repeat=9, M=2, 4 or 5 Repeat=10, M=3 or 7 Repeat=11, M=3 or 7

  19. Irregular Satin & Sateen

  20. Discussion • What information you can have from a piece of woven fabric? • Discuss the sateen weave and the rules for sateen movement?

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