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Codes Conventions: Fashion

7/18/2012. NEW271Y. 2. Term Test. Take homeClose analysisApproximately 1000 wdsQuestion available Nov. 29Due: last class, 6 Dec. 2004, 5:00 pmNo extensions or lates. 7/18/2012. NEW271Y. 3. Mid-Term Review. Representation = 1 of central practices that produce cultureCulture = re shared meanin

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Codes Conventions: Fashion

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    1. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 1 Codes & Conventions: Fashion

    2. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 2 Term Test Take home Close analysis Approximately 1000 wds Question available Nov. 29 Due: last class, 6 Dec. 2004, 5:00 pm No extensions or lates

    3. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 3 Mid-Term Review Representation = 1 of central practices that produce culture Culture = re shared meanings meaning produced & exchanged thru lang – repository of cult values & meanings representational system – uses signs & symbols) to represent concepts, ideas, feelings representational systems as productive of culture = “symbolic order” meanings not already there, or attributes of things always constructed & therefore always in process active ongoing cultural activity - always implicated with issues of power, control, regulation

    4. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 4 Codes & Conventions representational systems construct cultural meanings thru codes & conventions conventions defined by repetition – vs. sporadic meanings more or less arbitrary symbolic order – cultural discourse – systems of representation meaningful or conventional through repetition, learning, cultural reinforcement

    5. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 5 Codes Codes = signs - signify specific instances of conventional meaning organization of signs - relate to each other thru coding systems systems of references, associations, connotations fashion system also has highly articulated rules & codes

    6. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 6 Fragments of a Fashionable Discourse history of gender differences in fashion central argument: gender replaced class as primary marker in clothing 200 yrs ago, fashion codes emphasized economic & social hierarchies

    7. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 7 Great Masculine Renunciation 15th – 17th c., ornate dress was class (not gender) prerogative – protected by law mark of aristocratic power & privilege

    8. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 8 16th century

    9. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 9 17th century

    10. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 10 18th century fashion

    11. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 11 Industrial revolution rise of middle class emphasis on industry Previously, idleness as sign of wealth 19th c., wealth ass. top-management work, factory ownership, etc sartorial sobriety

    12. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 12 19th century woman Leisure - her job became display of husband’s wealth thru clothing psychic consequences of changes - implications for sexual diff integrate M members across classes

    13. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 13 Silverman’s Goal questioning of cultural/ideological assumptions about gender differences fem subject associated with to-be-looked-at-ness masc subject with scopophilia (pleasure in looking) challenges this assumption

    14. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 14 Looking/being looked at construction of subjectivity mirror phase Self recognition distinction between self & other - fundamental to subjectivity or identity play of looking & being looked at

    15. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 15 Dress & adornment circuit of visual exchange make human body culturally visible influence upon bodies conventional M dress effaced nearly everything - verticality - power

    16. 7/18/2012 NEW271Y 16 Feminine dress frequent & dramatic changes shifting of erotic gravity - whole body sexualised fashion constructs “new” F body each year

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