1 / 201

Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services

Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services. A blast from the past. pics.livejournal.com/.../pic/0003cc97/s320x240. www.scott.k12.va.us/rita/51757_2.JPG. www.scott.k12.va.us/rita/51757_2.JPG. Chemical texture services gives the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave pattern

orla-herring
Download Presentation

Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services

An Image/Link below is provided (as is) to download presentation Download Policy: Content on the Website is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use and may not be sold / licensed / shared on other websites without getting consent from its author. Content is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use only. Download presentation by click this link. While downloading, if for some reason you are not able to download a presentation, the publisher may have deleted the file from their server. During download, if you can't get a presentation, the file might be deleted by the publisher.

E N D

Presentation Transcript

  1. Chapter 20 Chemical Texture Services A blast from the past

  2. pics.livejournal.com/.../pic/0003cc97/s320x240 www.scott.k12.va.us/rita/51757_2.JPG www.scott.k12.va.us/rita/51757_2.JPG

  3. Chemical texture services gives the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave pattern *offers variety of styling options ~used to curl straight hair ~straighten overly curly hair ~soften coarse, straight hair

  4. www.wisconsinhistory.org/.../archives/003095.asp trend911.com/wp-content/331.jpg all4women.co.za/files.php?file=HairCare1_1751... www.2009haircuts.info/.../2008/10/44.jpeg

  5. Add: • First perm recorded 4000 b.c. • First recorded perm given: • Wrapped over crudely made wooden rollers • Mixture of soil and water • Baked in sun • All day

  6. Texture services include: *Permanent waving *Relaxing *Curl Reforming (soft curl permanents) The Structure of Hair * involves chemically and physically changing the structure of hair

  7. The Cuticle *tough exterior layer *protects the hair from damage *chemicals must penetrate cuticle -into cortex www.hairfinder.com/hairquestions/hairporosity.jpg

  8. The Cortex *middle layer of the hair *responsible for strength and elasticity *breaking side bonds -changes the natural wave www.hairdressersus.com/micro/Image10b.jpg www.hairflatiron.org/.../damaged_hair_41220.gif

  9. Shows how prescription and recreational drugs get trapped in the cortex. Even an aspirin can affect the outcome of PW Blood supply Psychemedics.com

  10. The Medulla *innermost layer -called pith or core *does not play a role in texture services www.tardigrade.us/stfmel70.jpg

  11. Importance of pH in Texture Services *potential hydrogen *measures acidity and alkalinity *range from 0-14 7 is neutral below 7 is acidic Above 7 is alkaline 4.bp.blogspot.com/.../HellaciousHair222.jpg

  12. Chemical texturizers: • *raise the pH to soften and swell the hair • lifts the cuticle • allows solution to reach the cortex • *coarse, resistant hair requires a highly alkaline chemical solution www.pgbeautyscience.com/.../Damage%2016.jpg

  13. *porous, damaged, or chemically treated hair requires a less alkaline solution newsimg.bbc.co.uk/.../_44474174_hair18_416.jpg

  14. Basic Building Blocks of Hair Amino acids: *compound of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen Add: 18 amino acids www.protocolsupplements.com/Sports-Performanc...

  15. Peptide bonds (end bonds) *link amino acids together *form polypeptide chain Polypeptide chains *long chains of amino acids web.virginia.edu/.../Images/8883n05_02.jpg images.stanzapub.com/readers/2008/09/28/1_6.png

  16. Keratin proteins • *long coiled polypeptide chains • Side bonds • *disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds www.foundationz.co.uk/.../hair_bonds.gif

  17. Keratin protein • *long chains of amino acids linked together end to end • Chemical bonds linking amino acids together • *peptide bonds • *end bonds • Chains of amino acids are called • polypeptides www.codefun.com/Images/Genetic/tRNA/image004.jpg

  18. Side Bonds • Cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains • *elasticity and strength • ~Disulfide bonds • ~Salt bonds • ~Hydrogen bonds

  19. Altering these side bonds makes: • ~wet setting • ~thermal styling • ~permanent waving • ~soft curl permanents • ~chemical hair relaxing possible farm2.static.flickr.com/1137/565739214_26d62e... www.caribehair.com/geovannaperm1.jpg

  20. Disulfide Bonds *strong chemical side bond *only broken by chemicals -not heat or water *chemical and physical changes -make PW, curl re-forming, and relaxing possible

  21. http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/1998-05/892764277.Ch.r.htmlhttp://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/1998-05/892764277.Ch.r.html *strongest of three *accounts for one-third of hair’s overall strength

  22. Add: Disulfide bonds add strength to the keratin protein Disulfide bonds must be broken down during the perming process

  23. Salt Bonds *weak physical side bonds *easily broken by changes in pH *re-form when the pH returns to normal *accounts for one-third of hair’s overall strength www.pgbeautyscience.com/.../twoh/v3/Pump-3.jpg

  24. Hydrogen Bonds *weak side bonds *easily broken by water or heat wet setting/thermal styling *re-form as hair dries or cools *accounts for one-third of hair’s overall strength

  25. FYI: Wet set-physical change *breaking bonds *wetting hair/rolling on rollers *re-forms when hair is dry www.pgbeautyscience.com/.../twoh/v3/Perm-6.jpg

  26. Not in Book: Do not add, just listen The Client Consultation *most important part *first: -determine exactly what the client expects -what is possible *nothing will compensate for a lack of communication

  27. Ask open-ended questions • -find out what results are expected • What type of coloring product is used • -metallic salts/not on permed hair http://www.helpusendhunger.org/perms411dosanddonts/

  28. Look at pictures • -desired style • Previous texture services • -likes • -dislikes • Currently styles his/her hair • -discuss any changes resulting from the texture service 1.bp.blogspot.com/.../s400/hair+stylist.jpg

  29. Determine finished hairstyle • -haircut • -degree of curl or relaxing • Evaluate • -condition • -texture • -wave pattern • Fill out record card www.totalcosmetology.com/Images/barbers.jpg

  30. Results of spiral conventional perm with white rods z.about.com/d/womenshair/1/0/-/0/-/-/IMG_3058.JPG z.about.com/.../1/0/R/-/-/-/permafter.JPG www.wellpromo.com/upload/upimg23/Spiral-Perm-...

  31. Permanent Waving *two step process 1. Physical change -wrapping 2. Chemical change -PW solution -neutralizer media3.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/phot... cdn-write.demandstudios.com/.../80/5/20585.jpeg

  32. The Perm Wrap • Wet set versus PW • -difference: PW breaks the disulfide bonds • Size, shape, and type of curl = • size, shape, and type of rod • End of story!!!!!

  33. The correct perm rod and wrapping method=successful PW • ***selection of solution • ***What you wrap is what you get • Q. Without a perm tool, can I achieve a curl in the hair if the PW solution is applied to just the natural hair? Hair wrapped on a tongue depressor Q. What curl pattern can we expect to achieve ?

  34. Types of Rods • Concave rods • smaller diameter in the center • larger diameter on the ends • tighter curl in center • (I feel these follow the shape of the head better) stylors.com

  35. Straight rods *equal entire length *uniform curl *short rods -small awkward sections Hairfinder.com

  36. Add: • Selection of rod size • Amount of curl desired • Physical characteristics of the hair • -length • -texture • -elasticity

  37. Other Perm Tools • Soft bender rods • *12” long • *uniform diameter • *bent into almost any shape www.metroasis.com/suepermx.jpg Toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net

  38. Getsomehairapy.wordpress.com Beautystore.com Toolboxes.flexiblelearning.net

  39. Loop rod or Circle rod *12” long *uniform curl ***spiral ***extremely long hair Advanceddesigner.com Hairfinder.com

  40. Today: • Many perms are performed with • Large rollers • Rag rollers • Other tools to achieve large, loose curls • *large tools for root perms • *create lift and volume without curls

  41. Add: • Pre-perm analysis determines: • Is the hair in good condition • 2. Which perm product should be used • 3. Which perm wrapping technique and rod/parting sizes to use

  42. End Papers * end wraps *absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair (protects) *extends beyond ends of hair -fishhooks (demo) *ends smooth and straight (covered) -fried ends

  43. Techniques: Double flat wrap *use while in school *most control over ends *evenly distributed Single flat wrap *does not protect ends *use only as a third paper Demo each

  44. Bookend wrap -one paper folded over -use with short rods/short lengths -avoid bunching ends -keep hair in center

  45. Sectioning a Perm *sectioning into panels -size, shape, and direction vary *then, divide into subsections/base sections *length and width of the rod being used Read “Here’s a Tip”

  46. *** Break the rule -11 perm rod PW Lasts about 2 months z.hubpages.com/u/1186366_f520.jpg colorperfectsalon.com/images/Weav.JPG

  47. Base Placement • Position of rod to its base • On base • -45 degrees angle beyond perpendicular • -greater volume • -my preference • -can mark or break the hair…use picks www.schillingdouglas.com/images/perm_new.jpg

  48. Half off base- -90 degree angle -minimizes tension ***minimizes crispness of curl Off base -45 degrees below center (perpendicular) -least volume (scalp area-no curl) en.ask-schwarzkopf.com/content/image_path/125... i.ehow.com/.../5052200/209825-main_Thumb.jpg

  49. Base Direction *horizontally, vertically, or diagonally *backward, forward, or to one side *wrapping with the natural direction of hair growth causes less stress/less breakage -against hair growth “band” or breakage

  50. FYI: Not on Test • Direction of Hair Growth • Streams, whorls, and cowlicks • base direction • wrapping pattern • ***wrapping the hair in the opposite direction will help client manage an area better for about 2 months

More Related