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Making up a simple 3-gang box First, mark your cables before you place them into the box. If the cable is for power, either in or out, no mark is used. If the cable is to a light fixture, then use your strippers or cutters to ‘crimp’ the end of the cable to identify it’s location in the box.

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Presentation Transcript
slide1

Making up a simple 3-gang box

First, mark your cables before you place

them into the box.

If the cable is for power, either in or out,

no mark is used.

slide2

If the cable is to a light fixture, then use your strippers or cutters to ‘crimp’ the end of the cable to identify it’s location in the box.

For example, if the cable you just pulled to the switch box is the first switch from the door, then mark it with one ‘crimp’.

slide3

For the second, third, etc. switches, mark each cable with

the appropriate number of crimps to correspond with that

cable’s final location in the box.

slide4

If there are four or more switches in the box, switch legs

can be continued to be marked using Roman Numerals.

In this case, the cable is marked ‘17’.

slide5

Once all the cables are pulled to the switch location,

begin removing the sheaths and placing them into

the box. If you crimped the cables with enough

pressure, they will transfer on to the insulation.

slide6

As you insert the cables into the box and notice the

insulation is not crimped, you simply duplicate the

number of the crimps with ‘folds’ or ‘bends’ in the wire.

First switch

Second Switch

Third Switch

slide7

Once all the cables are in place, it’s time to start doing some actual make-up. I’ll use this 3-gang switch box in a bathroom as an example. There are 3 cables in the box, a 14/2 to feed power to the switches, a 14/2 that goes to the vanity light, and a 14/3 that goes to a fan/light combo.

slide8

The first thing I do is to push all the insulated wires to the top,

leaving the grounds along the bottom.

slide10

A Buchanan ground crimp then goes on….. Using the correct

tool for the job, not smashing it with a pair of linesmans!

slide11

The grounds are then pushed to the back of the box. There’s no reason to ever need to access them again.

slide12

Then I place one ground wire for each switch along the bottom of the box and fold it over.

slide17

I push the hot make-up to the back of the box next. Then, just like the ground wires, I put a hot wire at the bottom of the box for each switch.

slide18

I take the switch leg for the first switch (I always use the door opening as a basis for laying out switches) and wrap it around the other wires for that switch. If this was a 3-way, I’d wrap the common around the other 3.

slide19

Now that the wiring for the first switch is done, I fold the set of wires back into the box, in the same place that switch is going to go at trim time. The second switch leg is then wrapped around the other two wires for the next switch.

slide23

When done, every switch location has the wires needed for that particular switch, and no guess-work is needed to trim out. If troubleshooting needs to be done, everything is marked as to it’s purpose. No labels. No NM sheath.

No Sharpie lettering. Yet everything is identified.

slide24

Maybe not neat enough to go on the cover of an electrical magazine, but neat enough to do the job quickly and efficiently, not to mention safely.