1.02 Finishes

1. Apparel Development II Ms. Jessica Edwards 1.02 Finishes

2. Introduction When fabric first comes from the loom, it looks nothing like the finished fabric that you will see as a shirt, jacket, or towel. Many of the fabrics have no color. They are gray or off-white. The warp yarns have been stiffened to withstand the strain during weaving. The fabric may be limp, or fuzzy, or dull, or very shiny.

3. Introduction cont. How then are fabrics transformed into beautiful, colorful, and comfortable materials that you want to buy and wear? The answer is finishes.

4. Finishing Process • Finishes are any special treatments that are applied to fabrics. • Finishes can be added to reduce the undesirable characteristics or to improve the desirable ones. • Fabric finishes may be permanent or temporary.

5. Color and Design Finishes • When fabric first comes from the loom, it is called gray goods. Dyeing Textiles -Dyes are compounds that penetrate and color fibers. -Stock dyeing – natural fibers can be dyed before being spun into yarns Solution dyeing – dye is added to the chemical solution before it is forced through spinnerets

6. -Yarn dyeing – yarns are dyed before they are woven or knitted into fabric; used for plaids, checks, and stripes -Piece dyeing – fabric is dyed after being woven or knitted -Product dyeing – fabric is cut and sewn into the finished product, then the entire garment or item is dyed

7. Colorfastness The term colorfast means that the color in the fabric will not change. • Will not fade from washing, chlorine in a pool, or exposure to sunlight • Depends on the type of dye, chemical structure of the fiber, and the method of application • Most dyes are not colorfast to everything

8. May be affected by washing, dry cleaning, sunlight, or perspiration • May crock, or rub off onto your skin or other clothing • Fastness to sunlight is important for draperies, upholstery, and carpets. What would swimwear need to be colorfast to?

9. Printing Textiles Printing involves transferring color to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern or design. Four of the most common printing methods: • Roller printing • Screen printing • Rotary screen printing • Heat transfer printing

10. Texture and Performance Finishes A fabrics texture and hand can be improved with finishing processes. Finishes are also used to improve the performance of fabrics. Types of Texture Finishes • Calendering – improves luster • Glazing – produces a high polish or glaze on the surface of the fabric

11. Napping – raises the short fiber ends of staple yarns to create a soft, fuzzy surface; flannel is a napped fabric • Lustering – treated with heat to add luster • Beetling – cotton or linen fabrics are flattened to fill out the weave and add luster • Delustering – chemicals reduce gloss • Embossing – creates raised design on surface

12. Cire’ – super glossy finish obtained by applying wax or some other substance • Moire’ – creates a watered or wavy pattern; used for evening wear • Sizing – starches or resins are assed for extra body; temporary finish Types of Performance Finishes • Crease resistance and wrinkle resistance

13. Durable press • Shrinkage control • Mercerization • Stain and spot resistance • Soil release • Water repellent and waterproof • Antistatic • Flame-retardant • Antibacterial

14. Mildew resistance • Moth resistance