The design cycle Different parts of the textiles product industry work to different deadlines: Colourists: 24 months ahead Fabric designers: 18 months ahead Designers (clothes): 12 months ahead Seasons: Spring/Summer Autumn/Winter
COLOURIST • Typical work activities include: • resourcing colours and producing mood boards for designers to work from; • producing colour stories indicating the directional colour trends for fashion and textile ranges expected in the future; • adding specific expertise to forecasting the future trends of textile and fashion styles - such predictions are then published in prediction books for the fashion industry; • working alongside the fashion predictor.
Product design • Is concerned with: • Aesthetics • Ergonomics (applied to fit and fabric) • Construction method (stitch and seam types/ fusible resins) • Cost • Selling prices Design starts as an open process and develops into solving defined problems.
The Role of the designer • Designers may undertake all or some of these activities, depending on the size of the company. • Forecasting • Range planning • Designing • Pattern drafting • Sample making • A designer needs to understand: • Characteristics of fabrics • Source and use modern fabrics • Adapt styles for different sizes • Develop a product to a price point (budgeting)
forecasting • Taking into consideration the trends for; • Fabrics, colour and texture • Silhouette • Styles
Range Planning • Knowing and understanding the difference between: • Staple products. (men’s underwear or school uniforms) • Classic products (men’s shirts or jeans) • Styled products (colour or fabric is frequently change) • Fashion products (fads) • (Frequent and extreme change short runs, quick response to the market)
Designing (including CAD) • Understand and applying knowledge to: • Fulfil design briefs • Using mood boards • Sketching initial ideas • To develop an idea • Testing the feasibility of designed product against the spec • Draft working drawings
Pattern making (CAD/CAM) • Understand and applying knowledge to: • Draft flat patterns using blocks and styles • Producing a working pattern to trial the style • Drape/ model or toile a design concept • Adapt a pattern and test it • Produce a final pattern
Sample making • Understand and applying knowledge to: • Work to a specification sheet • Produce a sample garment
Fashion in the shops Haute Couture sets the trends with the fashion shows twice a year such ‘London fashion week’. These styles are then translated into products which will actually sell and are affordable.
Designer • Very high cost • High quality • Fashion RTW Influenced by fabric, colour and market trends, value issues, performance fabrics, new materials Sets and follows trends £500-£5000
Designer Diffusion line • High cost • High Quality • Ready to wear (RTW) Influenced by fabric, colour and market trends, value issues, performance fabrics, new materials and technology Sets and follows trends £100-£500
Designer Ready to Wear For the high street • Medium cost • High quality • Fashion RTW Influenced by fabric, colour and market trends, value issues, performance fabrics, new materials Sets and follows trends £50-£250
Ready to wear • Affordable • Good quality • Fashion RTW Influenced by fabric, colour and market trends Follows trends £19.99-£75.00
Bespoke Influenced by fabric, colour and market trends Follows trends • Affordable • Good quality • Fashion RTW £250.00- £ 5000 How long is a piece of string?
Mass Production Influenced by fabric, colour and market trends • Reasonable cost • Range of qualities • Defined target markets • Range of styles Follows major marketable trends £5.00- £ 50.00 How long is a piece of string?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghtrwTLuoAI CAM application fabric cutting machine