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 AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 1

Effects of for threads in shoe-manufacturing. hydrophobic. or. WR-finish.  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 1. Factors of influence. Factors of influence to watertight seams:. material. needle. sewing thread. seam type.  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 2. Material. Material.

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 AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 1

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  1. Effects of for threads in shoe-manufacturing hydrophobic or WR-finish  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 1  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 1

  2. Factors of influence Factors of influence to watertight seams: material needle sewing thread seam type  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 2  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 2

  3. Material Material • leather, woven or even knitted fabrics • waterproofed • inserted or coated laminate or membrane  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 3  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 3

  4. Needle Needle • according to material type and thickness • for leather: round points (R, RG) or cutting points • for woven fabrics: round points (R, RG) • for knitted fabrics: ball points (SES/FFG or SUK/FG) • accordingto sewing thread strength  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 4  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 4

  5. Sewing threads Sewing threads • standard sewing thread polyester/polyester-corespun thread (SabaC): the surface of the sewing thread absorbs and soaks moisture under wet conditions polyester/cotton-corespun thread (Rasant): cotton fibers absorbs moisture and swells (? swelling fibers ?) polyester-continuous-multifilaments (Serafil): the surface of the sewing thread absorbs and soaks moisture under wet conditions • hydrophob finished sewing threadso called WR-finish (Water-Repellent) wicking and transport of moisture is delayed  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 5

  6. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads waterproofed leather surface needle thread bobbin thread leather  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 6

  7. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads water hits the surface  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 7

  8. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads Without WR-finish The thread soaks up water by the capillary action (wicking) … water stains appear„from inside out“ …and the leather soaks up the water around the stitching hole  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 8

  9. product without WR-finished sewing thread  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 9

  10. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads With WR-finish Due to the hydrophobic (water repellant) finish water isn't absorbed by the thread. The loop of needle and bobbin thread seals up the stitch hole.  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 10

  11. Put material with a seam into a frame and weight it with 1 liter water. Watch when the first drops of water appear on the undersurface of the material. „Trough test“ Trough test Note: The textile is put into the frame without any tension, there is no compression which is affected to the seams.  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 11

  12. Setup for the testing of water tightness  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 12

  13. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads Water penetration after few minutes: sewing thread without WR-finish: water runs through the stitch holes – it's been transported through the sewing thread due to the wicking water stain at the seams after approx. 3 minutes with sewing thread without WR-finish seam after approx. 3 minutes with sewing thread with WR-finish: no water stain  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 13

  14. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads water stain at the seams after approx. 10 minutes with sewing thread without WR-finish seam after approx. 10 minutes with sewing thread with WR-finish: no water stain  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 14

  15. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads Clearly noticeable: Water is been soaked up along the seam because of the wicking of the sewing thread Height of water rim at front and back side: The leather is much wetter inside than you can seen from the outside back side – already soaked up with water front side  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 15

  16. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads Example: Material: leather, approx. 1,7 mm thick (for hiking boots), surface waterproofed Sewing thread: Serafil 20 WR and Serafil 20 (standard) Sewing machine: Dürkopp Adler, type 767 Needle: NM 130 R Stitches / cm: 3 stitches / cm Result:  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 16

  17. Using standard sewing threads without WR-finish there is the building of drops and penetration of water after short time at the upright stitch holes. Joining seams stay waterproof, when their stitch holes are not in contact with water. Using sewing threads with WR-finish the penetration at the available material is delayed, so that a water tightness of 24 hours could be measured at this test. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 17

  18. Using WR-sewing threads the water penetration is delayed depending on the material. The more water tight the material, the better the water tightness of the seam. To be considered: needle as small as possible seam construction as „save“ as possible requirements: the material itself is as dense as possible. A 100% waterproof seam can only be achieved by additionally sealing with glue or fused tapes. Effects of WR-finish for sewing threads  AMANN GROUP – 2009 Page 18

  19. Herzlichen Dank für Ihr Interesse! • Merci beaucoup pour votre intérêt! • Thanks you very much for being interested! • Grazie mille per il Suo interesse! • Muito obrigado pelo seu interesse! • Спасибо за внимание • akujem Vám za pozornos ! • Muchas gracias por su interés! • Ilginize tesekkuer ederim ! AMANN GROUP 2010

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