Chapter 10. Waves and Tides. Anatomy of a Wave. What is a wave? - Transmission of energy through matter; matter moves back and forth or rotates, but then returns to its original position Three types of progressive waves:
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Waves and Tides
-Transmission of energy through matter; matter moves back and forth or rotates, but then returns to its original position
Both can exist at the same time!
-waves break when the height exceeds the wavelength by a certain ratio; the wave breaks as white caps
-results from sudden water displacement caused by a landslide, an iceberg falling into sea from a glacier, a volcanic eruption, or an earthquake (most common)
**All influence the tides!**
Tidal Currents: the daily tides create a current that flows into and out of bays, rivers, harbors, and other restricted places
-Inflow= flood current
-Outflow= slack current
Tidal Bore: when the incoming tide produces a wave that flows into a river, bay, or other relatively narrow area; also known as a true tidal wave that can be several meters high