Something Fishy this Way Comes: The How and Why of Garum

2. Something Fishy this Way Comes: The How and Why of Garum Lori Kissell

3. Garum • What is it? • How is it made? • Where/how is it traded? • How is it used? • Modern equivalents/descendants?

4. Garum – what is it? • OLD: garum, -i (n) a highly esteemed fish sauce, prepared originally from the garos(unknown fish) but later chiefly from the scomber or mackerel

5. Garum – what is it? • OLD:liquamen, -inis(n) [liquo + -men] a liquid fluid; (Spec., prob.) fish-sauce (garum) • OLD: muria, -ae (f) also muries, -ei [dub] – brine used for pickling

6. Garum – what is it? • OLD: muriaticus, -a, -um – soaked in brine, pickled, (Neut. Pl as sb) pickled fish

7. Garum – what is it? • Cited by everyone! • Varro • Horace • Celsius • Seneca • Petronius • Pliny the Elder • SextusPompeius Festus • Martial • Ulpius • Columella • Cato • Persius • Quintilian • FabiusPictor • CIL 15.4709 & 4.2592

8. Garum – how is it made? • Traditional: fish + sunshine + time = garum • Whole fish or offal only • Fatty fish (oily) preferred • Outdoors, then store in cool, dry place

14. Garum – how is it made? • Non-traditional: boil it first • To strain or not strain? • Store in fridge

15. Garum – how is it made? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mPX8dpKG48M in which a German foodie tries his hand at garum garum.umwblogs.org is a student project conducted over three months which documents with reports and pictures the beginnings of the liquefaction process

16. Garum – how is it made? • Recipes vary – all include fish and salt, but additional flavorings vary widely • Herbs, vinegar, honey, fish used all change the flavor • Favorite fish? Mackerel, sardines, anchovies, tunny, tuna or various combinations • Herbs? Parsley, garlic, pepper or local variations

17. Garum – how is it made? • Leave in sun one to three months, strain, store • Edible, but pungent, in one year • Five years – not so bad • Ten years – really nice!

18. Garum–where/ how is it traded? • Must have: Source of Fish • Mediterranean not rich in fish • Must have: Good water supply • Famous locations – Pompeii, Carthage, Lusitania, Baetican Spain, Clazomenae, Leptis Magna, Atlantic coasts of Morocco and Brittany, Black Sea region

22. Garum – where/how is it traded? • Transported in amphorae • Distinctive styles can source the garum • Barrels used, but little evidence remains

23. Dressel 1to 6: wine amphoras Dressel 1: Roman wine amphora, 129 B.C. to 13 A.D. Dressel 2: Roman wine amphora, 16 B.C. to 29 A.D. Dressel 3: Roman wine amphora, 28 to 146 A.D. Dressel 4: Roman wine amphora, 4 B.C. to 24 A.D. Dressel 5: Roman wine amphora, 12 B.C.. - holotype Dressel 6: Roman wine amphora, 36 A.D.- holotype Dressel 7,8,9,10,11: beticamphoras for salted fish (Hispanic) Dressel 8: 1st front century J.C. Dressel 12: betic amphora for salted fish (Andalusia) Dressel 13,14,15: beticamphoras for salted fish Dressel 20: oil amphora, betic, 2nd-3rd century A.D. Dressel 26,27: 3rd century A.D. and later

25. Garum – where/how is it traded? • Used locally, and traded throughout empire • Specialized in garum trade, or shipped with other goods (wine, oil, grain)

30. Garum–where/ how is it traded? • AulusUmbriciusScaurus, father and son, Pompeii • Major commodity in Pompeii, only one dedicated shop found (so far.)

39. Garum – how is it used? • Ubiquitous • Condiment

40. Garum – how is it used? • Ingredient

41. Garum – how is it used? • Cosmetics – remove unwanted hair and freckles

42. Garum – how is it used? • Medicine – dog bites, dysentery, ulcers, chronic diarrhea and constipation!

43. Garum – modern? • Umami

44. Garum – modern? • Asian/Pacific fish sauces • e.g. Nuoc Mam, Nam Pla

45. Garum – modern? • Worcestershire sauce • Lea & Perrins includes anchovy base!