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Our Natural Wine Guide

One of the simplest definitions of a natural wine is: nothing added, nothing taken away.<br>Although there is no legal definition of how a natural wine is made, there are a few principles that consistently abide to the basic idea that wine should be made in the vineyard, not the cellar: no added chemicals, no added sulfites (or just the bare minimal amount), no temperature control during fermentation, no added yeast, no fining or filtration, and no pesticides or herbicides in the vineyard.<br>By reducing the winemakeru2019s intervention to a minimum, what is left in the glass should be the purest expression of the grapes and the soil, not a manufactured product built scientifically to appeal to the mainstream palate. This often results in wines that can be cloudy and rustic in appearance, and that may display very earthy and funky aromas on the nose.<br>While these traits may be off-putting to some, it is precisely this raw and direct approach that is particularly appealing to natural wine aficionados. <br>

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Our Natural Wine Guide

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  1. OuNrauWtarlnieGudie InArticlesbyMarloesFransenandAndrewMecoli/12/11/2018/LeaveaComment Everythnigyouwantedtoknowabout naturawlnies Whastinaturawl nie? Oneofthesimplestdefinitionsofanaturalwineis:nothingadded,nothingtakenaway. Althoughthereisnolegaldefinitionofhowanaturalwineismade,thereareafewprinciplesthatconsistentlyabideto thebasicideathatwineshouldbemadeinthevineyard,notthecellar:noaddedchemicals,noaddedsulfites(orjust thebareminimalamount),notemperaturecontrolduringfermentation,noaddedyeast,nofiningorfiltration,andno pesticidesorherbicidesinthevineyard. Byreducingthewinemaker’sinterventiontoaminimum,whatisleftintheglassshouldbethepurestexpressionofthe grapes and the soil, not a manufactured product built scientifically to appeal to the mainstream palate. This often resultsinwinesthatcanbecloudyandrusticinappearance,andthatmaydisplayveryearthyandfunkyaromasonthe nose. Whilethesetraitsmaybeoff-puttingtosome,itispreciselythisrawanddirectapproachthatisparticularlyappealing tonaturalwineaficionados.Theideathateachbottlemaydifferfromthenext,andthatthebottlesarenotcomingoff anassemblyline,isattractingconsumersthataretiredofthefakenatureofmassproducedproducts.

  2. Gettingtoknowaboutthewinemaker’sphilosophy,isafundamentalvaluethatisimpossibletofindinmassproduced products. Fermentaotinwthinaturayleasts Regardingwine,fermentationistheprocessofthemicroorganismyeastconvertingthenaturalsugarsinthesweet grapejuice(called“must”)intoalcohol(andthebyproductcarbondioxide). Thisisusuallyacarefullycontrolledpartofthevinificationprocesswherethewinemakeraddsacalculatedamountofa selectedstrainofyeast(eithernaturalofsynthetic).Thisway,thedurationofthefermentationprocessandtheimpact oftheyeastontheflavorofthewineareinthehandsofthewinemakerratherthannature. Withnaturalwines,itsphilosophydesiresquitetheoppositeandtheobjectiveistoletnaturehavetheupperhandin creatingthewine.Therefore,noselectedandmeasuredoutquantityofyeastisaddedtothemust,butthewinemaker ratherletsthenaturalyeast(thatformsathinmatte-likelayerontheoutsideoftheskinsofthegrapes)takecareofthe fermentation byitself. Thatusuallymeansittakeslongerforfermentationtostart,andittakeslongerforthefermentationprocesstobe completed,sometimesuptoseveralmonthsinsteadofafewweeks!Theyeast,whichinnaturalwinesisnotfiltered outbeforethewineisbeingbottled,alsoaddsanotherflavordimensiontothewine,whichinsomenaturalwinesis morepresentthaninothers. BarnyardvsC.‘ elana’romas Oneofthemaindebatesinthewineworldwhentalkingaboutnaturalwinesisthattheyaretoooftenflawed,andthat leaving the wine develop on its own devices may lead to the exposure of defects that the wine industry has been solvingthroughouttheyearswiththeaidoftechnologicaladvancesandresearch. Whiletheremaysometimesbeatendencyinnaturalwinesupporterstojustifywinesthatareobjectivelyflawed,itis theimperfectionsthatareadmittedlyfundamentaltotheideathatnowinecaneverbeexactlyidenticalfromoneyear

  3. tothenext,andinsomecases,fromonebottletothenext.Theimperfectionsgivethewinecharacter.Theinfamous barnyardsmell,forexample,isoneofthemainelementsofdiscussion. Because natural wines are fermented by its own wild yeasts, which are not filtered out of the wine after the fermentationisfinished,thereisoftensomethingcharacteristicallydifferentaboutthearomas(andthereforetaste)of naturalwines,oftendescribedas‘Barnyard’. Thebarnyardsmellisparticularlyreferencingtotheanimal‘products’thatcanbefoundonthefloorofabarnyard,if youknowwhatwemean.ThispersonalitytraitiscreatedbyakindofwildyeastcalledBrettanomyces,orBrett,for short.AndalthoughBrettaffectingthearomasofawineisnotperdefinitionabadthing-infact,itcangiveawinea certainrusticfunkappreciatedbynaturalwinelovers–toomuchbarnyardinawinewillmakeitsmell,err,somewhat unappealing! Istiruethatdrniknignaturawl nies reducesthersikofgentigahangover? Manynaturalwineconsumersaredrawntothelowerimpactthesewineshaveonourorganism,comparedtowines thataretreatedwithchemicaladditivesandundergoindustrialprocesses. Thelow-interventionprocessofnaturalwinemakingoftenleadstowinesthatcontainloweralcohollevels,barelyany sulfites (although every wine will always contain a small quantity of natural sulfites) and that are light and easy to drink. Althoughitisnotscientificallyproven,mostnaturalwineadvocatesarefirmbelieversthatduetothislighterprofile, therisksofgettingahangoverandothernegativesideeffects,aregreatlyreduced. Whiletheremightbesometruthtothistheory,itisstilladvisabletoalwaysdrinkinmoderationifyouwanttomake sureyouwon’thaveabadheadacheinthemorning.

  4. NaturaWlniesniItayl ThenaturalwinemovementinItalyisinconstantexpansion,anditisbecomingmorecommonthroughoutthecountry forrestaurantstoincludeanaturalwineselectiontotheirwinelists. MajorcitieslikeRomeandMilanhaveaconsiderableamountofwinebarsandshopswithextensivenaturalwine options,orinsomecasesexclusivelydedicatedtothisworld. During the week of the most important wine fair in Italy, Vinitaly, that is held annually in Verona, two alternative eventsfocusedonnaturalwinestakeplace:ViniVeriinCereaandtheVinnatureventatVillaFavorita.Theseevents areprovingtobesopopularthatmanywineloversbypassthemainfairgroundscompletelyandchooseonlytoattend these. TheVinnaturorganizationisledbyatrailblazeroftheItaliannaturalwineworld,AngiolinoMaule.Heisawinegrower fromtheSoaveareainVeneto,andhasbeenattheforefrontoftheItaliannaturalwinemovementformanyyears. In an effort to establish common ground and regulations within the winemakers of his organization, in 2018 he establishedacharteroutliningthemainprinciplesandregulationsthatallwinemakersmustfollowinordertobepart ofVinnatur. Thestaplesofnaturalwinemakingsuchaslowsulfitelevels,handpickingofthegrapes,andnoaddedchemicals,were allincluded. Naturawlnieswordlwdie Thissortofcharterwasalsocreatedinothercountriesduetothelackofanyofficial,government-recognizedsetof regulations.Amongtheassociationsworldwidethatservethispurposeafewofthemainonesare: LesVinsS.A.I.N.S.(SansAucunIntrantNiSulfite–WithoutAnyAdditivesOrSulfites),France. L’AssociationdesVinsNaturels,France. AsociacióndeProductoresdeVinosNaturales,Spain. RAWWine,USA,UKandGermany Agreatwaytogetfamiliarwiththewinesfromthesedifferentorganizationsistoattendthenumerousnaturalwine eventsthatareorganizedthroughouttheyearinmostmajorcities.Foraveryreasonablefee,itispossibletotaste directlyfromtheproducer’shands,andinthemeantimepersonallylearnabouttheirbackgroundandideals. Whastithedfeirencebetweennatural wniesandorganci,boiolgciaolr boidynamciwnies? Biologicalandorganicwinesarecertifiedlabelsandthewinemakerhastocomplywiththerulesandregulationssetby

  5. theorganizationthatcertifiesthewines.Itisakindofmembershipthatthewinemakersubscribestoandpaysafeefor.theorganizationthatcertifiesthewines.Itisakindofmembershipthatthewinemakersubscribestoandpaysafeefor. The standards for producing a biological wine are slightly milder than for organic wines, with the latter strictly forbiddingtheuseofanysyntheticfertilizers,herbicidesandpesticidesinthevineyardortheadditionofsulfitestothe wines(withtheexceptionofEuropeandCanada,wherethelevelofsulfitescannotexceed100partspermillion(ppm) forredwinesand150ppmforwhitewines). Biodynamic wines are also certified, but they take it even further than organic wines, not just setting rules that are sciencerelated,butalsoadoptingregulationsrelatedtoacertainwinemakingphilosophyestablishedbytheAustrian academicandphilosopherRudolphSteinerinthelate20swhichconnectstheyearlyagriculturalcycleofavineyardto thelunarcycleandthepositionofthesunandtheplanetsinaspiritualway. Thesuperiorqualityofabiodynamicwinecomparedtoanorganicwinecannotbeprovenscientifically,butrather spirituallythewaythephilosophyofreligioncanhaveapositiveeffectonpeople. Natural wines mostly live outside all of the established borders of organic, biological and biodynamic winemaking. Naturalwinemakersoftenalsochoosetopurposelynotabidebytherulesoftheirofficialregionalandgovernment- certifieddenominations,inordertoproducewinesthatdonotfollowthecommontraitsthatareofficiallyrecognized astypicaloftheseareas. Whileofficialarearecognitionisstillanimportantfactorthatcanaddvalueandprestigetoawine,theseproducers choosetoprioritizewhattheyconsidermoretrueandhonesttothegrapeandsoil.Growinginterestinthenatural winemovementisprovingthatthereisalargeamountofwineconsumersthatseemtoagreewiththisidea.

  6. Ourecommendaotins Italianwinemakerstraditionallyworkasclosetonatureaspossibleandbelievethattherepresentationofthelocal terroirandcharacterofthegrapeitselfshouldbethemostimportantaspectsofawine,nothumaninterference. Thecraftandartofwinemakinghasusuallybeenpassedonfromgenerationtogeneration,datingbacktoatimewhere moderntechnologywasnotyetavailable.Andalthoughsomemodernequipmenthasbeenintroducedinthewineries nowadays, these traditional producers never took such a scientific approach to winemaking as many new world wineriesdo.Thatbeingsaid,naturalwinemakingisacompletelydifferentphilosophy,andonethathasrecentlygained muchpopularityintheworld,includingItaly. HereareafewpicksfromourpersonallistoffavoriteItaliannaturalwineproducers.Pleasenotethatweareonly highlightingafewoftheinnumerablegreatwineriesthatarecurrentlyavailableonthemarket. FrankCornesislen Therose’wineSusucaru,fromproducerFrankCornelissen,hasbeengainingpopularityinthewineworldduetothe supportandenthusiasmofUSrapper/TVgourmetpersonality,ActionBronson. Admittedly,thisisaratherrefreshingtwistontheusualbig-money,big-champagneimageryusuallyassociatedwith thehiphopworld.Inthiscase,therapperisdefinitelyontosomethingspecial. Cornelissen,aBelgianlivingonMountEtnainSicily,wasinspiredtostartmakingwinebyatriptoGeorgia,wherehe tastedtheamphora-aged,traditionalorangewinesofthearea.Withnoexperienceinwinemaking,heboughtlandin Sicily,ontheEtnavolcano,startedmakingwine,andrapidlybecameoneofthemostrespected(andcontroversial) producersinthewineworld. Afirmadvocateofno-interventionwinemakingproceduresandlettingnaturerunitscourse,hiswinesinitiallytended tobeveryunstableandinconsistentfrombottletobottle,butafteryearsofexperienceandfine-tuning,hiswinesnow havereachedabeautifulbalancebetweenthemorewildandrusticelements,andasharp,focusedelegance. TherefreshingandeasytodrinkSusucaruandContadinowines,togetherwithhisnumeroussinglevineyardbottlings, such as his Munjebel line and the rich and powerful Magma, are currently some of the most sought after bottles by wine loversworldwide. EmdioiPepe Abruzzohadalwaysbeenknownasaregionwherewinewasproducedbasedonquantity,notquality.Forthisreason, whenestateownerEmidioPepedecidedin1964tostopsellinggrapesdestinedformassproduced,low-qualitywine, and started making low-yield wines following groundbreaking strict biodynamic procedures, most of his fellow wine producersandvineyardownersthoughtthathehadlosthismind. Pepe’sgamblepaidoffwell,andheisnowoneofthemostlegendaryandrespectedproducersofthenaturalwine world.ThelongevityofhisMontepulcianoredwines,andhisTrebbianowhites,havebeenimpressingeventhemost jadedwineloversthroughouttheyears.

  7. Hiswinesarefunkyandcomplex,andsometimestheytendtogiveintotheirmoreearthyandwildside.Thismakes them in some cases somewhat difficult to fully appreciate, especially to wine drinkers with little experience with naturalwines. ButifyouareluckyenoughtoopenanagedPepeMontepulcianofromagoodvintage,oroneofhislean,crispand acidicPecorinoorTrebbianowhitewines,therewardswillbegreat! PaolBea ThePaoloBeawineryislocatedrightontheoutskirtsofthesmalltownofMontefalco,Umbria,famousforitshighly structuredandtannicSagrantinowine.TheestatehasbeenintheBeafamilysincethe1500s,andisnowadaysatthe forefrontofthenaturalwinemovement. Montefalcowinesareknownfortheirdarkfruitandpowerfulprofile,usuallyhighlightingstrengthoverelegance.Bea hassomehowmanagedtotamethewildandrusticSagrantinogrape,knowntobeofthemosttannicgrapevarietiesin theworld,intoamorerefinedandsubtleversion. Oneofhistopbottlings,thePagliaro,isatrulyremarkableinterpretationofaSagrantinowine.Iflefttoageforatleast fiveyears,itbeginstolosesomeofitsimpenetrable,thoughcharacteristicssocommonlyfoundinaMontefalcowine, anddisplaysamoreherbalandfloralprofile. Sagrantino was traditionally vinified as a sweet red wine, and that tradition continues today in the form of the SagrantinoPassito.Ifyougetthechance,don’tpassuptheopportunityoftastingPaoloBea’sdeeplyconcentratedbut notoverlysweetversion. Ohtenroatbelnautrawlnieafvoetrisrof,mnohrtot souht: CascinadegliUlivi,Piemonte Bressan, Friuli-VeneziaGiulia La Biancara,Veneto Podere Pradarolo,Emilia-Romagna I Botri di Ghiaccioforte, Toscana Ca’ Sciampagne,Marche Le Coste,Lazio CantinaGiardino,Campania ‘A Vita,Calabria NatalinoDelPrete,Puglia

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