Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions

1. Chapter 19 Wigs and Hair Additions © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

2. “Make a game of finding something positive in every situation. Ninety-five percent of your emotions are determined by how you interpret events to yourself.” – Brian Tracy © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

3. Objectives • Explain the differences between human hair wigs and synthetic wigs. • Describe the two basic categories of wigs. • Describe the various types of hairpieces and their uses. • Explain several different methods of attaching extensions. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

4. Important Role in Fashion • Working with wigs and hair additions can be either a simple retail effort or a highly specialized field. Most clients buy wigs off the shelf or on the Internet. • Wigs are rarely custom fitted today. • Toupees are often custom fitted. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

5. Range of Hair Additions • Hair additions range from clip-ons such as ponytails, chignons, and bangs to elaborately applied extensions in which strands are attached individually. Single strands are hand-tied onto individual strands of natural hair (which requires specialized training). © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

6. Wigs • Human hair test • Human hair advantages – More realistic – Greater durability – Same styling and maintenance as natural hair © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

7. Disadvantages of Human Hair • Climate reactions • Required resetting after shampooing • Oxidizing color • Breaking and splitting hair © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

8. Synthetic Hair Advantages • Strength and durability • Great value • Pre-set style and texture • Almost unlimited color selection • No fading or oxidizing with sun exposure © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

9. Synthetic Disadvantages • Low tolerance to extreme heat • Traditional haircolor not recommended for • Unnatural shine and thickness • Correlation between price and quality © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

10. Quality and Cost of Human Hair • Top of line: European • Second: Indian and Asian • Third: mixture of human and animal hair • Fourth: human hair mixed with synthetic hair © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

11. Wig Selection Questions • What is it made of? • Natural or artificially colored? • What is the grade of strength, elasticity, and porosity? • Is the cuticle intact? • Is it fallen hair? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

12. Wig Selection Questions (continued) • Is it tangle free? • What is the condition? • Does color match client’s? • Can it be permed? • Will it last for four to six months? © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

13. Wig Defined • An artificial covering for the head consisting of a network of interwoven hair. A wig completely conceals 100 percent of the natural hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

14. Hair Addition Defined • A hairpiece or small wig used to cover the top or crown of the head, or a hair attachment of some sort © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

15. Types of Wigs • Cap: often hand-knotted • Capless: machine-made – Light and comfortable – Allow scalp to breathe – Ready for immediate wear © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

16. Construction Methods • Hand-tied or hand-knotted • Semi-hand-tied • Machine-made © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

17. Taking Measurements • Each manufacturer has its own form to fill out that notes the required measurements. • Follow those specifications using a soft measuring tape. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

18. Blocking the Wig • A block is a head-shaped form usually made of canvas-covered cork or styrofoam. It is used for fitting, coloring, and sometimes styling. • Six sizes, ranging from 20 to 22 inches • Swivel clamp: used to hold block, allowing for greater control when styling © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

19. Putting On and Sizing Wig • Secure hair • Shorten wig from front to nape (horizontal tuck) • Shorten wig in back (vertical tuck) © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

20. Wig Tools and Implements • Specialized needle and thread • Boar-bristle brush • Soft measuring tape • Specialized products • Duckbill clips • T-pins • Hair and bobby pins • Wig block • Neck strip • Wig caps © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

21. Toupee Tools • Block • Clips • Specialized adhesive • Specialized needle and thread • Specialized tape • T-pins © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

22. Cutting the Wig • Objective: to make hair look realistic • Taper ends to make shape look less solid. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

23. Basic Cutting Methods • Cut on head block. • Comb out and finish on client. • Free-form cutting © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

24. Basic Cutting Methods (continued) • Practice cutting. – Begin with shadow cut. – Cut second wig dry. – Repeat exercise with other tools. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

25. Styling the Wig • Use low heat. • Treat gently and kindly. • Use soft-bristle brushes. • Use block for coloring, perming, setting, and basic cut outline. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

26. Styling Tips for Hairline • Choose products carefully. • Backcomb gently. • Blend client’s hair into wig hair. • Employ wind test. • Create little imperfections. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

27. Wig Cleaning • Follow manufacturer’s directions. • Use gentle, acid-balanced product. • Avoid sulfur-based or dandruff shampoos. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

28. Coloring Wigs and Hair Additions • Color rings: 70 colors, from black to pale blonde • Range from black to pale blonde • Most common color level: 1 • White yak hair for fantasy colors • Check cuticle • Always strand test • Conduct regular color checks © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

29. Perming Wigs • Perm human hair wigs only. • Cover wig block. • Pin securely to head form. • Perm as normal. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

30. Hairpieces • 20 percent to 70 percent coverage • Usually temporary (not worn at night) © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

31. Hairpiece Types • Integration hairpieces (natural hair is pulled through openings to blend with hairpiece) • Toupees • Fashion hairpieces © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

32. Toupees • Temporary attachment • Semipermanent attachment • Custom designed © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

33. Fashion Hairpieces • Wraparound ponytail © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

34. Fashion Hairpieces (continued) • A cascade of curls attached with a comb © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

35. Fashion Hairpieces (continued) • Hair wrap © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

36. Hair Extensions • Determine length/thickness needed. • Determine desired look and map it. • Stay 1 inch away from hairline. • Ensure base does not show. • Match curl pattern. • Fewer extensions needed for curly hair. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

37. Professional Approach • Safety for client’s hair • Comfort • Security • Style and fashion © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

38. Braid-and-Sew Attachment Extensions are secured at base of client’s own hair by sewing. Hair is attached to an on-the-scalp braid or cornrow that serves as the track. Tracks may be positioned horizontally, vertically, diagonally, or along curved lines that follow the contours of the head. Fiber filler may be used to help grip the client’s hair and create a longer-lasting braid to attach weft. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

39. Braid-and-Sew Attachment Procedure • Partings • Size of sections • Hidden ends of braids • Position tracks 1 inch behind hairline • Blunt, custom-designed needle © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

40. Lock Stitch • Cut thread and pass needle through weft. • Create loop and pass needle through loop. • Pull loop tight to lock stitch. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

41. Double-Lock Stitch • Duplicates lock stitch. • Thread is wound around needle twice to create the double lock. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

42. Overcast Stitch • Pass needle under track and weft. • Bring needle back over to make new stitch. • Repeat stitch along track to end. • Complete with lock stitch. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

43. Braid-and-Sew Advantages • Very safe • Requires no special equipment © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

44. Bonding Procedure • Section off hair at nape. • Measure first weft. • Lay weft on flat surface. • Use consistent amount of adhesive. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

45. Bonding Procedure (continued) • Hold for 20 seconds. • Blowdry to seal. • Proceed to next section. • Avoid working too close to crown. • Perform patch test. • Do not perform on damaged hair. • Avoid exposure of wefts to oil. • Avoid bonding to wefts 12 inches or longer. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

46. Removing Bonding • Dissolve adhesive bond with oil or bond remover. • Technique can be used with loose hair or wefts that are cut into very small sections. © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

47. Bonding Advantages • Affordable and timely • Can be gently shampooed © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

48. Bonding Disadvantages • Allergies to ingredients in adhesive • Patch test • Inappropriate for severely damaged hair • Exposure to oils © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

49. Fusion Bonding Method • Expensive and time consuming • Harmonizes with natural hair • Light and comfortable © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.

50. Fusion Bonding Method (continued) • Lasts up to four months • Wrapping a keratin-based strip • Extension strand under natural hair © Copyright 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning. All Rights Reserved. May not be scanned, copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.