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BELAYING

BELAYING. Freedom of the Hills Chapter 10. Belaying. The belayer holds the rope to limit the fall of a climber Climbers will Fall! Distance of fall depends on type of climb and amount of slack in rope. Belaying. Use your body weight to stop a fall

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BELAYING

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  1. BELAYING Freedom of the HillsChapter 10

  2. Belaying • The belayer holds the rope to limit the fall of a climber • Climbers will Fall! • Distance of fall depends on type of climb and amount of slack in rope

  3. Belaying • Use your body weight to stop a fall • Rope friction allows belayers to safely belay much heavier climbers • You don’t need a strong grip

  4. Different Belay Situations • Belaying a lead climber • Belaying a follower • Called Top-rope • From above or below

  5. Belaying A Leader • Most complicated • Falls involve more force • Belayer feeds rope out as climber climbs • Will not practice in this class

  6. Belaying a follower from below • Simplest set-up • Anchors located at top of climb • Take rope in as climber ascends • Belayer doesn’t always need to clip into an anchor

  7. Belaying a follower from above • “Top Belay” • Requires belayer to be anchored in • Cannot verify harness and tie-in knot just before climbing • Will practice at Robber’s Roost

  8. Belay Techniques • Hip Belay • Aperture Device • Autolocking Device • Munter Hitch • Covered later in class

  9. Hip Belay • Earliest Belay technique • Advantages • Fast rope movement • No special gear required • Disadvantages • Friction is not totally painless • Lowering a climber can be a pain • Rope burns are possible

  10. Hip Belay

  11. Hip Belay

  12. Aperture Belay Devices

  13. Aperture Belay Devices • ADVANTAGES • Friction is painless • Lowering a climber is easy • Can rappel on devices with two slots • Very light • DISADVANTAGES • Must maintain full alertness in every action

  14. Autolocking Belay Devices • ADVANTAGES • Increases friction when climber falls • Reduces friction significantly when lever is pulled • DISADVANTAGES • Heavy • Complicated to rig

  15. 1st Rule of Belaying • Your brake hand never lets go of the rope!!

  16. 2nd Rule of Belaying • Your brake hand never lets go of the rope!!

  17. Belay Device Principle

  18. Belay Device-Braking

  19. Belay Device Use - Good Pull - 6 to 12 inches Break – lower than device

  20. Belay Device Use - Good (reach) Under – second hand your break hand Slide – your break hand toward device

  21. Rope Position • Rope from climber is fed into upper side of belay device • Reversed when belaying from above

  22. Rope Position (for belay from below) To Climber Clip rope & device with locking carabiner To Brake Hand

  23. Watch out for Hand • In a fall, it isn’t uncommon for a little rope to feed through belay device • You can catch your hand in device if not careful

  24. Belay Anchor

  25. Belay Anchor The belayer should be anchored in line with the climber.

  26. Basic Signals CLIMBER: BELAYER: • On Belay? • Asking if belayer is ready • Climbing • I’m ready to climb • Off Belay • I’ve finished climbing and am in a safe place • Belay On • After double checking that everything is ready • Climb On • You can now climb • Climber should not climb before belayer signals this • Belay is off • I have removed the rope from the belay device

  27. During a check, both belay and climber check the belayer and both check the climber

  28. Other Signals(for the climber) • ROCK – Watch Out! SOMETHING is falling • UP ROPE – Take up slack in rope • THAT’S ME – Indicates to belayer that all the slack has been removed from rope

  29. Other Signals(for the climber) • TAKE – Take up rope and apply tension (climber needs rest or is ready to be lowered back to bottom) • SLACK – Remove tension from rope (more for lead climbing)

  30. 1st Rule of Belaying • Your brake hand never lets go of the rope!!

  31. Summary THE BELAYER IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THE CLIMBER’S SAFETY! You Must: Pay attention to the climber Avoid distractions Questions?

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