The Role of the Ecolabel in textiles 2011

1. The Role of the Ecolabel in textiles 2011 Nicholas Paxevanos June 7th 2011 Latvia

2. Common sense and responsibility Topics • Current situation • Why the ecolabel • Support/Benefits • GPP/Retailer trends • Case Examples • Criteria • Application process

3. Current situation • Textile licences: EU / International

4. Why the EcolabelSupport • The Ecolabel is moving ahead and it is an important instrument for… • Supporting the SCP and SIP Action plans • “Promoting sustainable products and reducing Environmental damage” • Work on promoting the Ecolabel is carried out through • Marketing initiatives, fairs, Brochures GPP, etc. on both • National level • Competent Bodies and stakeholders • EU level • The EU commisssion - EUEB is the administrator • Internationally • Unep – 5 year project

5. Why the Ecolabel Benefits • Improve your company image • Differentiate your products • Competitive Advantage • Retain Customers and employees satisfaction/loyalty • Access to marketing events/on-line catalogue • A tool for GPP • Stay ahead of the competition – meet public sector environmental purchasing demands • Expand your market – do business with public authorities across Europe • Reduce the burden of responding to public tenders – use the Flower as an easy proof of environmental compliance • Put your products on a short list • A Tool in other areas: CSR, Env. Management, LCA Gain new customers Save money in the long run

6. Why the EcolabelGPP and the Ecolabel • Public Procurement accounts for 17% of EU wide (GDP) Gross Domestic Product equivalent to 2 trillion Euros • European Commission“Europe 2020 strategy” (growth strategy– sustainable -reducing Co2 emissions). GPP an important instrument On 27 January, the European Commission has launched a public consultation on the modernisation of EU public procurement policy. The results of the consultation will provide input to the Commission for the preparation of the future legislative proposal on the reform of the EU public procurement rules.  • GPP made easier for Public Purchasers • No expert knowledge required • Fully compatible with the principles of the international market • Easy identification • GPP Training Toolkit • Handbook on Green Public Procurement • Leaflet on GPP and the EU Ecolabel • Ready made Criteria: Uniform throughout the member states

7. Why the EcolabelGPP Member states situation

8. Examples of GPP in Denmark GPP is flourishing in Denmark Public sector: There are 97 municipalities: 16% of GNP, 270 billion DKK Hospitals, municipalities, ministries, post, police, army etc. Set requirements for textile products: Technical, Quality, environmental, etc. Offer a Tender Award criteria %: Price = 50/60% Environment = 15% (changing constantly) Elderly care has about 600,000 employees: All denim for these employees must adhere to Flower criteria Almost 80% of all cleaning products and services procured in Denmark are certified by an ISO type I Ecolabel. CO2 reduction of 43%. Cost reduction of 3% There is a network for GPP consisting of municipalities The Competent Body is active and offers consultancy services for GPP

9. Why the EcolabelRetailer Trends The Retail sector represents about 11% of EUs GDP Individual chains: Want to be seen as Environmentally concerned The Retail Forum: Launched 2009 – support SCP/SIP Action plans - Includes the biggest chains Benefits for Retailers/Customers • Easy to choose a product • Environmental • Health • Quality Internationally: Wal-Mart, Levi Strauss, Esprit, H&M … are working together to find a common standard for sustainable clothing

10. Case Examples Textiles:Private Sector The process supply chain is controlled for Examples Private sector KRENHOLM Estonian Winning tenders Supplying various EU customers Actively promoting the Ecolabel Australian meeting demand PENFABRIC Keeping customers loyalty Lithuanian Promoting through their work zone range

11. High Quality Consumer Health Safe Environmental performance Case Examples Textiles:Private Sector Thong Thai Textile

12. Textile Criteria The process supply chain is controlled for • Development of Textile Criteria • Responsible CB • Development process (CB /stakeholders) • Criteria overview • Fibres: Natural fibres, man made fibres ….(pesticides, toxic residues, emissions) • Chemicals and processes: Spinning, weaving, dyeing/printing… (Harmful substances: environment/health) • Fitness for use (Quality: dimensional change, colour fastness .. ) • Waste Water Treatment: Ph 6-9, COD > 20 g/kg • Energy use

13. The Application Process Textile Manual: • Part A: Are the general application forms • Part B and Part C: : Consist of different forms/declarations that must be properly filled in with the right documentation attached. Important things to remember in the Application process • Make a flow chart • Determine what documentation should be sent to whom • Check waste water • Inform the suppliers • Collect and check the documentation sent • Organise/file and complete the documentation • Fill out the application forms (Part A,B) and send them to the selected CB Where to apply

14. Application process Guide It is very important to start with making a flow chart of the products life cycle. • A flow chart tells us who does what. This is step 1.

15. Application process Guide Step 2 is to research the suppliers Does the textile supplier have a flower licence? • YES: Ask the textile supplier to send their licence number and a letter stating that qualities in question are covered by the licence. Fill in application forms (Part A of the Users manual) and send the application to the competent body.  • NO: Has the textile supplier previously provided flower documentation for another customer? • If YES, then ask them to send the same documentation relevant to your quality. Check to see that the documentation is up to date, fill in the application forms and send them to the competent body. • If NO, proceed to step 3. Are the suppliers in the flow chart European, Asian or other? • European: proceed to step 3. • Asian or other: Find out if they treat the waste water • If YES: send waste water treatment pages to them so they can read and fill in (this is to make sure that they conform to the waste water criteria).Proceed to step 3.

16. Application process Guide Step 3. • Sort out what pages (users manual) apply to the fibre supplier, the spinner, the knitter and dyer.  • Find out whether to contact them directly or whether an agent or any other supplier will do it. • Find out if there is any wet process other than the dyer and who it is. GET Waste water documentation before any other documentation. • Send the relevant criteria and accompanying pages to whom they apply. This way they only get some pages rather than the whole users manual. • Make a folder with an index. Place documentation received in the appropriate place in the folder and check it in the index. • When all the documentation is received, send your product for the fitness to use tests, fill in the application forms and send it to the competent body. If a supplier is not responding, find out the reason. It could be because:   • they don’t understand what is required of them • they don’t want to pay for a test • They are just not interested in the flower for one reason or another  It is easier to get a supplier to cooperate if the reason is known. • Remember to always check if the declaration sheets are filled in correctly (date, ticked boxes, stamped and signed). Check that the tests, safety data sheets and documentation asked for are attached to the declaration.

17. The Application Costs Where to apply

18. Thank you for the attention Questions Comments Bucharest 17.2.2011 Sense for your Company Responsibility to the Environment

19. Work Group Discussion topics Which of the areas below are relevant/important for your company • Export Private sector • B2B • Retailers/Chain shops • Retail • Public sector How can the Ecolabel benefit your company/organisation in the areas of importance • Make a list List in groups: Application process General discussion