What material makes up the majority of household waste? A: Organics/Yard Waste

1. What material makes up the majority of household waste? A: Organics/Yard Waste B: Beverage Containers C: Paper Composting: One Simple Act

2. The average person disposes 289 kg of residential waste every year

3. Composting is a controlled natural biological process where bacteria, fungi, and other organisms decompose organic materials like leaves, grass clippings, and food wastes. • If decomposition didn’t occur, our world would be riddled with dead animals and plants  the nutrients cycle back into the system to be used again by other plants and animals. • By removing organic material from our home and property by putting it in the green bin, we are exporting nutrients that could be recycled in our lawn or garden.

4. Composting Recycling organic materials

5. So, why should we compost? To get to the answer, look at the alternative Landfills are engineered storage facilities for our garbage. There is a misconception that landfills are just giant composters and organic material will just decompose, no harm done.

6. Here are some examples of organic material from a landfill.

7. Decomposition does occur very slowly in a landfill but because it is occurring without oxygen, you get bad odours, methane gas, carbon dioxide and leachate. Methane is a very powerful greenhouse gas, more powerful than carbon dioxide. Some landfills capture the methane and use it to heat buildings, but not all do. What happens to organics at a landfill site? So, what is the difference between landfill and composting?

8. Composting Basics Decomposers are essential to a healthy functioning composter. Microorganisms are at work in your compost pile decomposing your waste; in one spoonful of compost there is an entire ecosystem.

9. Bacteria: retain nutrients (use nitrogen and carbon from organic matter) and improve soil structure. Bacteria are ubiquitous (everywhere) and can be added to a start up bin by adding soil or compost from another bin. Fungi: retain nutrients, improve soil structure, and need oxygen in order to survive There must be a balance between fungi and bacteria Protozoa (animallike protists): feed on bacteria which allow plants to access the nutrients tied up in them. Nematodes (roundworms): consume bacteria and fungi, which releases N, P, S, and micronutrients to be available to plants. Earthworms and Micro-arthropods: feed off bacteria, fungi and nematodes. Because compost piles can reach temperatures of 60 oC, many larger insects are not present.

10. So, if these are the organisms doing all the work, you have take care of them and give the food in the correct proportions to allow them to thrive. What makes good compost? Greens • Greens: are nitrogen-rich and make up the majority of our kitchen waste • disease-free green leaves, grass clippings and garden waste, weeds (before they go to seed), un-cooked vegetable/fruit peels and scraps, coffee grounds, tea bags, flowers • Browns: are carbon-rich and include dried leaves, grass clippings, evergreen needles, straw, prunings and cuttings (good for air pockets), bird cage cleanings, crushed egg shells, dryer and vacuum lint, sawdust, and shredded paper/cardboard • Browns and greens should generally be equal in weight. Browns

11. Air: is necessary for cellular respiration and allows aerobic microorganisms to thrive and continue to breakdown the organic materials into compost. Moisture: allows microorganisms to move around and is easier to regulate in bins that are contained and have lids. A compost pile should be kept as moist as a wrung-out sponge Soil: contains all the decomposing microorganisms If soil is added, there is no need to add a compost activator. Soil is not the main component of compost, it is needed initially and can be used once your compost is established, to cover it. Air Water Soil

12. What Doesn’t Go in the Compost Bin? - Meat/Bones - Fish - Cheese/Dairy - Oily Foods - Butter - Pet Litter - Toxic Material - Diseased Plants - Weeds with seed heads or persistent roots - Cooked foods (keep it fresh) - Charcoal/Ashes

13. Repeat until no more material Shovel of soil 5-10 cm Greens Wet the pile 5-10 cm dried browns 5 cm of twigs Here is an easy to follow compost recipe to make sure that none of the vital compost ingredients are forgotten http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKlauRA7ugI

14. Add organic material to the compost on a regular basis. Start by adding your browns and greens in equal weighted amounts (it will appear that you are adding twice as many browns as greens). Depending on how the compost pile responds, you may have to increase the amount of greens or browns being added. To add air on a regular basis, mix the compost 2-4 times each month. It is suggested that you mix material from the edges into the centre of the compost bin. Water may be added as needed. A lid on the compost bin may help to easier maintain moisture levels The compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge; if you take a handful of compost and squeeze, 1-2 drops of water should come out.

15. COMPOST BINS Compost Bins: should be located in a dry, well-drained and sunny place. They should be not less than 1 cubic meter; this allows for proper mixing and enables the pile to heat up. Having more than one bin is ideal; this allows for you to cycle your compost and allows it to cure. Having a bin with a removable front also allows for more thorough mixing. Do it Yourself Compost Bins: can be made from tires, plastic, wood and/or chicken wire. They can also be square or circular in shape. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYUAXfVQFfM&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5i-Qe75-DDQ&feature=related

16. Mix often to speed the process Let’s say the compost bins we’ve set up have been sitting for a few weeks, what should we do now in order to maintain them? Continue Layering Save your browns! Add moisture as needed “The more effort you put in the more compost you’ll get out”

17. Is it done yet? How do you know when your compost is ready to use? Finished compost should look, feel and smell like dirt. One quick test is to put compost in a plastic Ziploc bag, seal it, wait 24hrs; if the compost still smells like earth, your compost is finished, if there is a foul smell it’s not! Uses Mix about 1/3 compost to 2/3 soil before using it as a potting mix (adding straight compost may burn your plants). Compost can be added directly as a top soil for lawns, gardens and trees. Compost Tea: place compost in a burlap sack and let sit for several hours in water - Add to gardens, around trees - Good mulching medium - Add to potted plants http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JP5Aqsd_g3s&feature=related

18. Benefits of Composting Nutrient Rich More diversity in your compost = greater number of nutrients. (There has been a depletion of nutrients in produce over the last 50 years because of industrial agricultural methods) Holds moisture 1kg of compost holds 2kg of water Helps to control soil erosion Bacteria and fungi combine soil particles together. Save money – No need to buy bags or fertilizer. Saves municipality money by not having to truck your material away.

19. Compost Troubleshooting

20. Advantages of Vermicomposting Compost year round Castings make an excellent soil conditioner Diverts waste from the landfill Limited space required Educational experience

21. The Container Should be a 50L container with air holes in the lid (7 mm holes spaced every 5cm). Could be made of wood, plastic or metal. Worm Tower – Worms and bedding,along with food, are placed in the bottom tray. Food is added to the tray above the worms. The worms migrate to where the food is located, leaving behind their castings which makes for easy compost harvesting.

22. The Bedding Newspaper –must be shredded Potting Soil – must be fertilizer free, should also add a handful of sand to provide grit Leaves and Straw – may attract other outdoor critters which may harm your worms. Add water – should feel like a moist wrung out sponge Fill the bin ¾ full with bedding material – add water-lift and mix bedding to add air

23. The Worms Eisentia fetida Redworms are ideal for vermicomposting because they process organic material quickly (earthworms do not process organics as quickly and are not ideal for a compost) Also called: Brandlings, red wigglers and manure worms. A 250ml container of worms is all you need to start off, begin feeding in small numberas of worms and then, as your population grows, you’ll be able to add more food. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxhEQEA0GN8 Worms can be borrowed from a neighbor, or bought from Cathy’s Crawly Composters in Bradford (http://www.cathyscomposters.com/ )

24. After 4-5 months you may find egg sacs in your bin. “You have too many worms when more than one-fifth of your bin is worms”

25. You should not put the same foods in the vermicomposter as the outdoor compost; spicy food is another no-no. Broken up, rinsed out egg shells are also a good option, providing minerals the worms need. One fifth rule: citrus and coffee grounds with filters should amount to no more than one-fifth of worm food. Worms digest more easily when food is cut into smaller pieces Freezing food ahead of time prevents fruit flies, also allows you to save your organics. Regularly In Moderation

26. Weekly Cover Mark area Monitor Feed worms once a week. Start with 500ml container of food. Create a hole in the bedding, cover, and mark the food site with a spoon or trowel. Check progress to see how fast food is disappearing; when worm population increases, you can give them more food more often

27. Harvesting Finished Compost Easy Method The easiest method is to simply leave the lid open for 10 minutes to let light drive the worms deep into the compost. Then scoop off the top worm-free layer for use. Migration Method Move all the material over to one side of the bin; place new bedding in the space created and add food waste to the new side for the next six to eight weeks. The worms will gradually migrate over and the finished compost can be removed.

28. Cone Method Dump the bin onto a large plastic sheet, shape 6 to 9 cone-shaped piles. Place a bright light over the piles for 30 minutes. Remove the top layer of compost until you see the worms, allow the worms burrow again. Repeat the process. Two bin or Screen Method Place a new container ,with holes in the bottom, on top of your vermicompost bin. Add bedding and then add food only to the new bin, eventually worms will migrate upwards to where the food is at and the castings will be left in the old bin.

29. Humanure • By disposing of feces and urine through composting, the nutrients contained in them are returned to the soil. • Human fecal matter and urine have high percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, carbon, and calcium, equal to many fertilizers and manures purchased in garden stores. • Humanure aids in the conservation of fresh water by avoiding the usage of potable water required by the typical flush toilet. • It further prevents the pollution of ground water by controlling the fecal matter decomposition before entering the system. • As a substitute for a flush water process, it reduces the energy consumption and, hence, greenhouse gas emissions associated with the transportation and processing of water and waste water. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6cUinUEEXM&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PL9889B26D78199430