Perfume Notebook Autumn-Winter 2004

1. Perfume Notebook Autumn-Winter 2004

2. Introduction The launches this season have a quality feel, they have dressed themselves in beautiful raw materials, opulent backgrounds, dark reds, profound purples and precious metals. Typical examples of these luxury perfumes are Visit for Woman, Cinema, Apparition, Prada, l’Instant pour Homme or Issey Miyake’s l’Eau Bleue pour Homme. Many of last year’s launches have found their better half: Visit, Pure, Burberry Brit, Magnetism, l’Instant, Echo. This gives consistency to the launches and slows down the “one-shot” effect. Glamour Lolitas (Envy, Britney Spears, Touch of Pink….) continue to provide inspiration to certain brands and constitute an interesting target. In terms of marketing, the recent launches tend to create their own concepts rather than use the brand or another successful fragrance as a reference.

3. Introduction • Classic glamour and femininity can be found in such launches as Cinéma, Infiniment, Prada, and Apparition among others reminding us to treat ourselves well. • Playing to our sense of romance, we can find the man of our dreams in L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme or Magnetism for Men, while playing the role of seductress ourselves (Envy Me, Pure Poison, Femme Individuelle). • Transcending space and time, we can escape the everyday by going Beyond Paradise to Be Delicious in the Big Apple, dine in Little Italy or fall in Love in Paris then jet off to London by Paul Smith. We may even sniff out our perfect mate (Burberry Brit for Men, Incanto Pour Homme, Visit for Women). • As we continue on our journey we are surrounded by the rich red, brilliant pink and deep blue hues of the flacons that house these enchanting creations, making us realise that the opulence and luxury of fragrance has returned.

4. Autumn - Winter 2004 Launches • Women’s Fragrances • Apparition – Emanuel Ungaro • Armani Mania – Armani • Be Delicious – DKNY • Blush – Marc Jacobs • Cinema – YSL • Echo Woman – Davidoff • Envy Me – Gucci • Infiniment – Chopard • Iris Nobile – Acqua di Parma • Lauren Style – Ralph Lauren • Little Italy – Bond N°9 • Love in Paris – Nina Ricci • Max Mara – Max Mara • Miracle So Magic! – Lancôme • Prada – Prada • Pure Poison – Dior • Rosamor – Oscar de la Renta • Touch of Pink – Lacoste • Visit for Woman – Azzaro • Men’s Fragrances • B* Men – Thierry Mugler • Beyond Paradise Men – Estée Lauder • Burberry Brit Men – Burberry • Incanto Homme – Ferragamo • L’Eau Bleue pour Homme – Issey Miyake • L’Instant pour Homme – Guerlain • Magnetism for Men – Escada • Pure for Men – Jil Sander • Reaction for Men – Kenneth Cole Unisex Fragrances Chêne – Serge Lutens Daim Blond – Serge Lutens L’Eau des Vanilliers – L’Occitane Timbuktu – L’Artisan Parfumeur Paired Fragrances Aigner Black – Aigner London – Paul Smith

5. Women's Fragrances

6. Apparition - Emanuel UngaroInternational, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL FRUITY • Olfactive Description • Top: Cayenne Pepper, Raspberry Liqueur • Mid: Double Delight Rose, Passion Flower • Base: Patchouli, Heliotrope • Special ingredient: Raspberry liqueur • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Floral - Fruity : Double delight rose, passiflore, raspberry, pepper note. The background is heliotrope and patchouli. • Bottle Designer: Sophie Loir (Sylvie de France) • Concept:Targets women between 18-35 years old. Emanuel Ungaro aims to capture the essence of “what a woman is today” with the launch of his third scent, Apparition. Ungaro is quoted as saying “for me, a woman unleashes the power to dream, that’s what I tried to do with this fragrance”. Both sensual and mysterious, the fragrance will appeal to the truly modern woman. (www.emanuelungaro.com)

7. Armani Mania - ArmaniInternational, August 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Fresh, Aromatic, Laurel, Pink Pepper • Mid: Fruity, Acacia, Mimosa, Liquorice, Foody • Base: Powdery, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Amber, Marine • Special ingredient: Laurel • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The woody aromatic floral opens with top notes of Moroccan laurel, green mandarin zest, blackcurrant and pink pepper. The middle notes are magnolia, peony, muguet and orris. The base notes feature white wood, sandalwood, amber, vanilla, white musk and Virginia cedar. • Bottle Designer: Fabien Baron • Concept: It is different from the first Mania in that its juice is pinkish while the packaging is white. Mania was black for the happy few. In other words it is an ode to life. Targeting women 18-34 years old, Mania Women is positioned for the woman who "has arrived" and as a result is comfortable with herself. (www.giorgioarmani.com)

8. Be Delicious - DKNYUSA, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL FRUITY • Olfactive Description • Top: Fruity,Melon, Green Apple • Mid: White Flowers, Lily, Rose • Base: Aqueous, Violet Leaves • Special ingredient: Apple • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The top note introduces American apple extract, created specially for DKNY, combined with cucumber, grapefruit and magnolia. In the middle are tuberose, muguet, rose and violet, drying down to a base of sandalwood, white amber, blonde wood and tender skin accord. • Bottle Designer: Chad Lavigne • Concept: Be Delicious is a fruity fragrance that celebrates life in the Big Apple. The outer packaging carries a sticker stating that the contents are 100% New York. (www.dkny.com)

9. Blush - Marc JacobsUSA, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL • Olfactive Description • Top: Bergamot, Jasmine, Honeysuckle • Mid: Jasmine, Orange Blossom • Base: Aqueous, Celery, Sandalwood, Pink Musk • Special ingredient: Honeysuckle • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Targeted to young, creative women, Blush opens with notes of jasmine nectar, jasmine fresh air and Italian bergamot and warms to a heart of star jasmine, jasmine breeze, pink freesia, orange flower and Japanese honeysuckle. The fragrance dries down to pink musk, cashmere wood and sandalwood accords that “anchor” the floral and round out the balance of notes. • Bottle Designer: Chad Lavigne • Concept: Jacobs' aim with Blush was to create the "sort of a perfume for the non-perfume person. “I wanted to capture a feminine emotion, a woman who has a knowing blush, who is beautiful and seductive" The fragrance will also be launched with a limited edition make-up collection. (www.marcjacobs.com)

10. Cinema - YSLInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBERFLORAL • Olfactive Description • Top: Fresh, Bergamot, Mandarin • Mid: Orange Blossom, Jasmine • Base: Amber, Vanilla, Powdery • Special ingredient: Vanilla and musk • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The golden jus opens with Corsican clementine, almond tree blossom and cyclamen. At its heart are classic amaryllis, sambac jasmine and peony, rounded out with a base of musk, amber and lingering Bourbon vanilla. • Bottle Designer: Lin Vautrin • Concept: The scent is positioned to conjure up images ofHollywood’s Golden Era or perhaps French New Wave. It is for the woman who is the star of her own life, someone who takes to the spotlight with confidence. (www.ysl.com)

11. Echo Woman - DavidoffInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL FRUITY • Olfactive Description • Top: Grape, Banana, Osmanthus • Mid: White Flowers, Aqueous • Base: Musky • Special ingredient: Osmanthus • Olfactive Description Trade Press: We softened its intensity with white musk and added femininity with floral notes of osmanthus and orris pulp around the heart. The juice's top note is grape-raspberry frappé, counteracted with a sensual base note of violet wood and crystal amber. • Bottle Designer: Karim Rashid • Concept: An Italian drink, grappa, was the inspiration for this new scent. It is targeted at the 25-35 year old woman.

12. Envy Me - GucciEurope and China, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL FRUITY • Olfactive Description • Top: Hesperidic, Tea • Mid: Lychee, Red Fruits, Rose • Base: Musky • Special ingredient: Lychee • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Its first note is the pink peony, followed by white tea, lychee and finally pink musk. • Concept: The “little sister” to Envy, Envy Me is intended to be a more light-hearted iteration of the original fragrance. Still considered to be very seductive, Envy Me unlike Envy is not based on pure desire, but on a more playful flirtation. The aim is to make this fragrance a desirable Gucci accessory, just like a Gucci handbag. Envy Me is targeted to reach young, affluent educated women, especially in the Greater China area, who are brand aware. Target: 25-35 year olds.

13. Infiniment - ChopardInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Bergamot,Petitgrain, Pink Pepper • Mid: Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Ylang-ylang • Base: Lilac, Powdery, Vanilla • Special ingredient: Tuberose, Bulgarian rose • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The heart is floral (rose, tuberose), enlightened by watery notes which announce a spicy touch (pepper associated to bergamot and petitgrain) and unveils its charms in a melting pot of benzoin, sandalwood and airy musks. • Bottle Designer: Jérôme Faillant-Dumas • Concept: The latest fragrance from luxury jeweller Chopard, Infiniment, is intended to have the same long-lasting appeal as their jewellery. The use of the adjective “infinitely” in the name was taken seriously since the project was developed with Chopard’s luxury roots in mind. The company wanted to go back to what Chopard stands for and deliver a high-end, upscale product. With this "skin jewel", French jeweller Chopard pursues his olfactive career in an ultra-feminine style.

14. Iris Nobile - Acqua di ParmaInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: CHYPRE FLORAL • Olfactive Description • Top: Orris, Star Anise • Mid: Orris, Orange Blossom • Base: Orris, Amber • Special ingredient: Orris • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Iris Nobile notes include orris petals, Sicilian mandarin and Calabrian bergamot, middle notes of orris petals and bottom notes of orris roots, Madagascan vanilla and amber crystals. • Bottle Designer: Acqua di Parma studio • Concept: "We have dedicated Iris Nobile to a woman who is fascinating, chic, feminine, sensual and intellectual. This is not a fashion fragrance, but something that has its own style". An orris made in the “Florentine” fashion with orange blossom and precious pearls. (www.acquadiparma.com)

15. Lauren Style - Ralph LaurenUSA, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL • Olfactive Description • Top: Gardenia,Orange Blossom • Mid: Muguet, Jasmine • Base: Patchouli, Vanilla, Musky • Special ingredient: Orange blossom • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The fragrance is described as a "suèded floral“. It includes opening notes of tangerine-kumquat, lime and Moroccan orange flower, blending into floral notes including jasmine, Tahitian gardenia and magnolia in the heart; patchouli, benzoin siam, suede and musk base notes. • Concept: The fragrance was created in synergy with the Lauren fashion line, which relaunched this spring. It will target sophisticated and elegant women between 25 and 50. (www.polo.com)

16. Little Italy - Bond N°9USA, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: HESPERIDIC • Olfactive Description • Top: Clementine, Grapefruit, Mandarin • Mid: Tangerine, Jasmine • Base: Musk • Special ingredient: Clementine • Olfactive Description Trade Press: An updated citrus splash/spray featuring top notes of clementine, grapefruit and mandarin, a heart of tangerine and jasmine accords and a sheer musk base note. • Bottle Designer: Laurice Rahme • Concept: Little Italy is the new fragrance in their series inspired by various New York neighbourhoods. It is the nineteenth scent in Bond No 9’s line.

17. Love in Paris - Nina RicciInternational except USA, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL FRUITY • Olfactive Description • Top: Bergamot, Star Anise • Mid: Jasmine,Rose, Peony, Apricot, Aqueous • Base: Woods, Musk, Vanilla • Special ingredient: Rose, Peony, Jasmine • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The juice's top notes feature Italian bergamot and star anise. Heart notes include rose, peony, apricot and jasmine, while at the base are notes of woods, vanilla and musk. • Bottle Designer: Jérôme Faillant-Dumas (L.O.V.E) • Concept: "Nina Ricci has always carried a positive message to women. Love in Paris comes at a not very positive time, so we want to bring a message of happiness". The Love in Paris name is supposed to recall Nina Ricci's Parisian roots and the brand's recurring theme of romance. (www.ninaricci.com)

18. Max Mara - Max MaraFrance, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBERFLORAL • Olfactive Description • Top: Citrus Fruits, Green • Mid: Aldehydic, Fruity, Apricot, Strawberry • Base: Musky, Vanilla, Cedarwood • Special ingredient: Cane Sugar • Olfactive Description Trade Press: A floral fragrance with a textile association. Linen freshness in top notes with ginger, Sicilian lemon. Feminine mid notes with lily, orchid (silk sensuality) and magnolia. Sweet base notes to show the comfort of cashmere, cedarwood and sandalwood. Main ingredient : Cane sugar give its softness and its personality to the perfume • Bottle Designer: Thierry de Baschmakoff (Aesthète) • Concept: Max Mara women’s fragrance is described as “fresh, luminous and feminine” created to capture the 53 year old fashion house’s “engaging sense of practical glamour”.Just like the clothing, the scent is meant to have a lifestyle rather than generation appeal. Max Mara's aim is to position it as one of the key fragrances in Europe within three years.

19. Miracle So Magic! - LancômeInternational, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL GREEN • Olfactive Description • Top: Watery, Green • Mid: Muguet, Rose, Fruity • Base: Vanilla • Special ingredient: Rose and narcissus • Olfactive Description Trade Press: A floral, green and sparkling note. With narcissus absolute, eglantine rose and clover leaves for the green note, which is very different from the floral spicy-pepper note in Miracle. • Concept: A magical encounter between two flowers: wild rose and narcissus, sparkling as a pink champagne. The gentle beauty and the wild thing. An interesting clover note provides the fragrance with a fresh, green crispness. The base note is sensual, thanks to the presence of vanilla notes. (www2.lancome.com)

20. Prada - PradaInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBERFLORAL WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Bergamot, Mandarin • Mid: Rose, Pink Pepper, Patchouli • Base: Cistus Labdanum, Benzoin, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Amber • Special ingredient: Sandalwood, Patchouli leaves, Labdanum resin and Benzoin • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Top notes are Italian bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, Sicilian mandarin oil and mimosa absolute. In the middle are rose absolute, schinus molle absolute and patchouli oil Indonesia. The bottom accords are labdanum resinoid, tonka bean absolute, vanilla absolute, sandalwood India and bezoin Siam resinoïd. • Concept: Built as a truly feminine scent and a modern day classic, the Prada fragrance is a modern take on essential oils. It is an amber scent built around four time-honoured essences, each meant to reflect one of four dimensions: sandalwood oil from India is pure; patchouli leaves from Indonesia are addictive; labdanum resin from France is precious and benzoin from Siam is profound. Distribution from August 2004 at Niemann Marcus and Prada stores

21. Pure Poison - DiorInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBERFLORAL WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Bergamot, Mandarin, Petitgrain • Mid: Jasmine,Orange Blossom • Base: Sandalwood,Musk, Amber • Special ingredient: Orange blossom • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Pure Poison's top notes include sweet orange, Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian mandarin. The middle notes are orange flower, jasmine sambac and hydroponic living gardenia. The base notes feature sandalwood, white amber and musks. • Concept: Today, Pure Poison is about celebrating the seductress in modern women. The Poison range is in second position among Dior fragrances after J'Adore. The whole range has been repackaged with this new launch. (www.dior.com)

22. Rosamor - Oscar de la RentaInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: FLORAL FRUITY • Olfactive Description • Top: Mandarin, Muguet • Mid: Gardenia, Rose, Ylang-Ylang • Base: Sandalwood, Tonka Bean • Special ingredient: White flowers • Olfactive Description Trade Press: It opens with fruity floral notes of Italian mandarin and muguet, warmed by a heart of ylang-ylang, Indian tuberose heliotrope, rose and gardenia. The base is a sensuous mix of sandalwood and tonka bean. • Concept: Rosamor, the seventh scent by Oscar de la Renta, is derived from the Spanish words meaning flower and love. He says that he wants Rosamor to be a scent that women fall in love with. "Women may say, I don't need a new fragrance, but I have fallen in love with it".

23. Touch of Pink - LacosteInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBERFLORAL WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Grapefruit, Orange, Aromatic, Coriander Leaves • Mid: Jasmine, Aldehydic • Base: Aqueous,Sandalwood, Musk, Vanilla • Special ingredient: Orange • Olfactive Description Trade Press: A perfume that blends energy, femininity and sensuality. A floral heart of jasmine and violet. Lively, fruity touches (orange, carrot) and a sweet, woodsy close that is both gentle and persistent at the same time.  • Bottle Designer: Sophie Loir (Sylvie de France) • Concept: Lacoste Touch of Pink was created to capture the idea of living every moment to the fullest and the joy of chasing after new sensations.The colour is meant to convey spirit and vitality, in line with the scent's positioning in a category centred on energy and Lacoste's sporting heritage. Target : women between 16-24 years old. (www.lacoste.com)

24. Visit for Woman - AzzaroInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBERY FLORAL WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Bitter Orange Leaves, Green • Mid: Rose, Jasmine • Base: Cedarwood, Animal, Leather, Spicy, Coumarine • Special ingredient: Rose, Jasmine, Mandarin • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Floral - Woody - Ambery : a fresh and spicy top note (pimento and bigarade leaves) followed by a floral middle note (Indian jasmine and peppered rose from Bulgaria (abs & E.O.) and a woody and leather base (cashmeran, patchouli, tonka beans, benzoin) background. • Bottle designer: Federico Restrepo • Concept: The counterpart to the men’s fragrance which launched last year, Visit for Women continues the seduction. While the ad campaign for the men’s scent is about a man’s encounter with a mysterious unseen woman, the ad for Visit for Women reveals her identity.The two scenarios play off against each other creating a true connection between the fragrances. (www.azzaroparis.com)

25. Men's Fragrances

26. B*Men - MuglerInternational, August 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY SPICY • Olfactive Description • Top: Liquorice, Spicy • Mid: Spicy • Base: Woody, Vetyver, Amber • Special ingredient: Rhubarb • Olfactive Description Trade Press: With its fruity, spicy notes blended with rhubarb, the scent delivers a stunning new energy. The fragrance’s architecture was constructed from sensual, luminous sequoia wood, reinforced with amber and dry wood notes. • Bottle designer: Thierry Mugler • Concept: This new essence for men is inspired by Thierry Mugler’s childhood passion for comic books and superheroes. And so, a few years after the successful launch of A*Men, comes the amazing B*Men, the second hero of this fantastic saga. A character with incredible powers, the champion of a world in danger. The fragrance aims to be more rhythmic and dynamic than A*Men. While preserving the same geometric shapes, it adopts a new colour scheme: red and khaki.  (www.thierrymugler.fr)

27. Beyond Paradise Men - Estée LauderUSA, August 2004 • Olfactive Family: HESPERIDIC WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Mandarin, Agrest • Mid: Lavender, Sage, Tarragon, Thyme • Base: Woody, Aqueous, Musky • Special ingredient: Buchu • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The scent opens with notes of Eden's Mist, a watery, fresh ingredient captured from the biome; jacticaba fruit, a tart Brazilian ingredient; Eden Buchu, a green, slightly citrus element and an ingredient the team called the Wave Accord: a blend of mint, mandarin and mousse de mer. The heart of the fragrance is a Mediterranean accord, a blend of lavender, Provencal sage, tarragon and thyme absolute, and cistus, a balsamic woody-smelling element. The drydown is made up of Eden vetyver and golden Melaleuca bark, both captured from the Eden Project's biomes. Beechwood, oakmoss and Indonesian patchouli, all add richness. • Bottle Designer: John Fling • Concept: Targeting men aged 18-34, Beyond Paradise Men is based on exotic ingredients obtained from a partnership with the Eden Project, the largest conservatory in the world. Men, nature, and women are key to men’s idea of fantasy and Beyond Paradise is an attempt to speak to men’s desire to escape. (www.esteelauder.com) (www.eden-project.co.uk)

28. Burberry Brit for Men - BurberryUSA/Europe, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBER FLORAL SPICY • Olfactive Description: • Top: Bergamot, Green Mandarin, Cardamom, Ginger • Mid: Wild Rose, Nutmeg, Cedarwood • Base: Woody, Tonka Bean, Vanilla • Special ingredient: Ginger • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The fragrance's top note is green and mandarin, freshly cut ginger, bergamot, and cardamom, while the midrange is a mix of wild roses and cedar wood. The base note is made from oriental wood, grey musk and tonka bean. • Bottle designer: Fabien Baron • Concept: "What we had in mind was a guy with a scruffy elegance, sexy, bohemian, but still approachable. We had the young Mick Jagger in mind." The face of the new campaign is British actor and Oxford graduate Hugh Dancy. Sitting in front of a 1968 Aston Martin, elegantly dressed in a pinstriped Burberry suit, he looks like a 70’s rock star, and embodies to perfection the laid-back, elegant spirit of this new scent for men.  (www.inter-parfums.com)

29. Incanto pour Homme - FerragamoDuty Free, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY AMBER • Olfactive Description • Top: Lemon, Bigarade, Verbena, Aromatic • Mid: Geranium • Base: Leather, Sandalwood, Musk • Special ingredient: Cypress • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Incanto pour Homme is a member of the woody amber olfactive family. The scent has a strong flavour of a woody heart note of Tuscan cypress, a bow to the designer's Florentine identity. The cypress is combined with top notes including Sicilian bigarade and bamboo leaf and bottom notes of Indonesian sandalwood and white musk. • Bottle designer: Tap by Serge Mansau • Concept: Incanto pour Homme is faithful to Salvatore Ferragamo's roots with an Italian aspect of innovation in pairing contrasting raw materials of Tuscan cypress with the modernity of bamboo leaves. (www.ferragamo.com)

30. L’Eau Bleue pour Homme - Issey MiyakeEurope, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY HESPERIDIC • Olfactive Description • Top: Star Anise, Mandarin • Mid: Spicy, Agrest (Lavender, Rosemary) • Base: Leather, Patchouli, Musky, Ambrette Seed, Palmarosa • Special ingredient: Star Anise • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The fragrance was built as an "olfactive spiral" instead of a pyramid. A sparkling top note with tangerine, rosemary, citronella and star anise. The mid note is absolute May Rose, palmarosa and capucine. The background is patchouli, sandalwood and ambrette. • Bottle designer: Fabien Baron (Baron & Baron Agency) • Concept: L'Eau Bleue d'Issey Pour Homme was inspired by the elements and is described as a symbol of water, life energy, purity and love. The blue invites you plunge right into the bottle. L’Eau Bleue invites you to “Immerse yourself in blue…colours that come together in watery depths” states the company.

31. L’Instant pour Homme - GuerlainInternational, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBERHESPERIDIC • Olfactive Description • Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Star Anise • Mid: Spicy, Pepper • Base: Amber, Patchouli, Vanilla • Special ingredient: Patchouli • Olfactive Description Trade Press: A fresh, citrus fruit, spicy (star anise) top note. The heart is sensual with jasmine, sandalwood, tea lapsong and cocoa beans. The background is patchouli. • Bottle designer: L.O.V.E • Concept: L’Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme launches this year as the companion to last year’s women’s version. The fragrance is “the perfect mate” for the women’s as it completes the story about a couple. The women’s side was about the moment when everything changes, the men’s talks about taking action to change life. (www.guerlain.com)

32. Magnetismfor Men- EscadaInternational, October 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY AMBER • Olfactive Description • Top: Spicy, Shinus Molle, Saffron • Mid: Cedarwood, Lavender • Base: Amber, Vanilla, Tobacco, Sandalwood, Leather • Special ingredient: Shinus molle • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Its spicy top notes include shinus and saffron, while notes of cedar, sandalwood and leather are at its heart. The scent's base features notes of tolu balm, amber and musk. • Bottle designer: Nicosia Creative Expresso • Concept: Magnetism for men was inspired by the seduction and attraction that some men exude, a sort of magnetism. The scent is being introduced as the mate to last year's Magnetism for women and is meant to fuel the development of the Escada men's beauty business. (www.escada.com)

33. Pure for Men - Jil SanderGermany, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY SPICY • Olfactive Description • Top: Spicy, slight Banana effect • Mid: Juniper Berry, Elemi • Base: Dry Woods, Aqueous, Musky, Vanilla • Special ingredient: Elemi • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Described as a scent for every day, the fragrance starts with mandarin, juniper berry and spicy elemi. It has a rounded accord of white musk, watery bamboo and what Lancaster calls a 'pure air' molecule. It then moves into mahogany, sandalwood and vanilla bean. • Bottle designer: Fabien Baron (Baron & Baron Agency) • Concept: A year after Pure for Women, Jil Sander launches a male companion. Described as a scent for every day, Pure for Men iselegant, with a simple way of being convincing, without any thrill nor exaggeration.

34. Reaction for Men - Kenneth ColeUSA, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY FRUITY • Olfactive Description • Top: Grapefruit, Mandarin, Green Apple • Mid: Muguet • Base: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Musk • Special ingredient: Melon and green apple • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Reaction is described as a citrus green woody fragrance with top notes of lime, melon rind and green apple. Middle notes include muguet and watermelon. Bottom notes consist of musk, patchouli and sandalwood. • Bottle designer: Chad Lavigne • Concept: Like the Reaction clothing line, on which the new scent is based, the Reaction fragrance has a casual positioning and accessible price. For those men who love scooter rides, snowboarding getaways, electronic music and trendy fashion. (www.kennethcole.com)

35. Unisex Fragrances

36. Chêne - Salon du Palais Royal/Serge LutensFrance, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY AROMATIC • Olfactive Description • Top: Fresh, Fruity, Rum • Mid: Aromatic, Thyme • Base: Woody,Fir Balsam, Cade, Tar • Special ingredient: Oak, Rum • Olfactive Description Trade Press: An intensely sensual, highly comfortable woodsy essence. The oak note is reinforced with resinous and spicy black thyme, plus the almost smoky scent of silver birch bark, a rum note and an undergrowth-and-tonka-bean closing. An extraordinary success.  • Bottle Designer: Serge Lutens • Concept: After Fumerie Turque, the Shiseido salons at Paris’s Palais Royal have once again launched an emotional fragrance evocative of wonderful tales and rare ingredients. Orchestrated by the house’s own creator, Serge Lutens, the oak, the tree that is a symbol of strength from fairy tales to Richard the Lionheart, here becomes an elixir of bold sensuality. A confident scent in which woods, resins and balms are transcended. A rare essence for men and women to share.  (www.salons-shiseido.com)

37. Daim Blond - Serge LutensFrance, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: CHYPRE FLORAL • Olfactive Description • Top: Cardamom • Mid: Orris, Jasmine • Base: Musk, Heliotrope • Special ingredient: Orris • Olfactive Description Trade Press: A rare and delicate approach to leather. Spicy, musky, creamy. With the creator’s ever-present desire to offer his clients only the best raw materials. Here we find Pallida Orris, Ceylonese cardamom and hawthorn blossom.  • Bottle Designer: The house bottle, rectangular, pared down and refined. As the first product in the new ‘High Concentration Eaux de Parfum’, Daim Blond is dressed in new colours: black case, black label.  • Concept: Serge Lutens loves the rare materials that he crafts with delicacy, taking the time to transform each one into a masterpiece. And so Daim Blond was born. The name alone (it means white suede) offers the promise of a magical olfactory voyage. Creamy, downy, a sensation at the limit of your skin, where touch and smell seem to meet and blend into one. A rare and intense (with 20%, instead of the usual 15) moment to share between a man and a woman.  (www.shiseido.co.jp)

38. L’Eau des Vanilliers - L’OccitaneFrance, November 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBER FLORAL • Olfactive Description • Top: Ylang, Freesia, White Orchid • Mid: Jasmine, Vanilla • Base: Amber, Musk, Clove Bud • Special ingredient: Vanilla • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The fragrance contains notes of ylang-ylang, freesia, vanilla absolute and jasmine. • Bottle Designer: In-house • Concept: L'Occitane introduces consumers to the Fragrance Merchant with the launch, this autumn of L'Occitane Vanilla (one of 5) a new and delectable scent. Many are surprised to know that vanilla comes from the pods of an orchid. The flowers of this rare and special plant last only a brief time, and require meticulous hand pollination. The vanilla scent recalls our early childhood and is a symbol of a sweet gourmet moment. Approximately 25% of women's fragrances are composed using vanilla, representing an important contribution to the scent world. (www.loccitane.com)

39. Timbuktu - L’Artisan Parfumeur France, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY SPICY • Olfactive Description • Top: Green Mango, Spices • Mid: Coffee Bush Flower, Karo Karounde • Base: Cumin, Myrrh, Patchouli, Vetyver, Musk, Incense, Vanilla • Special ingredient: Woods • Olfactive Description Trade Press: A unisex fragrance that has spice in the top, heart and base notes and exudes wild flower scents and smoked woods. An unusual woodsy fragrance, both dense and sensual, dry and spellbinding. The opening blends the freshness of green mango with the heat of peppery spices. The heart is wild, a nectar of frankincense, papyrus smoke and the bewitchingly spicy karo karounde blossom. The earthy closing speaks in tones of patchouli leaves, myrrh and benzoin resins, and vetyver root. Perfect for anyone, male or female, who enjoys woodsy scents.  • Bottle Designer: Federico Restrepo • Concept: Timbuktu invites us to discover the secret smells of African culture. In Mali, people still practice the ancestral art of wusulan. They concoct a magical salve, with scents of wood, spices, resins and roots. After first letting it macerate, they then let the potion boil away, while their skin absorbs the richly scented swirls of smoke. Thus was born Timbuktu, a heady and arousing scent, at once savage and sophisticated. A magical potion for men and women to share. (www.artisan-parfumeur.com)

40. Paired Fragrances

41. Aigner Black for Woman - AignerInternational, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBER FLORAL WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Lime, Aromatic • Mid: Rose, Incense • Base: Cedarwood, Leather, Smoky, Vanilla • Special ingredient: Vanilla • Olfactive Description Trade Press: A citrus cocktail of bergamot, mandarin, rose, aniseed, sandalwood and vanilla • Bottle Designer: Fabien Baron (Baron & Baron Agency) • Concept: Aigner, famous for its leather goods, launched a new leather-inspired fragrance duo, Black for Man and for Woman. Black is the second line to launch under the Aigner fragrance umbrella following last year’s Leather. Black is designed to be modern, trendy and “cool”. The pair of fragrances are targeted to hipsters in their early to mid thirties.

42. Aigner Black for Man - AignerInternational, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY HESPERIDIC • Olfactive Description • Top: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Orange • Mid: Pine, Mint • Base: Cedarwood, Leather, Smoky , Moss • Special ingredient: Leather • Olfactive Description Trade Press: Aigner Black for Man contains bergamot, orange, grapefruit, wild pine, black musk, tonka bean, styrax and leather. • Bottle Designer: Fabien Baron (Baron & Baron Agency) • Concept: Aigner, famous for its leather goods, launched a new leather-inspired fragrance duo, Black for Man and for Woman. Black is the second line to launch under the Aigner fragrance umbrella following last year’s Leather. Black is designed to be modern, trendy and “cool”. The pair of fragrances are targeted to hipsters in their early to mid thirties.

43. London Woman - Paul SmithInternational, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: AMBER FLORAL WOODY • Olfactive Description • Top: Mandarin, Raspberry • Mid: Jasmine, Violet • Base: Sandalwood, Orris, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Powdery • Special ingredient: Patchouli • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The women's fragrance has patchouli at its centre. Top notes are of lime, neroli, lilac leaf, jasmine, heliotrope, aniseed, vanilla and fresh syringa and the drydown is of amber and green woods. • Bottle Designer: Pierre Dinand • Concept: With his latest fragrance duo, Paul Smith has bottled everything he loves about his hometown, London.Inspired by the electric vibe of London's music scene in the late Sixties, it is the 3rd Paul Smith duo fragrance after Paul Smith and Extreme. (www.paulsmith.co.uk)

44. London Man– Paul SmithInternational, September 2004 • Olfactive Family: WOODY SPICY • Olfactive Description • Top: Lime, Anise • Mid: Spicy • Base: Amber, Cedarwood • Special ingredient: Violet • Olfactive Description Trade Press: The Paul Smith London men's scent is built around a vetyver heart. It has top notes of green mandarin, violet flowers and leaves, mint, jasmine and lavender, and a drydown of vintage brandy, Australian sandalwood, tonka beans, and amber. • Bottle Designer: Pierre Dinand • Concept: With his latest fragrance duo, Paul Smith has bottled everything he loves about his hometown, London.Inspired by the electric vibe of London's music scene in the late Sixties, it is the 3rd Paul Smith duo fragrance after Paul Smith and Extreme. (www.paulsmith.co.uk)

45. Conclusions

46. Olfactive Trends • On the women’s side, most of the recent launches belong to the floral fruity/woody and amber floral families. Most novelties this semester have a fruity facet, whether they are smooth (Armani Mania, Apparition, Pure Poison) or fresh (Miracle, Love in Paris, Infiniment). On the other hand, amber fragrances are usually associated with a discreet sensuality, they are floral or powdery (Cinema, Max Mara, Barbara Bui). • Men’s fragrance launches are mainly represented in the woody aromatic and woody spicy olfactive families. On the woody side, Paul Smith’s London for Man has an interesting amber and green facet and Burberry Brit Man is one of the rare amber masculine fragrances this season. • We seem to have finished with citrus fruity top notes. Perfumers are working on green, plant notes which go through the heart of the fragrance (cf. Blush, Armani Mania). This freshness is also transmitted through an anise note in l’Instant de Guerlain pour homme, or in Paul Smith’s London for Woman, while Mugler’s B*Men starts with a rhubarb note.

47. Olfactive Trends • We observe a lighter approach to the “foody” trend with dry fruit notes, green fruits such as rhubarb (B* Men) and kiwi, liquors (Apparition, Echo Woman), honey, vanilla and chocolate. • There is a search for quality and density of fragrances illustrated by interesting use of raw materials, from which we conclude a fourfold classification for this year’s launches: • Fashion Accessories: Pure Poison, Iris Nobile, Cinema, Love in Paris, Blush and Infiniment • Floral Lightness: Miracle So Magic!, Touch of Pink, Visit for Woman • Touch Sensation: Armani Mania, Max Mara, Hermès Hermessence’s new quartet (not included in this notebook) • The Appeal of the Flesh: Apparition, Crystal Noir, My Torrente. Furthermore, many highly selective fragrances (with restricted distribution) are being launched in Europe – Hermessence by Hermès(4), Cologne by Dior(3), Prada Edt(4), with the intention of insuring the brand’s image and singularity rather than realising a significant turnover. In other words, they are using the intrinsic value of the brand.

48. Women’s Olfactive Mapping L: Limited Edition TR: Travel Retail Bold: Included in notebook

49. Women’s Olfactive Mapping L: Limited Edition TR: Travel Retail Bold: Included in notebook

50. Women’s Olfactive Mapping L: Limited Edition TR: Travel Retail Bold: Included in notebook