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OBJECTIVES

OBJECTIVES. After studying Chapter 14, the reader should be able to: Describe the repair operations that are performed with the transmission in the vehicle. Determine the correct procedure for the in-vehicle repairs. Make in-vehicle repairs in an approved manner.

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OBJECTIVES

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  1. OBJECTIVES After studying Chapter 14, the reader should be able to: • Describe the repair operations that are performed with the transmission in the vehicle. • Determine the correct procedure for the in-vehicle repairs. • Make in-vehicle repairs in an approved manner. • Repair damaged threads in an aluminum casting. • Perform the ASE tasks related to in-vehicle transmission/transaxle repair.

  2. INTRODUCTION • A technician should repair a transmission problem in a thorough manner, but also as quickly and efficiently as possible. • Many transmissions require off-vehicle or bench repair; the transmission must be removed from the vehicle, repaired, and then replaced. • In-vehicle service operations include those described in Chapter 11, plus other repairs depending on the make and model.

  3. MANUAL SHIFT LINKAGE, INTERLOCK, AND SEAL • The manual shift linkage attaches to a lever on the outside of the transmission case. • A series of rods, levers, or a cable and housing assembly may be used. • The cable connects to a shift lever using a metal clip or plastic grommet

  4. FIGURE 14-1 Shift linkage, both rod and lever and cable styles, can be adjusted, repaired, or replaced as necessary.(Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation) MANUAL SHIFT LINKAGE, INTERLOCK, AND SEAL

  5. FIGURE 14-2 Access to the manual control shaft seal is obtained by removing the shift lever (a) and park-neutral position switch (b). The seal (arrow) can now be removed and replaced. (Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc.) MANUAL SHIFT LINKAGE, INTERLOCK, AND SEAL

  6. FIGURE 14-3 A seal can be driven out by catching the edge with a sharp chisel. Another removal method is to use a slide hammer that is threaded into the seal’s metal cage. Be careful to not damage the seal bore when using either method. MANUAL SHIFT LINKAGE, INTERLOCK, AND SEAL

  7. FIGURE 14-4 After the manual lever is removed, the manual shaft seal can be removed and replaced. The new seal should be driven in using a seal driver (B.Vi FM-34) to prevent damage. (Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation) MANUAL SHIFT LINKAGE, INTERLOCK, AND SEAL

  8. FIGURE 14-5 A cutaway view of a metal-clad seal. Note that the seal must make a static seal with the case and a dynamic seal with the shaft. LIP SEAL REPLACEMENT • A standard metal-backed lip seal must seal against two different surfaces: a dynamic seal with the moveable shaft at the inner bore and a static seal where it fits into its bore.

  9. FIGURE 14-6 This lip seal has a coating of sealant on its metal backing. Before installing an uncoated seal, a sealant should be applied to this area. LIP SEAL REPLACEMENT

  10. FIGURE 14-7 A special tool is used to remove the extension housing seal (a), and a seal driver is used to install the seal (b). Note how the driver fits the seal so it can be driven straight into the bore with no damage to the sealing surfaces. (a is courtesy of Chrysler Corporation; b is courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc.) LIP SEAL REPLACEMENT

  11. FIGURE 14-8 The sealing lip should be protected when installing a seal over a shaft. A piece of slick paper or plastic can be used to cover the sharp edges on the shaft. TECH TIP • When installing a seal over a shaft, it is good practice to protect the sealing lip with a seal protector, especially if there are any rough or sharp edges on the shaft. • A piece of slick paper wrapped around the shaft will work as a seal protector in many cases.

  12. FIGURE 14-9 Removal of this exterior throttle lever, E-clip, and washer allows access to the small seal at the throttle shaft. (Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation) TV LINKAGE AND SEAL • In most transmissions, the throttle valve (TV) cable is a cable and housing assembly, and its replacement is essentially the same as a shift cable. • In other transmissions, the TV cable is attached to a lever on a shaft that extends into the transmission, just like the shift lever and shaft.

  13. FIGURE 14-10 An O-ring seals the throttle cable where it enters the transmission case. (Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc.) TV LINKAGE AND SEAL

  14. VACUUM MODULATOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT • Most vacuum modulators are held in the transmission by a bolt and retaining clamp. • Removing the clamp allows the modulator to be pulled out of the transmission case. • Some transmissions use a control rod or pin to connect the modulator stem to the valve. • To R&R a vacuum modulator, you should:

  15. FIGURE 14-11 This modulator is secured using a clamp. Removing the bolt and clamp allows the modulator to be removed (a). The modulator valve can be removed using a magnet (b). VACUUM MODULATOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  16. FIGURE 14-12 When a modulator is replaced, the retaining bolt should be tightened to the correct torque. VACUUM MODULATOR REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  17. FIGURE 14-13 This bolt was too short for the job, and when it was tightened, it pulled the threads out of the aluminum case. ALUMINUM THREAD REPAIR • Transmission cases and extension housings are made from relatively soft, cast aluminum. • Bolt threads begin to wear after a few uses, and aluminum threads easily pull out if the bolt is overtightened or if too short of a bolt is used. • To install a coil-type thread insert, you should:

  18. FIGURE 14-14 The thread contact distance (CD) of a bolt should equal about twice the diameter of the threads (D) to prevent thread stripping. ALUMINUM THREAD REPAIR • A bolt is usually designed to enter the threaded hole a distance that is about 1 1/2 to 2 times the bolt diameter.

  19. FIGURE 14-15 Step 1 in repairing damaged threads is to drill a properly sized hole for the special tap (a). Step 2 is to use the special tap to cut new threads (b). Step 3 is to put the thread insert on the installing tool (c). Step 4 is to screw the insert into the new threads (d). The final step (not shown) is to break off the insert’s installing tang. ALUMINUM THREAD REPAIR

  20. FIGURE 14-16 The damaged threads (left) have been repaired (right) by installing a thread insert. They are better than new because of the hardness of the insert. ALUMINUM THREAD REPAIR

  21. FIGURE 14-17 Electronic components (both speed sensors, both switches, and the solenoid assembly) can be removed and replaced in-vehicle. (Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation) ELECTRICAL COMPONENT REMOVAL, REPAIR, AND REPLACEMENT

  22. FIGURE 14-18 Solenoids can be attached to the valve body. Detent Spring (Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc.) ELECTRICAL COMPONENT REMOVAL, REPAIR, AND REPLACEMENT

  23. FIGURE 14-19 If replacing the cooler lines, use care to not bend them. The fit in some vehicles is quite precise. (Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation) COOLER LINE AND FITTING REPAIR

  24. FIGURE 14-20 The cooler line fittings thread into the case (a). These fittings normally have a National Pipe Thread (NPT) where they thread into the case and a flare or other style of fitting for the line connection (b). COOLER LINE AND FITTING REPAIR

  25. FIGURE 14-21 This cooler line fitting uses a push connector. Note the release tool. (Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation) COOLER LINE AND FITTING REPAIR

  26. FIGURE 14-22 Cooler line damage can be repaired by removing the damaged section. A piece of steel tubing can be installed using flare (a) or compression unions (b). A hose can also be used; it is a good practice to make a small ridge at the ends of the metal tube to keep the hose from slipping off the tube (c). TECH TIP • Steel cooler lines have been successfully repaired by cutting out the damaged portion, flaring the cut ends, and using a flare union to rejoin the lines.

  27. VALVE BODY REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT • There are many possibilities for valve body problems, and the valve body is removed for repairing these problems. • This task is rather messy because removing the valve body opens many fluid passages that will begin draining. • To remove a valve body, you should: • To replace a valve body, you should do the following:

  28. FIGURE 14-23 Two flare-nut wrenches (a) should be used to loosen a tube nut (b). Use of a standard open-end wrench can result in a rounded-off tube nut; using a single wrench can result in a twisted line (c). (a is courtesy of Snap-on Tools) TECH TIP • When removing and replacing a cooler line, two flarenut or tube-nut wrenches should be used

  29. FIGURE 14-24 As the valve body is removed, you should be ready to catch some check balls, filter screens, or accumulator springs. VALVE BODY REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  30. FIGURE 14-25 The oil pan (a) and filter (b) are removed from many transmissions to gain access to the valve body. Examine the pan magnet (c) for metal chips and particles. (Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc.) VALVE BODY REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  31. FIGURE 14-26 As the valve body is removed from many Torqueflite transmissions, the output shaft might need to be rotated so you can pull the park control rod (arrow) past the park pawl. VALVE BODY REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  32. FIGURE 14-27 Save the old valve body gasket to compare it with the new to ensure that you install the correct gasket. VALVE BODY REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  33. FIGURE 14-28 The No. 1 gasket, transfer plate, and No. 2 gasket, along with any check balls, screens, and springs, must be positioned properly as the valve body is installed. (Courtesy of Toyota Motor Sales USA, Inc.) VALVE BODY REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  34. FIGURE 14-29 Two guide pins are used to ensure alignment of the gaskets, spacer plate, and valve body. VALVE BODY REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  35. FIGURE 14-31 Valve body bolts should be tightened in the correct order. Note that this is a spiraling pattern that goes outward from the center. FIGURE 14-30 This valve body is secured with bolts of four different lengths; bolts of the correct length must be placed into the proper hole. VALVE BODY REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT

  36. SERVO AND ACCUMULATOR PISTON, COVER, AND SEAL SERVICE • A faulty servo piston or cover seal can cause a loss of servo apply pressure and band slippage. • A faulty accumulator piston or cover seal can cause poor shift quality. • A bad cover seal will leak. • The service procedures for servos and accumulators are similar. • A leaking servo or accumulator cover can be removed and the seal replaced. • With the cover removed, the piston and spring can be easily removed and serviced.

  37. FIGURE 14-32 These four accumulators are held in the case by the valve body. SERVO AND ACCUMULATOR PISTON, COVER, AND SEAL SERVICE

  38. FIGURE 14-33 The special tool (arrow) compresses the servo spring and holds the cover inward while the retaining ring is removed. The punch is inserted through a hole to help remove the retaining ring. TECH TIP • Depending on the transmission, a special tool is sometimes required to keep the spring compressed so the cover can be removed.

  39. FIGURE 14-34 The enlarged views of the inner CV joints show that the engine and transaxle are misaligned; they should be moved toward the right. REMOVE, REPLACE, AND ALIGN POWERTRAIN MOUNTS • Faulty power train (engine and transmission) mounts are replaced by lifting the engine and/or transmission slightly to remove the weight, and then removing the mounting bolts. • The old mount is then removed and the new mount is installed.

  40. EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL AND BUSHING SERVICE • The extension housing seal and bushing can be removed and replaced with the transmission in the vehicle. • In some cases the entire extension housing is removed for bearing, seal, governor, speedometer gear, or park mechanism service. • A similar procedure is used to R&R the output shaft seal and bushing of a transaxle. • To remove and replace a transmission extension housing seal, you should:

  41. FIGURE 14-35 It is a good practice to place alignment marks on the axle flange and rear U-joint so they can be installed in the same position. EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL AND BUSHING SERVICE

  42. FIGURE 14-36 This set of plugs is used to close transmission drive shaft openings (a). A different set of plugs is used for FWD transaxles (b). (Courtesy of ATEC Trans-Tool and Cleaning Systems) TECH TIP • ATF will begin leaking out of the drive shaft opening. • You should either raise the rear of the vehicle enough to stop the flow or place a container to catch the flow. • A stopoff tool or old U-joint slip yoke can be used to stop the fluid leak

  43. FIGURE 14-37 This seal is being removed using an old screwdriver. A chisel is a better tool for this. (Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation) EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL AND BUSHING SERVICE

  44. FIGURE 14-38 Several styles of pullers are available to remove the rear bushing with the transmission in the vehicle. (Courtesy of OTC) EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL AND BUSHING SERVICE

  45. FIGURE 14-39 This tool will hold the bushing so it can be easily driven into place using a hammer. (Courtesy of OTC) EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL AND BUSHING SERVICE

  46. FIGURE 14-40 The cavity of this seal has been filled with petroleum jelly to hold the garter spring in position during installation. TransJel™ and petroleum jelly will melt and mix with ATF when the transmission gets hot. TECH TIP • When driving a seal into place, it is possible for the seal’s garter spring to pop out of position. • Some technicians fill the seal cavity with petroleum jelly to help hold the spring in position

  47. EXTENSION HOUSING REMOVAL, RWD TRANSMISSION • The extension housing is removable on most RWD transmissions. • Depending on the transmission, extension housing removal allows replacement of the extension housing gasket, seal, and bushing. • The governor, speedometer gear, and park mechanism are also accessible for service with the extension housing removed. • To remove an extension housing, you should: • To replace an extension housing, you should:

  48. FIGURE 14-41 A transmission jack can be used to support the transmission so the rear transmission mount and crossmember can be removed. (Courtesy of Chrysler Corporation) EXTENSION HOUSING REMOVAL, RWD TRANSMISSION

  49. FIGURE 14-42 After the extension housing bolts have been removed (a), the extension housing can be removed from the transmission (b). EXTENSION HOUSING REMOVAL, RWD TRANSMISSION

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