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GEOL 1307 Physical Geology

GEOL 1307 Physical Geology. Exercise #16 Evolution of Coastal Landforms. Waves. Wavelength Crest Trough Amplitude Period Frequency. Ocean Waves. The Water Isn’t Moving (how ocean waves work) Refraction (why ocean waves break). Wave Erosion. Wave-Cut Notch Sea-Cliffs

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GEOL 1307 Physical Geology

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  1. GEOL 1307 Physical Geology Exercise #16 Evolution of Coastal Landforms

  2. Waves • Wavelength • Crest • Trough • Amplitude • Period • Frequency

  3. Ocean Waves • The Water Isn’t Moving (how ocean waves work) • Refraction (why ocean waves break)

  4. Wave Erosion • Wave-Cut Notch • Sea-Cliffs • Wave-Cut Platforms • Sea-Stacks

  5. Sediment Transport • Waves • Longshore Current • Tides

  6. Depositional Features • Beaches • Barrier Islands • Peninsulas • Spits • Bars • Hummocks

  7. Barrier Island Formation

  8. Bays and Wetlands • Estuaries • Bays • Lagoons • Marshes • Salt Marsh • Brackish Marsh • Fresh Marsh • Swamps • Coastal Prairie

  9. Evolution of Coastal Landscapes • Emergent Coasts • Submergent Coasts

  10. Types of Coastlines • Siliciclastic Coasts • Humid • Sediment Supply • Carbonate Coasts • Arid • Evaporation

  11. Stages of Coastal Modification • Initial Stage of Shoreline Modification\ • Intermediate Stage of Shoreline Modification • Terminal Stage of Shoreline Modification

  12. Sequence Stratigraphy • Transgressive Sea-Level • Submergent Coastlines • Erosional Features • Regressive Sea-Level • Emergent Coastlines • Aggradation

  13. The Future of the Gulf Coast • Global Warming • Sea-Level Rise • Barrier Island Migration • Environmental Engineering

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