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Fabrics

Fabrics. Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02. Fabric Construction: Weaving and Knitting. Woven Fabrics. Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles to each other. Plain Weave. Simplest of all weaves Most common Over, under; over, under **broadcloth, gingham, poplin muslin, and many others.

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Fabrics

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  1. Fabrics Apparel 2 – obj. 1.02

  2. Fabric Construction: Weaving and Knitting

  3. Woven Fabrics • Interlacing 2 sets of yarns at right angles to each other

  4. Plain Weave • Simplest of all weaves • Most common • Over, under; over, under • **broadcloth, gingham, poplin • muslin, and many others

  5. Twill Weave • Diagonal weave • **denim, gabardine • **firm, heavy weave

  6. Satin Weave • Shiny, reflects light • Smooth and slippery • Frays a lot • **lustrous appearance

  7. Leno Weave • Pairs of threads crossed over • Looks “open” • Fruit bags, mosquito netting

  8. Pile Weave • Raised surface • Loopy or furry • Velvet • Corduroy

  9. Knits • Weft – one yarn • Warp – several yarns • Purl – looks the same on both sides Purl Knit Warp Knit Weft Knit

  10. Weft Knit** • Uses one yarn • **Single knit, ribbed and jersey

  11. Double Knit • 2 yarns and 2 sets of needles • Heavier and sturdier • Doesn’t run or ravel

  12. Ribbed Knit • Vertical ribs on front and back • Neck and wrist bands on sweaters

  13. Jersey Knit • Most common knit • Plain, single knit • T-shirts

  14. Tricot Knit • Very fine vertical wales on the right side • Stable knit – lies flat • Doesn’t run or ravel • Lingerie, underwear • Very fast to weave

  15. Raschel Knit • Uses extra yarn to create a pattern

  16. Non-woven • Leather, lace, felt, disposable fabrics • Heat, moisture • Adhesive, bonding • Yarns and layers

  17. Non-woven • Interlocking fibers • Don’t fray or ravel • Flexible • Might tear easily

  18. Felting • Hot washing and drying wool • Shrinks • Soft and fluffy

  19. Interfacing • Very light to very heavy and stiff • Padding (quilting) • Fusible or sew-in

  20. Fabric Finishes • Special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or performance

  21. “Gray Goods” • Before any color or finish is added to the product.

  22. Used to remove impurities in fabric to ensure a “true dye.” Bleaching

  23. Yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting. Good for plaids, checks, and stripes. ** Yarn Dyed

  24. AKA “Stock Dyeing” Natural fibers dyed before spun into yarn Uniform color and good color fastness Fiber Dyed **

  25. Fabric dyed after weaving or knitting Piece Dyed**

  26. Fabric is cut and sewn Entire garment or item is dyed Garment Dyed

  27. Color is transferred to surface of fabric to form a pattern Printing Techniques

  28. Printing pres with circular rollers One for each color Roller

  29. Fast, inexpensive 3500 yards per hour Good for large designs** Rotary Screen

  30. Improves surface feel of fabric Improve comfort and wear ability Texture and Performance Finishes

  31. Raised, Fuzzy Fabric Napping

  32. Extra body and weight Adds Starch Sizing

  33. Weighting • A textured finish applied to make the garment stiffer and heavier looking than it is • Advantage is to use a cheaper lighter weight fabric and make it appear stronger than it really is

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