FVCC Fire Rescue Forcible Entry Part B
Doors • Size-up • Try before you pry • FD key box
Try Before You Pry! If you don’t, make sure you lock the door after you force the door!!
FORCING OR OPENING Breaking door glass • Choose appropriate tool • Stand windward side • Strike top of pane • Hands above point of impact • Clean out frame • Reach inside • Operate lock • Open door
FORCING OR OPENING • Inward swing door – two firefighters • Place fork of Halligan-type bar just above or below lock • Angle tool slightly up or down • Strike tool with flat-head axe • Drive fork past interior door jamb • Move fork to prevent penetrating interior door jamb • Exert pressure toward door, forcing it open
Strike! Strike! Strike!
FORCING OR OPENING • Outward swinging door: Adze End method • Place adze of Halligan-type bar just above or below lock • Strike adze using flat head axe, driving it between door and jamb • Pry down and outward with fork end
FORCING OR OPENING • Double swing doors • Secured by mortise lock • Remove molding between doors • Insert adze between doors • Push down and outward until bolt clears keeper
FORCING OR OPENING • Doors with drop bars (try one of the following): • Insert small narrow tool between doors and lift bar out of stirrup. • Cut triangular hole below bar. Reach in and push bar out of stirrup. • Insert blade of rotary saw between jamb door or between doors and cut bar.
FORCING OR OPENING • Tempered plate glass door • Break glass with pick of pick-head axe • Strike bottom corner • Clear remaining glass from door • Last resort for access
FORCING OR OPENING • Overhead door • Residential • Break panel or window • Reach in and unlock the locking mechanism • Secure door to prevent closing • If automatic opener: • Hold door in closed position • Break out panel near mechanism • Reach in with tool to grab release cord and pull
FORCING OR OPENING • Commercial • Manually operated • Chain operated • Electrically powered • To force entry: • Cut or force the locks • Attack the locks • Cut through the gate by cutting a large inverted V-shaped cut in gate with power saw which allows slats to be pulled toward center and removed
FORCING OR OPENING • Windows • Double hung/checkrail windows • Insert blade of axe or prying tool under center of bottom sash • Pry upward forcing screws out of lock • Open window
(8) No. 6 screws hold the locking mechanism in place. (1) Typical replacement-style energy-efficient window (EEW): frame assembly with two moveable sashes. This window has double-pane, polycarbonate glazing, and tilt-in sashes. (Photos 1-6 by Linda Andersen.) (7) After removing the screen, pry up the bottom sash; the screws will strip from the sash. (Photos 7-11 by author.)
(9) A sharp, downward impact will cause the ventilation latches to fail. (10) Pulling down both sashes will give you access to the slides that will release the top of the sash from the frame and enable you to tilt them into the structure. 11) The window is almost fully opened.
FORCING OR OPENING • Hinged/casement windows • Break lowest pane of glass and clean out • Force or cut screen • Reach in and upward to unlock • Operate crank or levers at bottom • Completely remove screen and enter
FORCING OR OPENING • Projected/factory windows: best method is to seek another entry point. • Awning and jalousie windows: select another entry point
FORCING OR OPENING • High security windows • Lexan (try one of the following methods) • Cut using rotary saw with carbide tip • Discharge a carbon dioxide fire extinguisher on window, then strike with pick of axe • Barred or screened windows (try one of the following methods) • Shear off bolt heads, if visible with axe, striking axe with Halligan bar. • Cut bar using rotary saw with metal blade • Cut bar using oxyacetylene torch
FORCING OR OPENING • Horizontal sliding • Insert blade of axe or prying tool at the side center of the moving sash. • Pry towards sash forcing screws out of lock. • Open window. • Fixed • Break glass or other glazing if possible • Most often better to use another entry point
FORCING OR OPENING • Floors • Wood floors • Determine location for hole. • Sound for floor joists • Cut one side of the finished flooring, then the other side by using angle cuts. • Remove flooring or floor covering with the pick of axe. • Cut sub-floor using the same technique • Circular saws, saber saws and chain saws can also be used.
FORCING OR OPENING • Concrete/reinforced concrete floors • Compressed air or electric jackhammers slow, but best means for rescue. • Portable power saws with concrete cutting blade are available. • Special purpose nozzles designed to penetrate masonry and some concrete
FORCING OR OPENING • Vertical barriers • Plaster or gypsum partition walls • Select location • Check for electric plugs and switches • Select forcible entry tools • Locate studs by sounding • Cut along studs (three bays wide) • Remove center stud to enlarge opening • Gain access
FORCING OR OPENING • Brick or concrete walls • Battering ram • Made of iron • Jagged end used for breaking brick or stone • Rounded end used for walls and doors • Power tools • Air chisels, hydraulic spreaders and rotary saws • Cut diamond or triangular shaped hole large enough to pass through • Select metal cutting power saw • Locate utilities • Cut in area away from utilities • Cut along studs, then fold back. If no stud, cut triangle, folding at bottom.
DOOR & WINDOW LOCKING DEVICES • Construction features • Mortise lock • Latch mechanism • Opening device (doorknob, lever, etc) • Dead-bolt feature for added security
DOOR & WINDOW LOCKING DEVICES • Bored (cylindrical) lock • Hole bored in the face of the door for locking mechanism • Hole bored in edge of door to receive latch or bolt • Key-in-knob lock is one type of bored lock • Key way in outside knob • Inside knob may contain key way or button
DOOR & WINDOW LOCKING DEVICES • Rim lock • Surface mounted • Used as an add on lock • Outside cylinder recessed into door • Latch mechanism fastened to inside of door • Strike is mounted to door frame
DOOR & WINDOW LOCKING DEVICES • Padlock • Portable or detachable • Regular padlocks • Shackles of ¼ inch or less • Not case-hardened • Heavy duty • Toe and heel locking • Both ends of shackle are locked • Both sides of shackle must be cut