Mk3 Dash Conversion. By Steve Blakemore (Ste). Quick Pointers. This modification is primarily for Rover mk2 200’s and mk1 400’s. You will need a Dash and wiring for the glove box light from a mk3< Rover 200. What will be covered. Preparation of the MK3 dash Removal of the MK2 dash
Download Policy: Content on the Website is provided to you AS IS for your information and personal use and may not be sold / licensed / shared on other websites without getting consent from its author.While downloading, if for some reason you are not able to download a presentation, the publisher may have deleted the file from their server.
By Steve Blakemore (Ste)
This modification is primarily for Rover mk2 200’s and mk1 400’s.
You will need a Dash and wiring for the glove box light from a mk3< Rover 200.
Preparation of the MK3 dash
Removal of the MK2 dash
Installation of the MK3 dash
Wiring your dash
Dash’s can be bought for anything from £30-£80 depending on where you go and condition. Make sure you have everything, this means trim, wiring and heater vents.
Depending on your interior, there are different colours of dash, most common is the Ash grey one. For half leather Rover interiors
Just been shown are the 2 main dash colours that can be used. ZR dashes can be used, but these are rare and expensive to purchase.
Your dash should be clean and the wiring for the speedo removed. You should have a complete dash as shown here :-
Behind the dash there will be wires coming from the glove box. These will be a red/black and a black wire. These pair will split near to the light unit. You need to cut them off next to the surround where they go into the rest of the loom. All will be explained later.
In this section, I will cover the wiring needed to be done to make the mk3 switch operative
In this section, I will cover the wiring needed to be done to make the mk3 switch operative.
Pointer:- The Hazards block connector will fit directly into the mk3 switch, so there is no need for extra wiring.
Warning :- All wiring should be made secure and safe. Remember to either use crimp connectors or solder and cover with a heat shrink wrap
For the wiring, you will need the mk3 dash switches and the block connector and 4” of loom, as shown in the next photo :-
As you can see, I’ve used wire cutters to take the ends off.
For the heated rear windscreen, the wiring should be cut right next to the connector block for the back of the switch, and then each wire stripped a little except one of the earth’s as this won’t be used and will need taping up so no wire is showing.
Wiring sequence is as follows :-
MK2 loom MK3 loom
Black/Green Green Orange
Once all connected up, make sure all wires are secure and that they will not work lose as a lose wire could start a fire. Use plenty of electrical tape to secure the bundle of wires for the loom together.
Next is the rear fog light. This is where it starts to get a little tricky. There is a way around it though.
The rear fog light on a mk2 uses a relay in the relay module in the centre console. This is controlled by an ON-OFF switch.
The rear fog light on a MK3 is controlled by the MFU (Multi Function Unit) and has an OFF-ON-OFF switch.
Briefly, this means that the mk3 switch will not working with the mk2 loom. So a front fog light switch is used as this is an ON-OFF switch
A front fog light switch is £5.95 from Rover and is part number RYUG101680PMP.
Using the rear fog switch from the mk3, prise the front off carefully. Do the same with the front fog light switch.
Now the new rear fog light switch is ready.
The problem now is that the mk3 plug for the switch won’t fit. Carefully, with a craft knife or a Stanley knife, cut away the ribs on the plug and in the back of the switch.
The plug should now go straight into the back of the switch, if it doesn’t, keep shaving the ribs away till it does. A bit of light grease maybe used to aid the plug in.
Chop connector block off on the mk2 dash. There are 5 wires here.
Strip the ends of the wires off a bit apart from one black wire, as this yet again is another earth that is not needed and much be taped up.
MK2 Loom MK3 Loom
Once those 2 are done, then the centre console can go back on and the switches plugged in. Make sure you pull the connectors through before putting the console back, otherwise you won’t reach them.
The Digital clock is easy enough. It is wire for wire, remember to use a good solid connection, soldering and a heat shrink wrap is ideal.
I would like to thank:-
Roverload/Rovertech members for your patience.
Mom and Dad for letting me store dash after dash in the Shed.
Chris (Smilz) for starting this mass craze.