Parameter of finishing process in knit dyeing

2. Total Textile Process at a Glance

3.  Finishing is a general term which usually refers to treatment on textile fabrics after dyeing or printing.  It increase life and durability of the fabric. By finishing we can maintain fabric shape and size. Finishing accentuate or inhibiti some characteristic of fabric. Impart new characteristic or properties. Finishes may be done by chemically or mechanically. To get good finished quality we should maintain machine parameter or proper chemical recipe. We can improve finished product quality by developing machine parameter or create new and appropriate chemical recipe.

4. •To improve the appearance of the fabric. •To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, stiffening, etc. •To cover faults in the original fabric. •To increase weight of the cloth. •Special properties required for particular uses .

5. Types of finishing The most common classifications: Aesthetic finishes Functional finishes Finishes also classifies:

7. Process Flow Chart of Finishing Process Flow Chart of Finishing Section Section:

8. After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for de-watering. This is the process to remove the water from the fabrics partially by squeezing. Process flow chart: Basic function of the squeezing m/c: To remove the water from the fabric. To control the width of the fabric. To control the length of the fabric. To control the spirality of the fabric. To control the over feeding system. To increase the softness of the fabric. To remove the crease mark of the fabric. Fig: Crossectional view of Bianco Tube Squeezer.

9. • The slitting machine is used in processing fabrics in the open line in the finishing section. Main Parts: *Turn table; *Pulley drive *Squeezing *Beater; *Rope; *De- twister; *Centering unit; *Slitting unit Process flow chart: Machine Functions: •To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering. •Delivered fabric is crease free state. •Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air sprayer. •It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism. •Soften the fabric by applying the softeners. Figure: Passage Diagram of Slitting Machine of Brueckner

10. •The machine is used for removing the residual water contained in the fabric after squeezing by applying heat on the fabric in the machine. •the fabric is feed on the drying net at low over feed speed and the humidity is continuously measured. •Drying is done by applying heat through burner nozzles. Main parts: •Heating chamber •Blower •Synthetic blanket as a conveyor •Folder •Exhaust fan •Steam valve •Conveyer roller •Tension roller Machine Functions: •To dry the fabric with help of steam •To control the shrinkage •To prepare for next subsequent process •To dry tubular and open width fabric without tension. •To remove residual water containing in the fabric.

11. Stenter Stenter Machine Machine: Main Parts & Zones: Back Zone: #Guider ; #Two Baths & Padder or Squeezer; #Auto centering •Stenter is used for open form fabric. It is the heart of open knit finishing sector. Middle Zone: #Over feed regions; #Bianco or Mahlo arrangement; #Chain & clip system; #Chambers (Contains blower, heater, recovery) Front Zone: #Over feed zone ; #Plaiting; #Static electricity remover Machine Functions: •To control the shrinkage •To control the required GSM by overfeed •To control the required dia. •Heat setting •For straighten the fabric •To control bowing & bias (spirality) •For uniform moisture content •Finishing chemical application •Selvedge gumming & cutting Figure : Passage Diagram of Stenter

12. •The treatment of knit fabrics in tubular form on the TUBULAR COMPACTOR meets the exacting standards set by customers Main Machine Parts: •Feed section: Tension control & Metal detector. •Shape: Set according to the dia. of fabric •Steam zone •Take out & Plaiter zone •Compacting Zone: It’s a roller & shoe arrangement & the most important zone which consists of two rollers, the Feed roller (Recarter roller) & the Retard roller. They are heated by Shoe, into which hot thermo-oil runs through. Basic functions of the Tube compactor machine: •To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease). •To control the dia. •To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease). •Width control through a stepless adjustable special tubular fabric spreader driven by variable speed motor for distortion-free fabric guidance. •Steamping with a condensate-free steam box which is easily operated and completely made from stainless stell. •Compacting through two Nomex felt belts. •Calendaring while passing between the felt belt and the heated shrinking rollers. Fig: Cross sectional View of Tube Compactor Machine

13. •Open Width Compactor is suitable for open width knit fabrics to achieve exact dimensional stability and a soft feel. Main Parts of the Machine: •Heating chamber •Blower (2, one at the entry chain zone for uncurling and another at the entry of compacting zone) •ynthetic blanket as a conveyor, •Folder •Exhaust fan •Unpinning cylinder (-40% (+-)40%) •Belt cylinder (-40% ( +-)40%) •Uncurling device at entry of compacting zone. •Sensor •Brush roller Machine Function: •To compact the fabric •To control the shrinkage •To maintain proper width and G.S.M •To make the fabric surface smooth Figure: Passage diagram of Corino Open Compactor

14. •During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness and warmth, as in flannelette. Main parts: •Return drag roller •Pile •Counter pile •Front drag roller •Suction pump •Drum •Plaiter roller Return drag roller Machine Functions: •To obtain a lofty handle effect on fabric. •To obtain fleece appearance. •To create pile on fabric surface. •To produce a heavier surface made of fibers. Plaiter roller Counter Pile pile Feed Delivery Rear drag Front drag Roller Roller Figure : Cross-sectional view of Raising Brush machine

16. •Softening treatment is one of the most important chemical after treatments in the textile industry. •By softening treatment textile can achieve not only soft handle but also: Some smoothness. More flexibility. Drape and Pliability. Antistatic properties. Luster. Soft handle. Types of softeners:

17. Advantages: •Resins have a profound effect on and cause changes in the hand (feel), drapability and physical characteristics of textiles. •They add stiffness to fabrics and are thus used as stiffening agents or to create a firm hand. •Yarns in fabric will be stabilized and will resist shrinkage in laundering. •This finish imparts luster to the cotton. •Increases cotton strength by nearly 25% and improves dye affinity. •It is a method of thickening woollen material to make it more water-resistant

19. •Nanotechnology is an umbrella term covering a wide range of technologies concerned with structures and processes on the nanometric scale. •. Nanotechnology deals with the science and technology at dimensions of roughly 1 to 100 nanometers (1 Billion Nanotechnology = 1metre), although 100 nanometers presently is the practically attainable dimension for textile products and applications. •The Nanotechnology can be used in engineering desired textiles attributes, such as fabric softness, namely, water repellency, fire retardancy, antimicrobial resistance etc in fibers, yarns and fabrics. •Enhancement of textile materials by nanotechnology is expected to become a trillion dollar industry in the next decade, with tremendous economic and ecology benefits. •With the advent of nanotechnology, a new area has developed in the realm of textile finishing.

20. Antimicrobial Finish: • It is a well-known fact that the growth of bacteria and microorganisms in food or water is prevented hen stored in silver vessels due to its antibacterial properties. The antibacterial properties of silver are now scientifically recognized. Silver ions have been spectrum of antimicrobial activities. The method of producing durable silver containing antimicrobial finish is to encapsulate silver compound or nano particle with a fiber reactive polymer like poly (styrene-maleric anhydride). • Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols, quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-silver and tin compounds, which can be applied as solutions or • • • dispersions. • They can also be incorporated in a polymeric film deposited on the surface to achieve controlled release. • The rays in the wavelength region of 150 to 400nm are known as ultraviolet radiations. •ultraviolet absorber finish of a fabric is present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks its transmission through a fabric to the skin. •Metal oxides like ZnO as UV-blocker are more stable when compared to organic UV- blocking agents. •Hence, nano ZnO will really enhance the UV-blocking property due to their increase surface area and intense absorption in the UV region.

21. Properties of nano textiles Nanomaterials Electro conductive/antistatic Carbon nanotubes(CNT) Cυ Polypyrrole Polyaniline Increased durability CNT Polybutylacrylate SiO2 ZnO Self-cleaning/ dirt and water repellent CNT SiO2 (as matrix) TiO2 Moisture-absorbing Tio2 UV protection TiO2 ZnO Fire proof CNT Montmorillonite(Nano-Clay) Heat conductive/isolating CNT

22. • Nano-processed garments have protective coating, which is water and beverage repellent. Their protective layer is difficult to detect with the naked eye. Saving time and laundering cost. This technology embraces environment friendly properties. The crease resistant feature keeps clothing neat. Nano- processed products are toxic free. Garments stay bright, fresh looking and are more durable than ordinary materials. Manufacturing cost is low, adding value to the products. • • • • • • •

24. •Parameter: •Padder (1): 4-5 bar ; Padder (2): 3.5- 4 bar Fabric type Single jersey (Viscose) Fabric speed (m/min) 50-70 Over feed % 30 Single jersey(Cotton/Lycra) 60-80 22 Single jersey(Cotton) 60-80 10-11 1x1 Rib 20-30 11 Interlock 20-30 14-15 terry 40-50 5-9 Single jersey- 180GSM (exp.) 70 25% Checking point: Diameter; Fabric speed; Overfeeds; Padder pressure Development: Wet Squeezer Marks Softener Mark

25. Parameter: Fabric type Speed Over feed Padder Padder pressure2 m/min % Pressure 1 Single jersey 60-80 2.5-3 1.5 bar (chemical)- 2bar 3 bar (chemical)- 4bar (normal) (normal) 1×1 rib 30-40 2.5-3 1.25 bar (chemical) -3bar 2.5 bar (chemical)- (normal) 3 bar (normal) 2×2 rib 20-30 2.5-3 1.25 bar (chemical) -3bar 2.5bar (chemical)- (normal) 3 bar (normal) Loop back 20-30 2.5-3 1.5 bar (chemical)- 2bar 3 bar (chemical)- 4bar (normal) (normal) Single jersey 75 2.8 1.5 bar 3 bar (160GSM) EXP Checking point: Needle line; machine speed. Development: Softener spot Improper slitting

26. Parameter: Fabric Color Speed Over feed Temperature Stretch type (°C) (%) White 10 15-20 120 35 s/j Dyed 8-10 15-20 120-130 35 White 12-15 30 120 50 PK Dyed 15 30 120-140 50 White 7-8 10 120-140 20 1×1 rib Dyed 7-8 10 130-140 20 White 7-8 20 120 25 2×2 rib Dyed 7-8 20 120-130 25 White 10 20 130 35 s/j (160 GSM) EXP. Checking point: Speed; Temperature. Development: Overheating and Shade Variation.

27. Parameter: Fabric Single jersey l-Rib PK Fleece/ terry Single jersey Parameter EXP. Required Dia (cm) 88 80 54 80 190 Actual Dia (cm) 90.5 88 67 84 208 Required GSM 160 240 210 240 260 Actual GSM 148 218 185 232 240 Temperature (°C) 170 170 170 170 160 Overfeed 60 45 60 40 40 Machine Speed 20 18 18 16 20 Controlling point: Temperature ; Width setting; Overfeed; Speed. Development: Spirality problem GSM variation & width variation for lycra fabric. Wrong and narrow width Startch stains and white lines on finished cloth

28. Parameter: Over-feed ratio: Edge drive zone – 1.0-1.5 Retard roller – 0.80-0.85 Take-out zone – 0.85-0.90 Conveyor belt – 1.0-1.05 Plaiter – 0.80-0.85 Shoe pressure: S/J – large dia. – avg. 30 psi S/J – smaller dia. – 10-15 psi Rib – 10-20 psi Lycra - <10 psi Types of fabric Buyer Color Over feed Reqd. GSM Finished GSM M/C dia. (cm) 115 Reqd. Dia. Finished dia. Temp 0C RP M Single jersey Name IT Black 60% 180 178 100 98 1100C 15 64″ 74″ 64″ 71″ 75″ 68″ J &J Pimkie Russel Navy 0350 Black 60% 60% 60% 190 210 180 207 205 180 195 210 180 1100C 1000C 1100C 18 18 18 1×1 Rib 2×2 Rib (lycra) Interlock Polyester fabric Fleece Interlock 75″ 64″ 72″ 67″ Kappa Rex & Holm Kappa EXP. Khaki Khaki 60% 60% 260 190 300 185 200 190 1100C 1100C 18 20 74″ 222 77.5″ Blue Blue 60% 60% 260 330 228 288 210 224 1100C 1150C 18 20 Development: Folding Marks GSM Variation

29. Conclusion •We all have tried our level best in accomplishing the project. •Lack of presentation time we skip some topic which we include ours presentation book. •We are greatly thankful to the management and staffs of the companies namely “GMS Composite Knitting IND. Ltd.”, “ Raiyan Knit Composite Ltd ” .Without their constant support it could not have been possible •. In our project we came up mainly with different kinds of knit finishing parameter & development in different machines. •In the project of us we included the each machines in the finishing lines, their working mechanism, their technical data, machine specification, ways of controlling different important parameters, faults and remedies. •We express our heartiest thanks to our project supervisor and honorable teacher, Najmul Ehsan, Lecturer of the Department of Textile Engineering for his logical guidelines, constant inspirations, necessary instructions and proper supervision

30. References: http://www.gmsbd.com http://www.scribd.com http://www.textileschols.com http://www.fiber2fashion.com/industry- article/12/1177/nano-technology-adds-value-to-textile- finishing5.asp http://www.nanowerk.com http://www.en.wikipedia.org http://mytextilenotes.blogspot.com Bibliography: Corbman, Bernard, P. Textiles Fiber to Fabric, sixth edition, MeGraw-Hill International, New York, America.

31. Abstract: We have tried to present all types of finishing processes. Most of the finishing processes are not conduct in Bangladesh. In our country function finishing process is done mostly. Aesthetic finishing are more expensive than functional. We tried hard to give accurate parameter and solve the fault of finishing process. That’s how we can develop finishing process and give more production. Due to limitation our knowledge we did not all finishing processes. We think that our internship and project paper based on finishing will increase our knowledge in many sides.