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Industrial attachment of niagara textile ltd

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Industrial attachment of niagara textile ltd

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT Niagara Textile Ltd 1

  2. ACKNOWLEDGEMENT A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this report. Their insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like to pay special thanks to Prof. Syed Fakhrul Hassan, department of Textile Engineering, “Southeast University”, for continuously guiding us about the development and preparation of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant improvement of the report. I would also like to express my heartfelt thanks to my supervising teacher Mr. Adnan Zaber Mahmud for his encouragement & valuable suggestions for incessant improvement of the report. the Head of the I would like to express our sincere gratitude to Md. Abraruzzaman Diamond, General Manager, “Niagara Textile Ltd”, who has allowed me to work in his organization within a congenial atmosphere during the industrial training period. I recognize Md. Feroj Iftekhar, Deputy Manager (Admin) for managing my internship and for providing sincere help in all administrative and technical matters while working in the organization. My heartfelt thanks go to him for allowing me to perform my industrial attachment in the NIAGARA Textiles Limited. I express my heartiest thanks to Deputy Manager & Assistant Manager, Knitting, Dyeing & Fishing, Garment, Accessories and merchandising for helping to get proper information about every section during industrial training. I would like to especially thank to my all of seniors of my university whom are working in the “NIAGARA Textiles Ltd.” for helping me practically & for showing me the right path. My sincere appreciation goes to the entire “NIAGARA Textiles Ltd.” team for extending their hands of cooperation throughout the training period. 2

  3. Executive Summary Since 1980 to till date the Apparel sector of Bangladesh has conceded through different huddles & obstacles and now has reached a stage where it can compete with all its competitors in price and quality as well as assortment in this scenario. Niagara Textile LTD. is a young & dynamic composite Knit Garment Industry. Though incorporated in the year 2000 as a private limited company it came into existence in late March 2001. The mill being established at Chandra circleUnion-Atabaha, Kaliakair Gazipur, Bangladesh aspires to create a niche within a short period of time in the highly competitive global market of knit garments. Promoted by a team of young and dynamic visionaries, Niagara Textile LTD is a 100% export oriented composite knit garment industry. It possesses all the latest machineries from the European countries with few from the United States of America, Japan, & Taiwan. The entire plant has been installed & erected by foreign and local engineers jointly under the same roof. The total plant is located in total 16 floor with an area of more than 2,65,500 square feet. The factory is well equipped with high performance machinery and experienced technicians & a group of Smart executives are engaged here to ensure the Compliance management for quality and customer happiness. We can produce international standard fabric and garments of any quality and quantity. Niagara Textile LTD always keeps pace with latest technology of Textiles industry. The products of the unit have been classified in such a manner which shall meet the increased demand of the Europeans, USA etc. market fulfilling all the criteria required by the buyer. Introduction 3

  4. If the theoretical knowledge is a glass of water then the practical knowledge would be drinking of the water. It is always very easy to make a man understand about a firebox by showing and lighting practically rather than describing theoretically who has not ever seen a firebox. So, for any technical education the practical experience is the most important as well as the theoretical knowledge. As we are studying in a technical line, it is always important for us to gather the practical knowledge. Through our study life the only biggest chance for us to combine the theoretical knowledge with the practical knowledge is the “Industrial Attachment period” that comes only once in the education life. So we can easily realize the importance of Industrial Attachment. And in addition the knowledge we gathered from the industrial training reflects in the report of industrial attachment note book. So industrial attachment is the process where the trainee can blend his theoretical knowledge with practical knowledge increasing his/ her ability of work, skillness, performance and attitude and so on. It also provides sufficient knowledge about production management, productivity evaluation, work study & efficiency, industrial management, production planning and control, production cost analysis, inventory management, utility, maintenance and so on. Industrial attachment makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and also improve courage and inspiration to take self-responsibility. As Industrial training is an integral part of the study for the students of Textile Technology, so after the final exam of 4thyear 2ndsemester, I have taken this training at “NIAGARA Textiles Limited”, a 100% export oriented apparel manufacturing industry. I tried my best to prepare this note book applying my best efforts. I tried to gather all the necessary information to make it a valuable for me as well as for everyone. I think it will help me a lot in future in my practical life. Place: I have performed our industrial training at “NIAGARA Textiles Limited” which is located at Chandra circle, Union-Atabaha, Kaliakair, Gazipur, Bangladesh. This is a 100% export oriented knit garments factory. It consists of knitting, knit dyeing, finishing & knit garments. Duration: Total duration of training period was from 15thOctober 2012 to 15thDecember 2012 (eight weeks). 4

  5. Table of Contents Acknowledgement………………………………………………………01 Executive Summary…………………………………………………….02 Introduction……………………………………………………………..03 Table of Content ………………………………………………………..04 Chapter No Topic Name Page Number 01 GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE FACTORY 05-19 02 KNITTING 20-29 03 BATCH SECTION 30-32 04 DYEING SECTION 33-46 05 LAB DIP DEPARTMENT 47-51 06 FINISHING SECTION 52-63 07 QUALITY ASSURANCE SECTION 64-67 08 GARMENT’S SECTION 68-100 09 MARCHENDISING 101-108 10 QUALITY CONTROL LABORATORY 109-111 11 PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL 112-113 12 MARKETING ACTIVITIES 114-116 13 MAINTENANCE SECTION 117-120 14 UTILITY SECTION 121-124 15 COMPLIANCE 125-127 16 CONCLUSION 128-130 5

  6. CHAPTER 1 GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE FACTORY 6

  7. 1.0 General Information about the Factory Textiles and Clothing are the leading industries of Bangladesh in Respect of foreign Currency Earning and Employment. We are a Knit Composite Unit Having Knitting, Dyeing, and Finishing & Sewing Units under the same roof. It is housed in its own building surrounding an area of 2,65,500 Sft. feet included Office, CAD & Sample 1 floor, Knitting 2 floor, Dyeing 1 floor, Dyeing Finishing 1 floor, Cutting 1 floor, Printing 1 floor, Sewing 8 floor, Finishing 1 floor & total 16 floor, in our highly protected area surrounded by wall and 4996 workers and stuff. Niagara never allows slave, child or prison labor or even force labor. It always provides all necessary safety measures & ensures the workplace safe, healthy & comfortable. Niagara is going ahead to achieve their vision plan with our dynamic team members. Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) established for hazard free environment. The determination to achieve superior customer service and on time delivery has earn Niagara’s recognition as an invaluable player and the desire to succeed in customer satisfaction with every order makes the Niagara’s team even stronger its these fundamental that keep this unit in the game and wining every time. Since the beginning it has a very good reputation as a financially sound and ethical business house. It has a long term association with selected factories, some of them are certified in terms of social and quality compliance by world’s highest rating bodies, and outstanding sourcing capabilities. Thus Niagara’s has been able to prove itself to be a reliable supplier for knit item in any style and design. Niagara is also ISO & WRAP certified. 7

  8. 8

  9. 1.1 Factory Profile In Brief Corporate and Financial Information Corporate Name : Niagara Textiles Limited Incorporation : C-41635(994)/2000 Type of ownership : Private Limited Company Nature of the Project : 100% export Oriented Company Number of Owners : 04 Motto : Niagara is committed for excellence Workforce : 5000 (Approx.) Membership : BGMEA – BKMEA – Membership no : 594-A/2001 IBWF – Year of the establishment : 2000 Year of the Operation Started : 2001 Our Bankers : Shahjalal Islami Bank Ltd. Islami Bank Bangladesh Ltd. Bank Alfalah Ltd. Dutch Bangla Bank Ltd. : All payments have to be made with confirmed Irrevocable letter of credit at sight. General Terms Our Wings : Knitting Dyeing Printing Garments - Cutting - Sewing - Finishing 9

  10. Contact Address : : 27, Bijoy Nagar Head Office Suit No. C – 1 (1st floor) Dhaka - 1000 Bangladesh Phone # 088-02- 9352328, 9340945, 9347303 Fax # 088-02-9353480 Web Address: www.niagaratex.com E-mail: info@niagaratex.com Factory : Niagara Textiles Ltd Chandra circle Union-Atabaha, Kaliakair, Gazipur, Bangladesh Tel: 88 02 9289127, 06822 – 51233-4 Fax: 06822 – 51231 Web Address: www.niagaratex.com E-mail: info@niagaratex.com Our Board of Directors Chairman Managing Director Director : Mr. Ahsan Habib : Mr. Md. Nurul Hasan : Md. Shahinoor Islam Contact Person Concern department Contact Information Md. Abraruzzaman Diamond Genaral Manager Plant Email:diamond@niagaratex.com E-mail: taj@niagaratex.com G M Taj Mahmud Deputy General Manager Marketing Md. Mabubur Rahman Manager – Merchandising Merchandising E-mail:mahbub@niagaratex.com Md. Faruque Hossain Manager – Compliance Md. Feroj Iftekhar Deputy Manager, Admin Compliance E-mail: faruque@niagaratex.com Administration Email: feroj@niagaratex.com 10

  11. 1.2 Main Product: T-shirt, Polo shirt and different types of Men’s, Lady’s & Kid’s wear in varies kinds of knit fabric. 1.3 Office Staff: A large team of Technical personnel are directly working, assisting the workers & Coordinating pattern, cutting, sewing, quality & finishing-packing. About 575 people are working as a Supervisor, Line chief, Floor in-charge, Section Manager. 1.4 Quality Policy: Niagara Textiles Ltd. Is totally committed to provide quality products that always meet the needs and expectations of customers for reliability, safety, economy and on-time delivery of shipments. To achieve this objective, Niagara Textiles Ltd. provides all the necessary resources to ensure a well equipped and adequately trained, and experienced manpower to take proper care of customer requirements. Niagara Textiles Ltd. Emphasized that quality is the shared responsibility of its entire staff. The company ensures that all personnel are familiar with, and work to the company’s work practices as well in conformity with the legal and other obligatory requirements and are determined to comply with the requirements of Buyer’s expectation e.g. code of conduct, social compliance and continually improve its production and Quality Assurance Department. To manufacture quality products and Customer satisfaction is the company’s goal. 1.4.1 Quality Vision: We have set a vision for our quality management by the named Vision 2020 (Quality). By this time period we are committed to be best one arena of Quality in Textile Manufacturing. 1.4.2 Quality Team: We have developed and maintained a skilled and experienced Quality Team to implement our quality policy and to ensure the quality of our products. 1.4.3 Quality Control Circles: We have developed 18 Quality Control Circles at our factory who are working dedicatedly (self) for the workplace problem solving which problems could be hampered the quality of our products. 1.4.4 Training and Development: We conduct different types of Training, Seminar and Workshop on Quality Improvement for personnel of quality department regularly. 1.4.5 Quality Checking and Maintenance: 11

  12. • • Total goods are checked before shipment for quality assurance. Yarns are lab-tested for pilling resistance, color fastness etc. All kinds of raw materials are preserved in warehouses in a professional manner. Production only starts after their approval & also prior approval on quality. All production floors keep clean and maintain all necessary safety measures according to compliance. • • 1.5 Our Current Strength:  We offer best quality products and services in a cost effective and efficient manner for our valued clients /buyers.  As part of automation, implemented in-house developed ERP database software for MIS (Management Information System).  We have an in-house printing facility.  We have own carrying facility by own covered van for timely shipment.  We have in-house CAD/CAM systems.  We provide special and separate inspection room for our respected buyers.  We have skilled and dedicated manpower (e.g. Operator and Helper) for our different respected buyers.  We have modern production machineries /equipments with updated technologies for our quality based production.  We belief in quality. To maintain the quality of our product we nursing a skilled and dedicated Quality Team who are well informed about quality bench of respected buyers.  We have a Training and Development wing under the Compliance Department for Workers and Employees Skills Development. We are very much careful to bring the maximum output from our staffs and workers through proper training and performance counseling. 1.6 Welfare Facilities: 12

  13.  Induction of workers welfare committee aimed at improving workers morale, Job satisfaction & attendance.  Law, Rules and Regulations are followed by Bangladesh Labor Act’ 2006 and the Code of Conduct of our respected buyers. We provide all necessary Personal Protective Equipments and monitor its proper uses for our workers. We provide PPE to our workers according the department and the nature of their activities We provide tested pure drinking water to our workers and staffs. The Factory has separate Prayer facilities for male and female workers and staff. We provide transportation to our workers who come from a long distance. We have set CC Camera at our factory to maintain the safety and security at the workplace. We have a training wing under compliance department to counsel, train and develop our workers and staffs through different types of training and counseling programs.  We are always very much concerned about the safety issues of our workers. We manage all necessary functions of safety issues very carefully.  Subsidized lunch for staff.  Free snacks for workers.  Full time free of medical service provide by a professional doctor.  Provision day care center for workers children & annual picnic.  Cultural function.  Each floor has sufficient number of washroom.  Each floor has sufficient lighting to facilitate production.  A large dining hall is in our factory including pure drinking water & well sitting Arrangement.  We provide maternity leave and benefit according to the Bangladesh Lbour Act’ 2006. 1.7 Our Philosophy:  We all work towards a common goal of total client satisfaction by providing prompt reliable and effective services to them. 13

  14. We will give our best to our client to make them have a pleasant experience with us.  Our company is committed to offer best service by following a strict protocol of our equipment.  We will use best components and give high quality product, which we would do for ourselves.  We will constantly update our knowledge base and shall continuously engage in using new techniques and procedures and thus deliver the best service possible to our clients in the shortest possible time at most cost effective rates. 1.8 Our Core Values: New Philosophy – Adopting new philosophy of continuous improvement and TQM Integrity – Doing what is right Accountability – Taking personal responsibility Goal Oriented – Working to achieve our goal Advancement – Committing to the advancement of quality in all aspects at all time Respect – Treating people with dignity Attitude – Demonstrating positive and professional attitude in all our dealings 1.9 Compliance: Factory are obeying and maintaining international and local laws, Human rights, Social compliance, Labor law and other rules and instruction by related department of Government. 1.10 Recruitment Policy:  No child labor in our factory. No gender discrimination in our recruitment procedure.  There is no force labor. 1.11 Fire Safety Issues 14

  15. We have a detailed and realistic fire safety policy and plan to protect and manage fire accident at our factory. To protect and to manage fire accident we maintain and monitor following issues: Fire Safety Equipments Details: Fire Extinguisher : 209 ABC : 161 Co2 : 48 Emergency Exit Lights : 85 Fire Alarm Switch : 45 Hammer : 43 Sound Box : 24 First Aid Box : 43 Hose Reel : 43 Smoke Detector : 75 Gas Musk : 25 Visual Alarm : 08 Trained up Fire Fighter Team: We have a fully trained fire Fighter team of 508 members Fire Safety Committee: We have a fire safety committee 43 members Rescue Team: We maintain a well trained up rescue team of 452 members First Aid Team: We have developed and trained up a team of 176 first aid man. 1.12 Present Buyer’s/ Clients & Export Countries: H&M 15

  16. Tchibo Target stores US Polo Lazy Jacks Big Star Charles Vogele Dunnes stores Woolworth New Look Unitessile MASCOT LOBLAWS POINT ZERO SEARS Our Exported Countries  European Union  Japan  Canada  Middle East  United States of America 1.13 Our Achievement: - We have awarded as one of the best compliant factory for fulfilling major compliance issues which was jointly organized by Labor Ministry of Bangladesh Govt. and BKMEA on 1st May, Labor Fair-2008. - We have also awarded by Naari Uddug Kendra (NUK) for fulfilling core standards on social compliance issues. - WRAPB, BSCI & Oekotex 100 certified. - Fully Compliant with environmental ETP & other social welfare issues 16

  17. 1.14 Our Production Capacity Section Capacity Textile division : 20,000 kg fabric / day Knitting : 12,000 kg / day Dyeing & Finishing : 20,000 kg / day Cutting : 65,000 pcs./ day Printing division : 50,000 pcs/ day (One color basic rubber print items) Sewing : 60,000 pcs/ day (based on basic items) Finishing : 60,000 pcs. /day Production lead time : 45-90 Days 17

  18. 1.15 Area Details of our Factory: Niagara Textiles Limited is a Garments factory with area of total 2,65,500 Sft. The detail area description of our factory is following – Textiles Division Area (Smt) Area (Sft) Knitting 1394 Sqm 15,000 Sft Dyeing 3716 Sqm 40,000 Sft Total 5110 sqm 55,000 Sft Area (Smt) Area (Sft) Garments Division: Sewing 5574 sqm 67,000 Sft Cutting 1858 sqm 20,000 Sft Finishing 1858 sqm 20,000 Sft Sample 186 sqm 2,000 Sft Office 465 sqm 5,000 Sft Store 604 sqm 6,500 Sft Total 10454 sqm 1,20,500 Sft Area (Smt) 3716 sqm Area (Sft) 40,000 Sft Bonded Warehouse Free Space 2787 sqm 30,000 Sft Gross Total 22067 sqm 2,45,500 Sft New Addition in Dyeing Finishing 20,000 Sft Grand Total 2,65,500 Sft 18

  19. 1.15.1 Area Details According to the Floor Distribution: Section No. of Floor Office, CAD & Sample 01 Knitting 02 Dyeing 01 Dyeing Finishing 01 Cutting 01 Printing 01 Sewing Floor 08 Finishing 01 Total Floor 16 1.15.2 Different facilities and its quantity at factory infrastructure for our staffs and workers are following Facility Quantity Dining 02 Prayer Place for Male 01 Prayer Place for Female 01 Staff Toilet 17 Male Toilet 98 Female Toilet 58 Total Toilet 156 Medical Center 01 Childcare Center 01 (07 Childs) Canteen 01 Photocopy Center 01 Training & Seminar Hall 01 19

  20. 1.16 ORGANOGRAMME (FACTORY) 20

  21. CHAPTER 2 KNITTING 21

  22. 2.0 MACHINE PROFILE FOR KNITTING SECTION Serial Machine Brand Origin M/C diameter Gauge Feeder QTY 1 Single jersey Pailung Taiwan 20" 24 80 1 SET 2 " Pailung " 21" 24 88 1 SET 3 " Pailung " 22" 24 72 1 SET 4 " Pailung " 23" 24 78 1 SET 5 " Pailung " 24" 24 78 1SET 6 " Pailung " 25" 24 90 1 SET 7 " Pailung " 34" 24 64 5 SET 8 " Pailung " 36" 24 69 1 SET 9 " Orizio Italy 30" 24 75 2 SET 10 Rib (8- Lock) Terrot Germany 30" 18 102 1 SET 11 " Terrot " 36" 18 108 1 SET 12 " Pailung Taiwan 34" 18 114 1 SET 12 " Pailung " 36" 18 120 1 SET 13 " Pailung " 38" 18 96 1 SET 14 " Pailung " 40" 18 102 1 SET 15 " Pailung " 42" 18 108 1 SET Interlock(8-Lock) 16 Terrot Germany 30” 22 120 1 SET 17 " Terrot Germany 34” 22 1 SET 18 " Terrot Germany 36” 22 2 SET 3–Thread Fleece Orizio 19 Italy 30” 20 2 SET Flat Knit (Computerized) 20 Stoll Italy 84” 14 1 SET 21 " Kaohang Taiwan 54” 14 25 SET Total No of machines 53 SET 22

  23. 2.1 Knitting: I started from knitting section as a part of my industrial training. To be a good Textile Engineer it is necessary to know about different types of knitted fabric used in dyeing section and also need to know different fabric faults, raw material of fabric, fabric composition, fabric production process, quality assurance system and last of all maintenance system of the machinery. Source of Yarn for knitting:   India (major) Local Zarina knit composite Squre yarn Shohagpur textile Malek Spinning Hanif Spinning Bextex Ltd Kaya spinning Jumuna spinning Badshah textile Saiham Cotton Mills 2.2 Process flow chart of knitting- Yarn in cone form ↓ Feeding the yarn cone in the creel ↓ Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tensioning ↓ Knitting ↓ Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting ↓ Inspection ↓ Numbering 23

  24. 2.3 Types of Fabric Knitted In the Industry: Types of yarn Count 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 40s 100%Cotton Spandex yarn 20D,30D, 40D 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s PC (65% polyester & 35% cotton) 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s CVC(40% polyester & 60% cotton,20% polyester & 80% cotton) 24s, 26s, 30s Grey Mélange(1%,5%,7.5%,10%,15% viscose) 2.4 Cost of yarn: Yarn Count Combed Yarn Carded Yarn 40/1 3.65 $/Kg 2.65-2.7 $/Kg 36/1 3.00 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg 32/1 2.90 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 30/1 2.70 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg 28/1 2.65 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 26/1 2.60 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg 24/1 2.55 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg 20/1 2.50 $/Kg 2.15- 2.2 $/Kg 24

  25. 2.5 Knitting charge: Sl No. Type of Knitted Fabric M/c gg Y.Count Off Season (April- September) Rate/kg (Tk.) Pick Season (October- March) Rate/kg (Tk.) 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Slub Single Jersey Slub Single Jersey Heavy jersey Feeder Stripe Single Jersey Feeder Stripe Single Jersey S/L,Polo Pk, Double Lacoste F.F. Lycra Jersey H.F. Lycra Jersey Lycra Pique Two Thread Terry Lacra Terry Fleece Fleece 1X1 Rib 1X1 Rib 1X1 Lycra Rib 2X1 Rib H.F.2X1 Lacra Rib F.F.2X1 Lacra Rib 1X1 Rib Stripe 2X1 Rib Stripe Waffle / Flat Back Rib Plain Interlock D.N.Interlock Interlock Stripe Lycra Interlock Pointal Rib (Jacquard) Engg. Stripe S/J (3 Colour) Engg. Stripe S/J (6 Colour) Engg. Stripe Lycra S/J Engg. Stripe Pique Engg. Stripe Terry Engg. Stripe Rib/ Interlock Solid Collar Set Tipping Collar Set Bitt Collar Set Flat Knit Bottom/Kg 24 24 28 20 24 24 20 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 24 20 20 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 18 24 24 24 24 18 24 24 24 24 24 18-30 s/1 32-40s/1 28-40s/1 16-20s/1 18-30s/1 32-40s/1 Any Count Full Feeder Ab.20%F.Miss Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count 40-10s/1 34/10-18-10s/1 18-34s/1 34-40s/1 Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count Any Count 8.00 9.00 9.00 10.00 10.00 11.00 15.00 16.00 20.00 13.00 24.00 20.00 30.00 16.00 28.00 18.00 16.00 13.00 14.00 20.00 18.00 25.00 30.00 20.00 25.00 30.00 17.00 22.00 25.00 30.00 70.00 90.00 100.00 200.00 110.00 160.00 170.00 3.50 4.50 4.50 75.00 9.00 10.00 11.00 12.00 11.00 12.00 16.00 18.00 22.00 14.00 25.00 22.00 30.00 18.00 30.00 20.00 16.00 14.00 15.00 20.00 18.00 25.00 32.00 20.00 25.00 35.00 18.00 25.00 30.00 35.00 80.00 100.00 110.00 250.00 120.00 180.00 180.00 4.00 5.00 5.00 100.00 18/24 14 14 14 14 25

  26. 2.6 different parts of knitting m/c parts: Needle cam Feede sinker cam needle MPF yarn breakage detector VDQ pulley Fabric takedown mechanism 26

  27. 2.7 Description of Production Process: In every mill there maintains a sequence in production processing. It is also followed in this mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list below: 1. Firstly knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as according as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it. 2. Production officer informs technical in charge & knows about machine in which the production will be running. 3. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity etc. 4. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length & grey GSM for required final GSM. 5. Supervisor checks daily production regularity & make operator conscious about finishing tin due time. 6. Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabrics faults then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot. 7. After required production & final inspection in 4- point system, they sent in dyeing section. 27

  28. 2.8 Faults and Their Causes: A. Holes:     Thick thin place in the yarn. High tension in the yarn. Too much speed of the m/c. Defective needle. B. Drop stitches:     Yarn is not properly fed during loop formation. Insufficient yarn tension. Badly set yarn feeder. Defective needle. C. Needle mark:     Breakage of hook of needle. Breakage of latch of needle. Change of alignment of latch. Due to improper schedule maintenance. D. Oil mark/ Grease mark:      Excess oil/grease use in the m/c. Leakage in the oiling system. Bad quality lubricant is used. Mixing of one quality lubricant with another one. Jamming of needle and sinker. E. Design variation:  Variation of stripe in the m/c.  Wrong cam arrangement. F. Count variation:  Different count of yarn package in the same lot.  Different quality of yarn use in the same order.  Variation of count in the same package in different places. G. GSM variation:  Variation in the stitch length.  Wrong position of the VDQ pulley.  Improper tension of the fabric during production.  Wrong selection of yarn count. 28

  29. 2.9 Production Calculation: A. Production / shift in Kg at 100% efficiency B. Production/shift in meter = = C. Fabric width in meter = = D. GSM Calculation 1. = = 2 = = E. Length calculation = 29

  30. 2.10 Maintenance in the Knitting Section: For proper running of the machine it is necessary to maintain the machine. This is done by cleaning the machine after every 7 days. This is basically the servicing of the machine. This is done because  To maintain the quality of the fabric.  To reduce the fabric fault.  Removal of dust from the m/c.  Cleaning of different parts of the m/c.  Overall to increase the production of the m/c. During servicing the following things are checked weather they are in good condition or not. These are cleaned and also replace if necessary. These are       Needle Sinker Sinker Cam Cam Box Cylinder Full Body Remarks: Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical fault of any machine the fix and work under technical in charge. Production officers take account of daily production by running after the supervisor & workers so on. 30

  31. CHAPTER 3 BATCH SECTION 31

  32. 3.0 Objective of Batching:            To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other sources. Turn the grey fabric if require. To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria Order sheet (Received from buyer) Dyeing shade (color or white, light or dark) M/C capacity M/C available Type of fabrics (100% Cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card To keep records for every previous dyeing 3.1 Knitting Fabric Inspection & Grading Based on the Forty points System: The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of Quality Control in the grey finished state, the grading of fabric is a difficult task, taking two primary considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects. The grading has two primary functions: first, to classify the fabrics according to standard qualities based on the end-use and customer demands and second, to supply information as to the qualities actually being produced. The Knitting fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number of points for defects as follows. The First quality level 40 points per 100 Linear Yards The second quality level (40-80) points per Linear Yards The third quality level 80 points or more per 100 Linear Yards 3.2 General Instruction for the final inspection: 32

  33. All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards Mapping will be done on each piece to insure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard. a) All effects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points made to insure proper grading. b) All fabric must meet specifications c) At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total points and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality. d) The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the lower quality. e) Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll of piece will be cut. All defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the price. Defects within the first 2 inches or the last 2 inches of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading. f) Open defects on the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in the grading of fabric. g) Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be the same shade. h) All defects such as runs that extend more than a yard in length will be cut out. i) Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods. 3.3 Proper Batching Criteria:     To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c To minimize the washing time or preparation time & m/c stoppage time. To keep the no. of batch as less as possible for same shade. To use a particular m/c for dyeing same shade. M/C in Batch Section  Grey Inspection machine  Turning machine   The Machine is used to reverse the knitted face to back and back to face. The Machine has capacity blower pipe, fabric turning pipe, roller and folding parts. Specification of grey inspection machine: No of m/c Brand Model Company name : Best leader machinery Manufacturing date Country : 01 : Glory : T1-02 : 2007-6 : china 33

  34. CHAPTER 4 DYEING SECTION 4.0 ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING AND FINISHING: General Manager (GM) 34

  35. AGM ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Senior Manager (Dyeing) Manager (Finishing) Manager (Dyeing) Asst. manager Manager (Dyeing) In Charge Production Officer Supervisor Dyeing Master Operator Floor in charge Helper Supervisor Operator Helper 35

  36. 4.1 Machine profile for Dyeing Section: SL Name of Machine Brand Capacity (kgs) No. of Set 01 Atmospheric winch PMM, Turkey 025 03 100 01 200 01 300 01 400 01 600 01 750 01 800 01 02 High Temperature Winch PMM, Turkey 025 01 300 01 DMS Turkey 025 01 150 01 300 01 450 01 ACMI, Taiwan 050 01 600 01 1200 02 1500 01 Total No. of Machines 21 36

  37. 4.2 LIST OF DYES USED IN NO. 1 NAME OF DYES FUCOZOL YELLOW 3RF TYPES SOURCE Reactive dyes BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE CO LTD, P.T.FUCOLOR CHEMICAL INDUSTRY, INDONESIA. Same Same Same ELBE INTERNATIONAL LTD, CHINA Same Same Same Same Same Same Same BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE CO LTD, P.T.FUCOLOR CHEMICAL INDUSTRY, INDONESIA. Same same same 2 3 4 5 FUCOZOL RED 3BF FUCOZOL BLUE EBL FUCOZOL BLUE EXN ELBEZOL YELLOW 3RS Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 ELBEZOL RED 3BSN ELBEZOL BLACK-B ELBEZOLBLACK-WNN ELBEZOL YELLOW 4GL ELBEZOLORANGE F2R ELBEZOLT/BLUE-G ELBEZOLBLUE RSP FUCOZOL YELLOW UCX Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes 14 15 16 FUCOZOL RED USB FUCOZOL RED USG FUCOZOL NAVY BLUE USB DIANIX YELLOW SEG DIANIX RED EFB DIANIX NAVY CC DIANIX T/BLUE SBG DIANIX BLUE ER DIANIX YELLOW BROWN SER TRICRON YELLOW E- ACT TRICRON RED E -ACT TRICRON BLUE E-ACT Polar White 4B k Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes 17 18 19 20 21 22 Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Dyestar, Germany same same same same same 23 Disperse dyes T & T INDUSTRIES CORP, TAIWAN same same 24 25 26 Disperse dyes Disperse dyes 37

  38. 4.3 Raw material for dyeing: Chemicals used: Basic chemicals:  Hydrogen peroxide  Acetic acid  Soda ash  Caustic soda  Common salt  Glubar salt  Bleaching acid  Hydrose Detergent: I. II. III. PCLF MA Scour AP FEROLZUM Anti-creasing agent: I. MARLAKT CONC II. ALBAFLUIDE C III. MA Lube C IV. Best anti-creasing Leveling agent: I. MARLADF CONC II. Seragal PLP (LPF) III. PRIMALEV R CONC IV. Best leveller 723 Sequestering: I. Hanko QUST II. MARLA DM CONC III. MA Stab XL IV. Best SCQ 710 Peroxide killer: I. P.Killer (PK) Stabilizer: I. II. III. IV. MARLA PS CONC Ultrafresh NMV-2 Argaprep MSS Primastab FF Conc 38

  39. Anti foam: I. II. III. IV. V. Antifoam 39A Albafix SR Jontex Fix 500 Serafast CNC Asufix EPF Enzyme agent: I. Boizep MC new II. UNIZYME 600L Softener agent: I. E-31 (white) II. Softener A-1000 (COLOR) III. Matsoft NISB IV. Softener S-300 V. Chemesoft CWS 4.4 Dyeing Process with Recipe Light Color Process 100% Cotton 1. Machine Wash: Hydrose (2g/L) +Caustic (2g/L) +Foaming Agent (0.5g/L) 30 min at 90oc Machine Washed A. Acid (0.7g/L) 20min at 70oc M/C Neutralized 2. Scouring & Bleaching: Detergent (1 g/L) Sequestering Agent (.5 g/L) Stabilizer (.8 g/L) Caustic (3 g/L) H2O2 (3 g/L) 60min at 98’c 39

  40. 3. Neutralizations (Scouring & Bleaching): H2O2 Killer (.8 g/L) A.Acid (1 g/L) 20min at 80’c 4. Enzyme Wash: A.Acid (1 g/L) Enzyme (1%) 55min at 50’c, PH =4.5 5. Dyeing: Ant creasing Agent (.5 g/L) Leveling Agent (1 g/L) A.Acid (.2 g/L) Dyes (According to shade %) G.Salt (According to shade %) Soda Ash (According to shade %) 60min at 60’c 6. Neutralization: (Dyeing): A.Acid (1 g/L) 10min at 40-50’c 7. Soaping: Soaping Agent (.5 g/L) 20min at 70-80’c 8. Fixing & Softening: Fixing Agent (.5 g/l) 15min at 40’c A.Acid (.5 g/L) Softener (1.5 g/L) 40

  41. 4.5 Main Component’s of a dyeing m/c: 1. Mixing tank: There is a tank in this machine. Every chemical are used to put here. There are some components here are as follows: a. Metallic mixing part: It is used to mix any solution b. Air flow mixing part: It is also to mix any solution. c. Steamer: It is used to delivery steam in mixing tank. d. Steam controller: It can control the amount of steam e. Filter: It is used to filter the solution which is transferred in to the main tank. 2. Main tank: The chemical from the tank is transferred here. The pretreatment and dyeing are completed here. 3. Monitor: It is situated at the right side of the machine. The commands are shown in the monitor & the operators can work from these commands. There are also some options for working properly & to obey these commands. 4. Unloading reel: There is an unloading reel for unloading the dyed fabric. 5. Three detectors: There are 3 detectors on the above of the nozzle are as follows: a. Temperature detector: It is at the left side between these 3 detectors which can detect the temperature of the main tank. b. Fabric turning pressure detector: It is at the middle of these 3 detectors. It can detect the pressure at which the fabric turning. c. Atmospheric pressure detector: It can detect the atmospheric pressure of the main tank. d. Panel board: There is a panel board at the right side of the machine by which programmed can be set up. 4.6 Checklist before operation: Checking the program Machine set-up. Fabric weight. Fabric quality. Collar design (Tipping/ solid). Rib designs (Normal/Lycra). Chemical availability. Power availability. Steam availability. Water availability. Compressed air. Manpower availability. Fabric stitch is done properly. 41

  42. 4.7 Amount of Salt, Alkali & Fixation time On The Basis Of Shade%: Shade % Salt(g/l) Alkali(g/l) Fixing time(min) 0-0.1 30 10 20 0.1-0.5 30 15 30 0.5-01 40 20 40 1-1.5 50 20 50 1.51-2 60 20 60 2-2.5 70 20 60 2.5-5 80 20 60 Above 6 100 25 70 Black shade 100 10+0.5g/l NaOH 70 4.8 Dyeing Parameter: (pH) Bleaching bath pH 10.5 – 11 Neutralization or after bleaching pH 5.5 – 6.5 Bio polishing bath pH 4.5 5.5-6.5 Initial dye bath pH 10.5-11 After alkali addition pH 5.0-6.0 After dyeing pH Fixation bath pH 4.5 – 5.5 Softener bath pH 4.0 – 5.0 42

  43. 4.9.1 Temperature: 980C 550C 600C 800C 600C 600C 800C 1300C 980C 400C (70-90)0C (50-60)0C For cotton Pretreatment For Cotton Biopolishing Cotton Dyeing During Turquise During Isothermal Red special White dyeing For Polyester Dyeing For Cotton soaping Temperature during softening & fixing For cotton hot wash For cotton acid wash 4.10 List of dyes used in: NO. NAME OF DYES 1 FUCOZOL YELLOW 3RF TYPES Reactive dyes SOURCE BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE CO LTD, P.T.FUCOLOR CHEMICAL INDUSTRY, INDONESIA. Same Same Same ELBE INTERNATIONAL LTD, CHINA Same Same Same Same Same Same Same BE FUWELL ENTERPRISE CO LTD, P.T.FUCOLOR CHEMICAL INDUSTRY, INDONESIA. Same Same Same Dyestar, Germany Same Same Same Same Same T & T INDUSTRIES CORP,TAIWAN Same Same 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 FUCOZOL RED 3BF FUCOZOL BLUE EBL FUCOZOL BLUE EXN ELBEZOL YELLOW 3RS ELBEZOL RED 3BSN ELBEZOL BLACK-B ELBEZOLBLACK-WNN ELBEZOL YELLOW 4GL ELBEZOLORANGE F2R ELBEZOLT/BLUE-G ELBEZOLBLUE RSP FUCOZOL YELLOW UCX Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes FUCOZOL RED USB FUCOZOL RED USG FUCOZOL NAVY BLUE USB DIANIX YELLOW SEG DIANIX RED EFB DIANIX NAVY CC DIANIX T/BLUE SBG DIANIX BLUE ER DIANIX YELLOW BROWN SER TRICRON YELLOW E-ACT TRICRON RED E -ACT TRICRON BLUE E-ACT Polar White 4B k Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Reactive dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes Disperse dyes 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 43

  44. 4.11 Chemical used: Basic chemicals: 1. Hydrogen peroxide 2. Acetic acid 3. Soda ash 4. Caustic soda 5. Common salt 6. Glubar salt 7. Bleaching acid 8. Hydrose Detergent: 1. PCLF 2. MA Scour AP 3. FEROLZUM Anticreasing agent: a. MARLAKT CONC b. ALBAFLUIDE C c. MA Lube C d. Best anticreasing e. Leveling agent f. MARLADF CONC g. Seragal PLP (LPF) h. PRIMALEV R CONC i. Best leveller 723 Sequestering: i. Hanko QUST MARLA DM CONC MA Stab XL Best SCQ 710 ii. iii. iv. Peroxide killer: 1. P.Killer (PK) 2. Stabilizer 3. MARLA PS CONC 4. Ultrafresh NMV-2 5. Argaprep MSS 6. Primastab FF Conc 7. Anti foam 8. Antifoam 39A 9. Fixing Agent 10. Albafix SR 11. Jontex Fix 500 12. Serafast CNC 13. Asufix EPF 44

  45. Enzyme agent:   Boizep MC new   UNIZYME 600L Softener agent: 1. E-31 (white) 2. Softener A-1000 (COLOR) 3. Matsoft NISB 4. Softener S-300 5. Chemesoft CWS 4.12 Typical Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing Fill Water ↓ Fabric loading & m/c run ↓ Caustic soda dozing for 5min at 40ºC (PH10.5-11) ↓ H2O2dozing for 5 min at 60ºC ↓ Sequestering agent, anti-creasing agent, detergent dosing at 80ºC ↓ Temp. Rise at 98ºC for 60 min ↓ Bath Drop ↓ Wash ↓ Fill water 4.13 Dyeing Faults:  Uneven Dyeing: Causes:       Uneven pretreatment Improper addition of chemicals Improper addition of color Using dyes of high fixation properties Less control of dyeing machine Less circulation time Remedies:  By ensuring even pretreatment  By proper addition of color and chemicals  Correct circulation time  By controlling the dyeing machine properly 45

  46.  Batch to batch shade variation: Causes:      Using improper dyes and chemicals Incorrect pretreatment procedure Batch to batch weight variation of fabric Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation) Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals Remedies:  By ensuring even pretreatment  By proper addition of color and chemicals  Correct circulation time  By controlling the dyeing machine  Dark colored spots: Causes:     Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade Too high dyestuff concentration in the dyeing bath Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment Remedies:     By ensuring proper dyeing condition By selecting proper dyestuff By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing By ensuring proper after treatment  Patchy dyeing: Causes:      Due to hardness of water Due to faulty color addition Due to faulty injection of alkali Due to improper salt addition Due to improper pH of the solution Remedies:      By using proper sequestering By correcting the color addition By correcting the salt addition By proper injection of alkali By maintaining the pH level of the solution 46

  47.  Crease mark: Causes:    Poor opening of the fabric rope Due to high speed of m/c running Unequal pump pressure and reel speed Remedies:    By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed By controlling the speed of the machine Correct opening of the fabric rope  Roll to roll variation: Causes:     Poor migration property of dyes Hardness of water Improper dyes solubility Faulty machine speed Remedies:    Use standard dyes and chemicals Proper machine speed Using soft water 47

  48. CHAPTER 5 LAB DIP DEPARTMENT 48

  49. 5.0 Definition: Lab Dip development means the sample which is dyed according to the buyer’s requirements. Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production dyes planning done. The main objectives in lab dip are as follows:     To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectrophotometer. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved Lab Dip. (Grade: A B C) 5.1 Machine Profile For Dyeing Laboratory SL Name of Machine Brand No. of Set Spectrophotometer attached with pentium-4 computer 01 Datacolor 01 02 Spectra flash Model- SF 600x 01 Ahiba Nuance, Swiss 01 03 Lab Sample Dyeing Fongs, Hong Kong 03 04 Dimensional Stability Test. Wascator, Sewden 01 05 Color Assesment Cabinet Veri vide, England 04 06 Washing Machine Ariston 02 07 Rubbing Tester Crock Meter Roaches, England 01 Total No. of Machines 14 49

  50. Washing machine & Spectrophotometer Lighting Box 5.2 PANTONE BOOK (TCX, TPX): This book is used for shade matching. Sometime buyer gave the pantone no. in their order. Pantone no. indicates the shade of the garments. It’s a universal shade matching book. Full name : Pantone Textile Color Selector Color numbering system : 6 digit + suffix First two digits : 11 to 19 (range of lightness) Middle two digits : 01 to 64 (range of hue) Last two digits : 01 to 65 (range of chroma) 5.3 Necessary calculation: 5.4 Process flow chart of lab dip dyeing: 50

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