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Industrial attachment of acs textils ltd Bangladesh

Industrial attachment of acs textils ltd Bangladesh

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Industrial attachment of acs textils ltd Bangladesh

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  1. INDUSTRIAL TRAINING Course Code: Tex -4036 INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT OF ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD.

  2. P a g e | 1 ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD. Tetlabo, Rupgonj, Narayangonj

  3. P a g e | 2 Abstract Abstract The aim of industrial practice is to make us familiar with any kind of industry, the whole process going on the industry, its environment and also with the management system of the industry. As a student ofTextile Engineering Department, the target of should be to know the production process, management system, marketing, production planning, quality assurance, compliance, mechanical-electrical department etc. It is because of the fact that to run any industry not only production department is obvious but also the capability of managing the whole system is an obvious matter. It is also a responsibility of an engineer is to develop the ongoing process into a better system to cope with the present competition. Thus a diversified challenge emerges in front of the manufacturer and other organizations. With a view to overcome this consequence a new generation of engineering graduates with leadership skills and management capabilities altogether are in demand. We the students of Textile Engineering Department were sent to different industries and assigned to different tasks. We were assigned toACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. This report is a presentation of our experience in the Woven dyeing production.

  4. P a g e | 3 Acknowledgement Acknowledgement All praises to Almighty Allah alone, the Most merciful and the most compassionate and His Holy prophet “ Muhammad “ (Peace be Upon Him) the most perfect and exalted one among and of ever born on the earth, who is forever touch of guidance and knowledge for the humanity. I would like to thank Prof. SAYED FAKRUL HASAN MURAD, Dean & Head of the department of Textile Engineering, SOUTHEAST University whose directions have taken me to my destination. I am also grateful to Dr. A.B.M. FAYSAL, professor, department of Textile Engineering, Primeasia University for his scholastic guidance, constructive criticism, painstaking help constant inspiration and advice from the very beginning till the completion of this work. I also want to express my gratitude and appreciation to Md. Anwar Hossain, Assistant professor, Wet Processing Technology, SOUTHEAST University, for his encouragement, valuable suggestion, and guidance and decision which able to help to do this Industrial attachment successfully. This internship report is not the result of individual effort. It is a result of wonderful team-work. We are really thankful on Md. Abdullahel , Lab Manager and Mohammad Saiful Azam, Assistant manager(production),Mr. Md. Johrul Kabir, General Manager of Admin & HR, of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. who gave us the approval for making of that regard. We are also really thankful on Mr. Tariq Raja, manager of pre production processes Mr. Niyaz, manager of weaving, Mr. Ramjan, general Manager of weaving at ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. to help us for getting information about our internship. We are thankful to all those who supported us and provide us great help for completion of this task. We have tried our level best to prepare this event with high level of accuracy but no one claim to perfect other than Almighty Allah.

  5. P a g e | 4 Table of contents Table of contents Chapter Topics Summery Page No. 06 Introduction to ACS Textiles(Bangladesh) Ltd Production planning & Company profile Buyers Organism of manpower Layout of Woven Dyeing Sequence of operation 13 18 23 24 26 sequence operation Introduction & Basic procedure of planning & control Singeing &Desizing 27 Preparation Unit 30 Scouring & Bleaching 37 Mercerizing 44 Dyeing section Reactive Dyeing 49 Disperse Dyeing 52 Pigment Dyeing 62 Finishing Section 71 Quality control 90 Maintenance 102 Store & inventory control 115 Utilities 120 Conclusion 125

  6. P a g e | 5 Chapter- One INTRODUCTION TO ACS TEXTILES (BANGLADESH) LTD.

  7. P a g e | 6 Executive summary Executive summary This report is the result of two months internship. During the internship it was required to study the organization, department of the organization and critically relate the theoretical aspects of the Textile to the practical situation. ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. operates throughout the world with over 6000employees as part of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. team. ACS collection has a wide selection of quality 100% cotton, CVC, Cotton-polyester, competent professional staff, a team of talented merchandisers, excellent supplies & support services, and state-of-the-art technology is the driving force behind ACS’s phenomenal growth in the past years. ACS has expanded its operations to include the Internet, and has taken advantage of the variety of international trade facilitated by the Web. Now ACS is state-of-the-art client/server technology for its market information processes to coordinate its network of global buyers and agents around the world. Environmental Organizational and the individual challenges which are to face by the department of “ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.”. The motive of joining the ACS is to have an exposure of textile sector and potential to avail a sound and promising career. There are no formal union in ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.

  8. P a g e | 7 Methodology of internship Methodology of internship Every research program should follow some basic form of procedures. However mainly this report is written on the basis of experience gathered during the period of Internship. We carefully observed the various activities of different department, especially fabric section of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. A qualitative research is used to conduct this study. In order to make the report more meaningful and presentable two sources of data and information have been used widely. Both primary and secondary data have been used to prepare the report

  9. P a g e | 8 Initial Conversation Initial Conversation Industrial attachment is the first step to professional life of student, especially of technical Side. It’s an indispensable part of study a practically running processing technology of an industrial unit for a student .In our university , processing machines are not in continuous running condition, so it would only provide demonstration of mechanical features & processing technology of the material in accomplishment of the theory there of but not of the situational variables to achieve practical knowledge. So two months industrial attachment program in a dyeing mill was arranged for us. Textile education can’t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial attachment program minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make me accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete two month long industrial training in ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd., which is a 100% export, oriented Weaving Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric and Yarn dyeing-finishing units in addition to facilitate weaving & woven fabric manufacturing. The rationale behind the existing structure and future expansion of ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. is to capture value-added at each stage of the textile manufacturing process. Despite Bangladesh’s lack of indigenous cotton production capacity.ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. has leveraged Bangladesh’s labor cost advantage and export competitiveness to the Maximum. Objectives of Internship Objectives of Internship

  10. P a g e | 9 Objective: The objective of the report is to learn about the overall activities of different departments in ACS Textiles Ltd. A primary textile industry Academic knowledge is not perfect without practical knowledge. Specific Objectives: This intern paper has been prepared for fulfilling the following specific objectives: To enlarge the dimension of knowledge regarding fabric manufacturing as well as others. To define and evaluate the performance of fabric manufacturing Department as well as others. To observe the effectiveness of fabric manufacturing as well as others. To get the additional knowledge in different sections of the organization. To interchange opinions of the officials regarding their organization. To know the economic condition of Bangladesh through ACS Textiles Ltd. of Bangladesh. To identify the difference between theory (what we have learned from the text) and practice (what is really happened). To compare the improvement of the present condition of the ACS Textiles Ltd. with the previous years. To mention the problems that the ACS Textiles Ltd. face in the process of production and delivery of garments & give some suggestions. To identify the strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats of the ACS Textiles Ltd.

  11. P a g e | 10 ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. symbolizes trust and quality in Home Textile Products manufacturing across Bangladesh. A 100% British investment, ACS takes pride in its state-of-the-art composite manufacturing facility with weaving, dying, printing, finishing and packing services which are one of the largest of its kind in Bangladesh. ACS Textiles is a quality conscious company. Based on sound policies to ensure the finest quality of the products, the manufacturing processes are compliant with ISO 9001: 2008 standards producing top quality bedding and linen sheets ranging from 200 - 400 thread count percale sheets to satin sheets and duvets, Egyptian and organic cotton and yarn dyed fabric. A recent addition to our products is a wide range of towels for all kinds of use. ACS Textiles BD Ltd. has come a long way since its establishment in 2004 and, over the years has built a global reputation of excellence matched by only a few others in the textile industry. The manufacturing facility employs over 6000 people and averages about 30,000 pieces of superior quality textile products per day. These high quality ACS Textile products have found their market in European countries such as Italy and France and in Scandinavian Europe namely Sweden, Holland, Denmark and Norway. 2008 saw ACS expanding its export clientele to include Australia and North America as well. Our excellence is recognized not only by our customers but also by official authorities for quality standards – Okeo-Tex standard 100 certification further endorses our unswerving commitment to quality. Name Of The Industry:ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd.

  12. P a g e | 11 Type of the industry: A foreign invested 100% export oriented home textiles manufacturer. Company’s Logo: Company’s Motto: “Make continuous effort to offer our customers quality products and effective services and realize our principle of customer first, service is ultimate.” Mission Statement: Our Mission is to be the market leader of home linen (bed linen and towels), by the year 2015. To provide a healthy, safe and competitive work environment for our employees and reward them justly for their efforts ACS as we see: Established in 2004 gc and located 16 kilometers from the centre of Dhaka city and on the main road to Dhaka – Shylethighway.ACS represents the aspiration of about 153,546,896 inhabitants in Bangladesh country. The factory is a magnificent landmark in the middle of beautiful valley surrounded by lake, and is only 20kms. That is one of half hour drive away from Dhaka airport. Corporate structure: ACS Textile Bangladesh Ltd. Is an industry with an investment of 50 million US dollars and registered with British high commission as 100% British Investment Company. All members of the board of directors are British citizen having the separate business in the name of pin mill textile, a company of last 50 years with turnover of 10 million GBP. Corporate culture:

  13. P a g e | 12 Continuous improvement is an integral part of our corporate culture. Nurturing and effectively integrating “ People, Management and Development” is the key focus where corporate culture gives empowerment of employees in taking initiative, involving in decision making, interacting for collective bargaining, self- enhancement opportunities and bringing in changes essential to meet business strategy. The management is strongly committed to social compliance issues. Our policies strictly prohibit child labor, forced labor, and monetary penalties as a form of disciplinary action. We believe in social accountability and thus ACS is involved in development projects in Bangladesh. Quality Control: ACS maintains stringent quality control practices and conducts computerized testing processes to determine strength of yarn, density of cloth and fastness of colors. Quality control processes are set up at every stage of production with the strictest of standards to adhere to; ensuring all production is of the highest quality. The quality control personnel conduct pre-inspection of goods at different stages to maintain international standards and to screen out defective products at the onset. The policy that ACS Textiles (BD) Ltd. follows is: oProvide consistent quality products and services with on time delivery to achieve and enhance customer satisfaction. oProvide a safe & conducive working environment to employees and encourage their involvement in the never ending effort to improve quality of our products and services. oMinimize environmental impact through prevention of pollution, solid & liquid waste management and conversation of natural resources. oPromoting awareness and importance of Quality & Environment among our employees, the community and our suppliers. oEnsure continual improvement and compliance with customer & relevant environmental legislation regulations.

  14. Company Profile: Name : ACS Textiles Bangladesh Ltd. : Tetlabo, Bangladesh Tel: +880-2-7452039, +880-2-7452040, +880-2-7450724, +880-2-7450725 Fax: 880-2-7450786 : info@acstextiles.com : www.acstextiles.com : Limited company : 2004, 13th April : Southeast Bank Dilkusha commercial area Dhaka-1000 Dutch Bangla Bank Mothijhil commercial area Dhaka-1000 Bank Al-Falah Ltd. Rajuk Avenue Mothijhil commercial area Dhaka-1000 :American Life Insurance Company ALICO Building, 18-20 motijhil C/A P.O. Box 9, Dhaka-1000,Bangladesh Tel: +880-2-9561791, +880-2-7160025 Fax: +880-2-9558682 E-mail: american.life@alicobd.com :5,50,000 square fetes :1,05,000 meters per day Address Rupgonj, Narayanganj, E-mail Web Legal status of company Year of establishment Sponsor Banks Insurance Total land area Production capacity

  15. P a g e | 14 Total employees Total consumer Annual capacity Standard certification program :Approx. 6000 :Above 60 :31,00000 meters :BSCI global standard (for client: V&D &lidi) BRC global standard- consumer product Certificate no. GB08/75996 Control union certification (GOTS & OE) Certificate no.C810124GOTS-01.2008 Certificate no.C8 10124OE-01.2008 OEKO-TEX standard 100 Test no.07KA.56878 ISO certification (in the pipeline) SA-8000 certification (in the pipeline)

  16. P a g e | 15 Membership :Bangladesh Association(BTMA) Membership no. 0002-0179-0401 Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) Enrolment no. TM12 Narayanganj Chamber Of Commerce & Industry Registration no. 465 of book 5 Foreign Investors chamber of commerce & Industry Registration no. 122 of book 2 : Factory license Fire license Boiler license Trade license Export license Import license Environmental clearance license Income tax certificates Group insurance certificate Acid using license : Textile Mills Valid Licenses and Certificates Factory achievement National Export Trophy 2008-2009

  17. P a g e | 16 Product Mix: a. In Tappet loom. i.Plain. ii.Twill. iii.Sateen. iv.Some combination weaves which are possible in tappet. v.Oxford. (Warp rib and weft rib). vi.Queen’s Oxford. vii.Matt. viii.Double cloth Fabrics b.In Dobby loom: i.Various types of weave. ii.Diamond. iii.Diaper. iv.Herring bone. v.Honey comb. vi.The designs which are possible in 16 healed frames. Different Department: A.Administration. B.Human Resource and Development Dept.

  18. P a g e | 17 C.Weaving Preparatory& Design D.Lab E.Weaving. F.R & D(Research & Development) G.Woven finishing. H.Dyeing I.Printing J.Terry Towel K.Stitching L.Packaging M.Store. N.Planning Dept. O.Utility Dept. P.Procurement & Purchasing Q.Marketing R. QA Dept. S.Inspection Dept. T.Mechanical Dept. U.Electrical Dept.

  19. P a g e | 18 Buyers Buyers Name M & S Logo SAINSBURY’S TESCO DUNELM HOUSE OF FRASER JOHN LEWIS LA REDOUTE 3 SUISSES

  20. P a g e | 19 CASINO DESCAMPS OLIVIER M FRANCOISE BLANCHEPORTE PRINCESS HOIE

  21. P a g e | 20 KID EE CORTE INGEES V & D VESPO HEMA WALLACE COTTON HEMTEX LEXINGTON

  22. P a g e | 21 NITORI SODAHL LIDL ADAIRS BED BATHN’ TABLE WALMART GIANT TIGER

  23. P a g e | 22 LOBLAWS HBC

  24. P a g e | 23 Organogram of manpower Shift system Per shift is 8hrs 1st shift : 6:00 A.M – 2:00 P.M (shift A) 2nd shift : 2:00 P.M – 10:00P.M(shift B) 3rd shift : 10.00 P.M – 6:00 A.M (shift C) General shift : 9:00 A.M – 6:00 P.M

  25. P a g e | 24 LAY OUT OF WOVEN DYEING Singeing M/C Quality Control Stenter M/C Stenter M/C Pad dry Chemical pad Steam Dye Store Kitchen Color Mercerizing M/C Chemical Finish Bleaching M/C Pad dry Thermosol Preparation Chemical Shrinkage M/C Recovery Caustic Dry Chem. Chem. Store Wet CalenderM/C Jigger M/C Store Peaching Training Final Inspection Yarn Dyeing

  26. P a g e | 25 Chapter- Two PRODUCTION PLANNING & SEQUENCE OPERATION

  27. P a g e | 26 Sequence of operation: Weaving Grey fabric inspection Singeing Scouring/Bleaching Mercerizing Dyeing Stentering Sanforizing Emerizing Calendaring Final Inspection Packing Delivery to garments industry

  28. P a g e | 27 Introduction and Basic Procedure of Planning and Control: the required time. So planning has its own importance which is intolerable, “Planning” gives a scheduled task and ‘Control’ completes it successfully. But production planning and control is not an easy task. So BEXIMCO has a self-sufficient and high-performance department called “Production Planning & Control”. Its Basic working procedure is as follows- A planned work brings success. Without planning nothing is completed within 1. Taking orders from marketing division. 2. Analyzing the orders. 3. Planning for weaving the fabric. 4. Planning for dyeing the fabric. 5. Planning for finishing the fabric. 6. Cost analysis & load time. It is only a basic procedure. It may change according to the type of order. Sometimes, order is places only for finishing the material or only for dyeing the white goods. Then some steps are omitted from the planning procedure. 1. Taking orders from marketing division: BEXIMCOmarking division supplies Fabric Orders to the BTL Planning and control division by a special format. 2. Analyzing the orders: This section analyzes the orders according to buyers, Order Quantity, type of orders (i.e. type of fabric, color to be dyed etc.), delivery date etc. Then it selects which M/C. to use, no of M/C. to use, time required for production etc. This section plans for required quantity of fabric need to be dyed. Dyeing balance, RFD (Ready for delivery), RFD balance, delivered fabric and delivery balance. 3. Planning for weaving: This section plans for weaving production. It selects machine for weaving the fabric for specific type of fabric, type of yarn used, required GSM, width etc. It also gives

  29. P a g e | 28 delivery data for woven fabric. It also places orders for buying of yarn from spinning mills by a specific schedule. 4. Planning for dyeing the fabric: Production planning for dyeing is called ‘Batch Plan’. According to the batch no. and color, width, style and construction the batch plan is made. For easy understand this section gives some ‘T’. Cards. ‘T’ card are serialized according to the priority of delivery. The batches and ‘T’ cards also serialized as to dye light shade at first and lastly the dark shades, so that faulty shades can be converted to dark color later. 5. Planning for finishing the fabric: Finishingschedule is same us the dyeing. After dyeing the material goes to the finishing section with the process rout card. Finished data is written to the rout card and is informed to the planning section. However, this section always enforces to all the departments to finishing all the works within the delivery time given by the buyers. This section delivers materials to the garment factory in the lead time. Thus it plays a very important role in the success of the company.

  30. P a g e | 29 Chapter- Three PREPARATION UNIT

  31. P a g e | 30 Singeing and Desizing Singeing: Singeing is a process for removing hairy/projectile fiber from the fabric surface. Desizing: Desizing is a process for removing sizing material from the fabric by chemical treatment. Cold Bleach: It is a process to remove dirt, dust, husk, leaf from the fabric and transfer it into permanent white by chemical treatment in cold condition. Process Requirement: Equipment Used: OSTHOFF singing and Desizing machine. Key Accessories: Fork lifter, wooden plate, sewing machine, A-frame or batchers etc. are the key accessories for singing for white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed fabric (PC-015) In addition to the aforesaid tools mixing tank, reserve tank, pH meter polythine paper, rotation station, hand gloves, eye protecting glass, clip/finger clip etc are some additional tools/ accessories used for the following fabric process- For all cotton color fabric. For all cotton color peace finish fabric. Singing and Desizing for yarn dyed fabric and PC / CVC fabric. Singing and cold bleach for PC / CVC fabric. Only Desizing for PC / CVC / yarn dyed peach finish fabric. Singing and cold bleach for Bull-Twill (Heavy fabric). Material and Chemical used:

  32. P a g e | 31 Steam, compressed air, water, natural gas, Desizing agent, wetting agent, sequestering agent and dearating. Singeing, Desizing and Cold Bleach recipe: Fabric Name Chemical/material used Desizing agent Dearating agent Wetting agent Sequestering Agent Composition Follow the bulk recipe by fabric type 1.All cotton color fabric 2.All cotton color peach finish fabric (for only desizing) 3.Yarn dyed and PC / CVC fabric Natural gas for burner, steam, compressed air, water N/A Natural gas for burner, compressed air, water N/A 4.White cotton fabric and special yarn dyed fabric (for only singing). 5.PC / CVC fabric (for singeing and cold bleach) H2O2,NaOH,Stabilizer Wetting agent / Detergent Sequestering Agent Dearating agent Follow the bulk recipe by fabric type Natural gas for burner, compressed air, water Desizing agent Dearating agent Wetting agent Sequestering Agent steam, compressed air, water H2O2,NaOH,Stabilizer Wetting agent Sequestering Agent Dearating agent Desizing agent N/A 6.PC / CVC yarn dyed peach finish fabric (only for desizing) Follow the bulk recipe by fabric type N/A 7.Bull-Twill i.e. heavy fabric (for singeing, desizing, cold bleach) Follow the bulk recipe by fabric type

  33. P a g e | 32 Fig: Singeing &desizingmachine. Production Procedure: Machine set-up for production: Machine set-up for singing and desizing for all cotton color fabric: Machine set-up parameter Temperature pH or Litmus paper 6.5-7 Burner position Chemical level Reserve chemical Flame intensity Pressure Fabric position Burner A-frame position Actual parameter range (70-80)°C Machine set value M/C-1 (70-85)°C 6.5 3rd (750-800) L 1000L 11-13 m.bar (1.2-2) bar Face 2 Set nicely Machine set value M/C-2 (70-85)°C 6.5 - (1000-1200)L 1000L 11-15 m.bar (2-2.5) bar Face 2 Set nicely 1, 2, 3 (700-1400) L (1000-2000)liter (1-20) m.bar (1.3-1.5) bar Face or Bake 1 or 2 Set nicely

  34. P a g e | 33 Machine set-up for singing for white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed (PC-015) fabric: Machine set-up parameter Burner position Flame intensity Pressure Fabric position Burner A-frame position Actual parameter range 1, 2, 3 (1-20) m.bar (1.5-2) bar Face or Bake 1 or 2 Set nicely Machine set value M/C-1 3rd (14-18) m.bar (1.8-2) bar Face 2 Set nicely Machine set value M/C-2 - - (1.5-2) bar Face 2 Set nicely Machine set-up for desizing for all cotton color peach fabric: Machine set-up parameter Temperature pH or Litmus paper (6-7.5) Chemical level Reserve chemical Pressure Fabric position A-frame position Actual parameter range (65-80)°C Machine set value M/C-1 (65-80)°C 6.5 (750-800) L 1000 L (1.8-2) bar Face Set nicely Machine set value M/C-2 (65-80)°C 6.5 (1000-1200)L 1000 L (1.5-2) bar Face Set nicely (700-1400) L (1000-2000) L (1.5-2) bar Face or Bake Set nicely Machine set-up for singing desizing for yarn dyed fabric and PC / CVC fabric: Machine set-up parameter Temperature pH or Litmus paper 6-7.5 Burner position Actual parameter range (65-85)°C Machine set value M/C-1 (65-85)°C 6.5 2nd=PC 3rd=yarn dyed (750-800) L 1000 L (14-16) m.bar (1.8-2) bar Face 2 Set nicely Machine set value M/C-2 (65-85)°C 6.5 - 1, 2, 3 Chemical level Reserve chemical Flame intensity Pressure Fabric position Burner A-frame position Machine set-up for singing and cold bleach for PC / CVC fabric: (700-1400) L (1000-2000)liter (1-20) m.bar (1.5-2) bar Face or Bake 1 or 2 Set nicely (1000-1200)L 1000 L (11-15) m.bar 2 bar Face 2 Set nicely Machine set-up parameter Burner position Actual parameter range 1, 2, 3 Machine set value M/C-1 2nd position Machine set value M/C-2 -

  35. P a g e | 34 Chemical level Reserve chemical Flame intensity Pressure Fabric position Burner A-frame position (700-1400) L (1000-2000)liter (13-16) m.bar (1.3-1.5) bar Face or Bake 1 or 2 Set nicely (750-800) L 1000 L (13-16) m.bar (1.8-2) bar Face 2 Set nicely (1000-1200)L 1000 L (11-15) m.bar 2 bar Face 2 Set nicely Machine set-up for desizing for PC / CVC yarn dyed peace finish fabric: Machine set-up parameter Temperature pH or Litmus paper 6-7.5 Chemical level Reserve chemical Fabric position A-frame position Speed, Flame intensity, Burner position, Padder pressure Actual parameter range (65-85)°C Machine set value M/C-1 (65-85)°C 6.5 (750-800) L 1000 L Face Set nicely Machine set value M/C-2 (65-85)°C 6.5 (1000-1200)L 1000 L Face Set nicely (700-1400) L (1000-2000)liter Face or Bake Set nicely Reference are given in parameter set table Machine set-up for singing and cold bleach for Bull-twill: Machine set-up parameter Chemical level Reserve chemical Fabric position A-frame position Speed, Flame intensity, Burner position, Padder pressure Actual parameter range (700-1400) L (1000-2000)liter Face or Bake Set nicely Reference are given in parameter set table Machine set value M/C-1 (750-800) L 1000 L Face Set nicely Parameter set table: Some important parameter for various fabric- Quality Paramete r range P.C & C.V. C 100 Bull- Twil l T.C Pocketing/Voi l Ligh t Mediu m Heav y Yarn Dye d Speed 60-120 70 70 70- 70 70 90-

  36. P a g e | 35 (m/min ) Flame Intensit y (m.bar) Burner Position Padder Pressur e (bar) 80 110 1-20 13 16 16 16 15 15 13 1,2,3 position 1.3-2.5 2 3 3 3 3 3 2 2- 1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 2-1.9 Check list before production: Operator must check the following before starting production of the fabric named bellow: oAll cotton colored fabric = Singing &Desizing. oAll cotton colored peach finish fabric = Desizing. oYarn dyed & P.C/C.V.C fabric = Singing &Desizing. oP.C/C.V.C fabric = Singing & Cold bleach. oP.C/C.V.C / yarn dyed peach finish fabric = Desizing. oBull-Twill / Heavy fabric = Singing & Cold bleach. oWhite cotton fabric & Special yarn dyed (PC-015) fabric = Singing (Without Chemical) Item to be checked: oMachine parameters are set. oManpower is available. oChemicals are available. oAll accessories are available. oFabric Stitch with tape fabric is done. oSewing thread (cone) is available.

  37. P a g e | 36 Operation Procedure: The sewing man stitches the fabric with tape fabric. He must be careful in stitching the face side of fabric will the face side of the same fabric. Operator turns the machine (OSTHOFF SENGE) on and set the machine at desired speed given bellow : Type of fabric Cotton colored Cotton white Yarn dyed P.C/C.V.C Bull-Twill Machine speed (m/min) 60-80 70-80 100-120 100 60 Processing continues until a frame or a batcher is complete. After completion of the batcher the operator stop the machine and warps the batcher with polythene paper and set it into the rotation station for at least 6-8 hours. In case of singing and cold bleach of P.C / C.V.C fabric the polythene paper warped batcher is set into the rotation station for 24 hours. But in case of only singing of white cotton fabric and special yarn dyed (PC- 015) fabric the batcher need not to set into the rotation station. In the rotation station the batcher rotates and the chemicals distributed equally in the fabric. The quality of the product depends on various parameters like the machine speed, temperature, pressure, flame intensity, chemical level burner position and pH value etc. The operator must check the above parameter carefully during processing to avoid any defect. Product quality check: During production the operator will check frequently the pH level of the solution by pH meter or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defect like projectile hairy fiber by paralelly looking at fabric, fabric position, crease on the fabric, fabric sewing and any other abnormalitic that can be detect by naked eye. Q.C sample test: Quality control department follow the pickup percent test method to verify the quality during the process. This is done once in a month or after every maintenance. But in case of only singing of white cotton fabric and yarn dyed fabric (PC-015) fabric it is not need.

  38. P a g e | 37 Scouring and Bleaching Scouring: Removing wax and oil by chemical treatment. Bleaching: Removing of natural nitrogenous coloring compound, dirt, dust, broken parts of seed or leaf and whitening of fabric by chemical treatment. Washing: Removing size chemical and spot of fabric and increasing absorbency. Equipment Used: GOOLER scouring and bleaching machine. Key Accessories: Mixing tank, reverse tank, conical flax, pipette, burette, acid, Potassium permanganate , Phenolphthalein, eye protecting and hand gloves, sewing machine, boume meter, handle for carrying batch/A frame fork lift. Material / chemical used: Water , steam, compressed air, NaOH, H2O2, stabilizer, wetting agent, detergent, sequestering agent, and deatering agent. A chemical solution is prepared for fabric processing as per recipe provided below: Amount of chemicals: Fabric (GSM) weight Chemical composition Chemical composition Chemicals (Gm/m2) (ml/kg of fabric) (ml/kg of fabric) Without conveyer With conveyer

  39. P a g e | 38 Light fabric H2O2 (50%) 40-50 35-45 (100-110) NaOH (40˚BE) 30-40 25-35 Stabilizer 6-8 5-6 Detergent/wetting 4-5 4-8 Sequestering agent 1-2 1-2 Deatering agent 1-3 1-2 Medium fabric H2O2 (50%) 40-45 40-45 (130-260) NaOH (40˚BE) 40-45 30-35 Stabilizer 6-7 8-10 Detergent/wetting 4-8 7-8 Sequestering agent 1-2 1-2 Deatering agent 1 1.5 Heavy fabric H2O2 (50%) 40-45 40-45 NaOH (40˚BE) 40-45 30-35 Stabilizer 6-7 8-10 Detergent/wetting 4-6 8-10 Sequestering agent 1-2 1-2 Deatering agent 1 1.5 Scouring recipe for PC/ CVC: Chemical Chemical composition(ml/kg of fabric) Light fabric 60-80 NaoH (40BE) 2-3 Detergent / wetting agent

  40. P a g e | 39 Heavy fabric 80-90 NaoH (40BE) 3 Detergent / wetting agent After cold bleach recipe for all white fabric: Chemical Chemical composition (ml/kg of fabric) with conveyor Light fabric 15-25 H2O2 (50%) 15-20 NaOH (40˚BE) 5-6 Stabilizer 3-4 Detergent/wetting 1-2 Sequestering agent 0.5 Deatering agent Medium / heavy fabric 20-25 H2O2 (50%) 15-20 NaOH (40˚BE) 6-7 Stabilizer 3-4 Detergent/wetting 1-2 Sequestering agent 1.5 Deatering agent Washing recipe: Washing is done with hot water only detergent (2/3) gm/kg of fabric. May be used for medium and heavy color fabric. Machine speed is mentioned in the speed table. Titration: Titration is the process for identifying the amount of chemical present in the solution. The test chemical reagent 0.1 N HCL , 25% H2SO4, 0.1 N K2MNO4, are prepared by the QC group.

  41. P a g e | 40 Titration procedure for NaOH: Take 1 ml sample of the chemical solution from the mother tank into a chemical flask. Then add 25 ml of water with the solution and stir for few seconds. Next add 1-2 drops of reagent onto the sample solution, this will turn the solution into light pink color. Then the chemical flask with the sample is set under a burette containing 0.1N HCL acid next HCL added to the sample solution and drop at a time until the light pink color disappears. The no of 0.1 N HCL drops required is the reading that is used to calculate the amount of NaOH present in the mixing tank. Titration procedure for H2O2 Take 1 ml sample of the chemical solution from the mother tank to a chemical flask. Then add 10 ml of 25% H2SO4 and 15 ml of water with the solution and stir it for few seconds. Then the chemical flask with the sample is set under a burette containing 0.1 N K2MNO4 next 0.1 N K2MNO4 is added to the sample solution one drop at a time until the solution turn into light pink color. The no of 0.1 N K2MNO4 drops required in the reading that is used to calculate the amount of H2O2 present in the mixing tank. 100% H2O2gm per 1 liter of solution is present in the mixing tank= 3.4 % reading. Fig: Scouring & Bleaching Machine.

  42. P a g e | 41 Fig: Flow diagram of Bleaching Machine. Machine Set-up: Describe bellow the machine set-up for scouring and bleaching process- Machine speed set up Fabric type With conveyer Without conveyer m/min m/min Scour and bleach Light/white 70-80 N/A Light/color 60-70 60 Medium/white 60-70 N/A Medium/color 60-65 45-50 Heavy/white 50-55 N/A Heavy/color 45 30 Scour only Light/white N/A N/A Light/color 60-70 90-95 Medium/white 60-70 N/A Medium/color 60-65 45-50

  43. P a g e | 42 Heavy/white 50-55 N/A Heavy/color 30-35 30-35 Bleach for white only Light/white 80-90 N/A Light/color N/A 90-95 Medium/white 70-80 N/A Medium/color N/A 45-50 Heavy/white 40-50 N/A Heavy/color N/A 30-35 Washing for yarn dyed Light and medium N/A 90-100 Washing for solid dyed Medium N/A 70-90 heavy N/A 50 Other parameters set up Machine set up parameters Actual value / range Machine set value Steaming time of conveyer dwell time for all fabrics Scour & bleach 22min 18-25 min Re – bleach- 26 min Scour- 20 min Temperature for washing 90-95˚ C 90˚ C Temp for steamer 102-106˚ C 104˚ C

  44. P a g e | 43 Pressure for padder 1.5-5 bar 2-3 bar Pressure for quizzer 2/3 bar 2.25-2.5 bar Compensator pressure 1.5/5 bar 2-3 bar Doctor blade position 1/2/3 2 Fabric position Face/back Face Chemical level N/A Up to level indicator Water level N/A Above the roller Dosing pump N/A Based on the recipe PLC is programmed. Check list before production: Item to be selected: Machine parameter section are set Manpower is available. Chemicals are available. All accessories are available. Fabric stitch with tape fabric is done. Sewing thread are available. The quality of the product depends on various machines parameters the machine speed pressure, temperature, pH, chemical level, tension etc. Operator must check these parameters in every 10 min and also check the follow the chemical frequently through the pump. Production quality check: During production the operator will check frequently the pH level of the solution by pH or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defects like spots on the fabric, fabric position, fabric sewing, selvage torn or any other abnormalities that can be detected by naked eye. Quality control sample test: QC department follow the pick percentage test method to verify the quality during the process. The other test that the QC department does fpr the mercerizing process is size

  45. P a g e | 44 test, width test, fabric whiteness and absorbency test. Thus test are done in every thousand meters. Mercerizing Mercerizing: Mercerizing is a process for increasing dye absorbency, strength and lusture of the fabric by chemical treatment. Process requirement: Equipment used: The GOLLER Mercerizing range machine. Key accessories: The necessary tools or accessories used for the mercerizing process are given bellow Sewing machine, sewing thread, cylinder, Baum meter, A-frame, handles for carriage, mixing tank, reserve tank, hand gloves, eye protecting gloves, clip/finger clip etc. The following fabrics go through the mercerizing process- All cotton fabric. TC / CVC fabric. Bull-Twill fabric. Materials / Chemicals used: The materials and chemicals used for the GOLLER mercerizing range machine for all cotton fabric TC or CVC fabric and Bull-Twill fabric are described bellow- Chemicals / Material used Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) Composition (28±2)º Be (Baume´) 267 gm/l (see note) 3-4 gm/l 3-4 % of total water 1-1.5 gm/l As required As required Mercerizing Oil (Mercirol QW2F) Green acid / Nurta acid (32%) Wetting agent Compressed air Steam, water Note: Density and concentration of NaOH at (25-40 ºC)

  46. P a g e | 45 Baume (°Be) gmNaOH 100% (per 1 L NaOH solution) 166.7 213.7 267.4 296.8 441.0 484.1 20 24 28 30 38 40 Fig: Mercerizing Machine. Production Procedure: Machine Set-up: Describe bellow the machine set-up for mercerizing process- Machine set up parameter Temperature of washing chamber Temperature of NaOH chamber Fabric position Reserve chemical caustic Reserve acid ( for all cotton TC or CVC fabric Actual parameter range Machine set value (90-95)°C 90°C (18-45) °C (40±5) °C Face or back 3-8 (6000-8000) L Face 6.5-7 (4000-6000) L (200-300) kg 200 kg

  47. P a g e | 46 Pressure Squeezer of impregnation 1 & 2 (2-4) bar (2-3.5) bar for all cotton TC/CVC 3 bar for Bull-Twill 2-3 for all cotton & TC fabric (2-4) bar Tension (% of fabric) 0-2 Padder pressure of washing Compensator Pressure (1.5-5) bar (1.5-5) bar (2-4) bar Check list before production: Item to be selected: Machine parameter section are set Manpower is available. Chemicals are available. All accessories are available. Fabric stitch with tape fabric is done. Sewing thread is available. Operation Procedure: Operator turns the machine (GOLLER Mercerizing range machine) on and set the machine at the desired speed given bellow. Processing continues until a frame or a batcher is complete or there arise any problem e.g. electrical, mechanical or utility. Type of fabric All cotton fabric (108×58/20×20), (128×60/20×16) (130×70/30×30), (133×72/40×40) TC or CVC fabric Bull-Twill fabric Machine Speed (m/min) 40-50 50 50-55 50-55 35-40

  48. P a g e | 47 Recovery chamber 300kg NaOH Mixing tank Mixing tank (cooling chamber temperature bellow 20°C) (NaOH solution + Mercirol QW) 700 l water IMP 1 IMP 2 Fig: Chemical flow of mercerizing machine. The quality of the product depends on various machines parameters the machine speed pressure, temperature, pH, chemical level, tension etc. Operator must check these parameters in every 10 min and also check the follow the chemical frequently through the pump. Production quality check: During production the operator will check frequently the pH level of the solution by pH or litmus paper check. The operator also check the cosmetic defects like spots on the fabric, fabric position, fabric sewing, selvage torn or any other abnormalities that can be detected by naked eye. Quality control sample test: QC department follow the pick percentage test method to verify the quality during the process. The other test that the QC department does for the mercerizing process is size test, width test, fabric whiteness and absorbency test. Thus test are done in every thousand meters.

  49. P a g e | 48 Chapter- Four DYEING SECTION

  50. P a g e | 49 Reactive Dyeing (CPB Process) Solid dyeing with reactive dyes (Cold Pad Batch or CPB process): Solid dyeing with reactive dye by CPB process is a batch process in which the fixation of dyes is carried out at low temperature (i.e. 25-28 °C) in the pressure of highly alkaline medium and by providing execs time (i.e. more than 8 hours). In CPB process the most important future is dyeing liquor and alkali solution which is prepared separately in separate tank than it is pumped by a dosing pump into the padding through with a color alkali ratio of 4:1. Fabric is impregnate with the liquor relatively at a high speed and squeeze by means of padding mangle to remove the surplus liquor and to live the dyeing liquor onto the fabric surface. After padding the fabric is winded on the A-frame in wet form and on completion of one batch. It is wrapped with the water proof material in order to prevent evaporation and stored for more than 12 hours. Finally it is washed in normal way. For storage batching stationed may be used where it should rotate at a rate of 5 to 7 revelation per minute. Impregnate with dye and alkali squeeze of surplus dyeing liquor Store wet Wash off Process requirement: Equipment: Monforts-Pad-Batch Key accessories:

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