Patternmaking

1. Patternmaking • Patternmaking  the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to product an apparel item. • The patternmaker transforms the design into a paper pattern so that the various pieces of the garment can be cut and sewn together to make the garment sample. • Grading  The technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size.

2. Making Samples • Samples are made to a ‘model’ fit size of 6, 8, or 10. • Live models or mannequins wear the samples, and the staff can make any final alterations and corrections before the garments are shown to retail buyers.

3. Costing • After the manufacturer completes the new garment, but before the retail buyers see it, the production costs of the garment must be calculated in order to set a wholesale price.

4. Costing • Wholesale  the price that retail buyers pay for goods they purchase from manufacturers. • Price includes: • Cost of Labor • Materials • Markup (~220%) • Commission paid to the sales staff • Terms, such as discounts to retail stores that pay bills on time. • Overhead, which includes rent, utilities, salaries, insurance, and advertising • Profit

5. Order Taking • When retail buyers place their orders, the manufacturer can begin to mass-produce the new garments. • Apparel is usually produced in dozens.

6. Garment Cutting and Sewing • Cut and sewn in an assembly line manner. • Computerized machinery cuts each pattern. • Layers of fabric are cut per pattern piece to create multiple pieces. • The number of garments cut at a time depends on the number of layers of fabric. • After the pattern pieces are cut, the garments are sewn together. • A different machine sews each section.

7. Garment Cutting and Sewing • Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM)  a system that automatically moves the garment parts through each phase of the cutting-and-sewing process.

8. Quality Control and Labeling • After a garment is constructed, an inspector checks it for flaws or mistakes. • If mistakes are found, the inspector returns the garment for correction. • The garment is then pressed, and labels and/or handtags are placed on the garment. • Handtags provide information such as the fabric content and care instructions. • Labels  Identify the name of the manufacturer line of clothing

9. Haute Couture vs. Pret-a-Porter • High-fashion designer clothing • Fabrics are created specifically for the designer • Custom-made by hand to fit the client • Require special fittings, cuttings, and sewing • Complicated and precise • Ready to wear • Practical and less expensive • Generates more income for couture fashion houses

10. Size Classifications • Sizing Systems  a set of sizes based on common assumptions and methods of development. • Standard measurements today vary from one manufacturer to another and are influenced by fashion, style, and fit preferences of a particular target market.

11. Sizes by Country

12. Sizes by Brands • Aeropostale Sizes • Kohl’s

13. Vanity Sizing • Some manufacturers of expensive fashions downsize their lines, because it gives the customer the illusion of being able to fit into a smaller size.