Home Composting 101

1. Home Composting 101 Dana Ecelberger, Jefferson County Conservation District Manager Roger Short, owner of Short’s Farm and Magical Soil March 1, 2014

2. The Magic of Composting

3. What is compost? It is a kind of miracle that we can take: manure, rotten food, leaves, dead plants, soil, newspaper, branches and just about any organic material to create a sweet smelling substance that: • conditions the soil • adds nutrients • kicks off chemical reactions that make available even more nutrients • increases water holding capacity • fights off disease and pests… but that is what compost is and does.

4. The Cycle of Life

5. Compost is: • Organic matter that has been decomposed to become a fertilizer and soil amendment. • By mixing browns (carboniferous material such as leaves, branches, newspaper, straw) and greens (nitrogenous material such as manure, grass clippings, food waste, plants from the garden) with water and air, we encourage aerobic bacteria, worms, and fungi to convert everything into heat, carbon dioxide and ammonium through biological & metabolic activity activity. • (Compost can also be made through anaerobic digestion but it is a smelly process and not recommended for the home gardener.) • Most home piles will take several months to “cook”.

6. All roads lead to compost

7. The Recipe • 3:1: 3 Carbon to 1 Nitrogen. This is where the energy comes from. High carbon materials tend to be brown and dry like leaves, straw, shredded newspaper and branches. • 1:3: 1 Nitrogen to 3 Carbon. This is where the organisms come from that “cook” the carbon. High nitrogen materials tend to be green or colorful, like food waste, grass clippings and plant trimmings. • Oxygen: This aids the decomposition process. Turning the pile helps to keep it aerated. • Water: The pile should have as much water as a wrung out sponge. The water keeps the biological activity alive and well.

8. How to build a compost pile • Clear a piece of ground the size you want your pile to be, or the size of your compost bin (I recommend just laying down unwaxed cardboard, several layers thick.) • An optimal size for a home compost pile is 3 feet wide, 3 feet across and 3 feet tall. You can go bigger but don’t go smaller and don’t go much over 8 feet. It is hard to get water and air into the center of a really large pile, without large equipment. • If you have ready materials, separate them into piles of browns and greens • Start the pile with a layer of slightly woody materials to make sure you have air flow from the bottom. • Use your piles to create alternating layers of brown and green. Remember 3 browns to 1 green so if you have 3 inches of leaves, use only 1 inch of grass clippings. • Use some larger woody material in the center of the pile to keep air circulating. • Add some llama, goat, rabbit, sheep, gerbil or chicken manure to help heat the pile. • Add some native soil to each layer and lightly water each layer. • Keep building until your reach your desired height. Cover with a layer of browns.

9. Cross section of a home compost pile

10. Do’s & Don’ts Do Compost: • Fallen leaves (B) • Finely chopped, woody prunings(B) • Pine needles (B) • Untreated wood sawdust (B) • Shredded newspaper & non glossy cardboard with tape removed (B) Do Compost: • Breads and grains (G) • Tea bags & coffee grounds(G) • Egg shells (in moderation)(G) • Lawn clippings (G) • Young weeds WITHOUT flowers or seed heads (G) • Vegetable & fruit scraps (G) • Manure from non-meat eating animals (G)

11. Some Don’ts • Don’t compost: • Meat, fish & bones • Dairy products • Greasy foods • Plywood or treated sawdust • Diseased plants • Dog, Cat, or bird feces • Poison oak or ivy Don’t compost: • Rhizominousplant material • BBQ or coal ashes • Plastics or other non-organic materials and compounds, including tape and glue • Weeds with flowers or seedheads • Avocado & egg shells take a long time to decompose so use sparingly

12. Maintaining and nurturing your pile • Keeping the ratios of carbon to nitrogen , air and water at an optimal level is the key to making good compost. Remember 3 Carbon to 1 Nitrogen, damp as a wrung out sponge and enough air flow to keep life respiring. • Turning your pile every 2-6 weeks will speed up the composting process. Having 2-3 piles in process is a good way to keep them turned regularly. Just turn the 1st one into the 2nd one and so on. Do this twice and you are probably ready to roll with beautiful compost. • Heat is an indication of biological activity. Having adequate air circulation will assist in creating adequate heat to properly “cook” your compost, as will adding some herbivore manure. Goat, sheep and llama manures are some of the least weedy. Horse and cow manure can be full of weeds. Be aware of animals which have been wormed and given antibiotics.

13. Compost Pile Vitals • Take the temperature of your pile to test if it is ready or not. You can do this with a compost thermometer or you can just plunge your hand in up to your elbow. When cooking, it should get hot enough to steam. When done it is cool to the touch. • A cold pile may take up to 6 months to turn into usable compost. A hot pile can be done in as little as 6 weeks, if turned regularly. • If it smells bad, rotten or rank, it is not getting enough oxygen and/or is too wet. Turn it, turn it, turn it. Keep your compost pile covered in the rainy season so it doesn’t become saturated. • If you are getting ANY kind of animal activity (rodents, raccoons, etc) in your pile then consider freezing your food wastes for a week before adding them to the pile. • If you are adding lots of woody debris to your pile as a carbon contribution, be sure to cut it or crush it into smaller pieces so it can break down. • If you are adding lots of grass, be sure to layer it with some browns. Big clumps of grass will break down slowly and will begin to smell rotten.

14. How do I know it is “done”? • Finished compost should look and smell like rich, dark soil. • The baggie test: Place some of your compost in a ziploc bag in a cool, dark place for a few days. It should smell good when you open the bag. If it smells rotten or strong then your compost needs to keep working for a while yet. • Large bits of decomposed food (especially avocado shells), or woody debris can be sifted out as long as the majority of the compost is completely decomposed. These bits can be added to a newer pile.

15. Vermiculture/Worm Bins

16. The anatomy of some common types of worm bins

17. Another great way to do urban, or small scale, composting is to use a worm bin. Although worm bins are “easy”, there are a few things to keep in mind to have a successful experience. • Earthworms are not the same worms that we use in worm bins. • Red wrigglers are the most commonly used in worm bins. These can be found online or locally. • Worm bins should not be allowed to freeze, dry out, overheat or become water logged. • Raccoons are mad for worms so keep your worm bin coon free with a secure lid. • Keep the bin filled to the top to discourage fly larvae.

18. Compost teaA great way to use your compost or worm compost is to make compost tea. This can be applied to houseplants, garden plants and even your kids if they aren’t growing fast enough! Well, not really but you get the idea… Compost tea Recipe: • 1.5 pounds compost • 1 ounce liquid kelp • 1 ounce soluble unsulphered black strap molasses • 2 ounces cane sugar • 1 tablespoon mycorrhizae Put the compost in a cheesecloth bag or burlap bag and then with other ingredients all together in a 32 gallon trash can and fill with water. Cover with a lid and place in a warm, not hot, location. Stir several times a day until it starts to bubble slightly. Scoop out with a watering can or pump out with a sump pump, if applying to a large area.