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Why Waves? Waves Features Waves Observed - PowerPoint PPT Presentation


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WAVES Intro. Why Waves? Waves Features Waves Observed. Why Waves?. Critical Factor for Coastal Region Beaches … summer fun, winter destruction Coastal economy Safety Shipping & Boating : ocean routes, coastal lanes Coastal Destruction : storm surges, tsunamis

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Presentation Transcript
slide1

WAVES

Intro

  • Why Waves?
  • Waves Features
  • Waves Observed
why waves
Why Waves?
  • Critical Factor for Coastal Region
    • Beaches … summer fun, winter destruction
    • Coastal economy
  • Safety
    • Shipping & Boating: ocean routes, coastal lanes
    • Coastal Destruction: storm surges, tsunamis
  • Coastal and Offshore Engineering
    • Shore Protection, Structures: design, survival
    • Mechanism for restoring natural equilibrium
  • Energy Source: Wave & Tidal Power
specific examples
Specific Examples
  • Vessel Berthing
  • Structure Design
  • Sediment Transport
  • Estuary Processes
  • Air / Sea Interaction
  • Oil Spill Response
vessel berthing

Direction #1

Biased Direction

Direction #2

Vessel Berthing
sediment transport

Direction #1

Biased Direction

Direction #2

Sediment Transport
background
Background
  • Wave characteristics
    • Periodic oscillation that propagates through space
    • Transfers energy but not mass
  • Engineering & Science Interest: Energy Variation
    • With frequency
    • With direction (and frequency)
describing waves
Describing Waves
  • Frequency (time variation)

sets Wavelength for wave type

  • Direction (propagation through space)
  • Height (2 x amplitude)
  • Energy (height 2) x wavelength
wave words
Wave Words

Figures taken from Oceanography of the British Columbia Coast, Richard E. Thompson

background1
Background
  • 1-d … wave propagates along line
    • Single wave: sinusoidal variation, amplitude, period
    • Wave group
  • 2-d … wave propagates across plane: direction
  • Two classes: long & short wavelength
    • Relative to water depth
    • Energy of short waves decays with depth
background2
Background
  • Two categories: sea and swell (co-exist)
    • Sea
      • High frequency, short waves
      • Surface variation appears random (snapshot)
      • Energy from local winds
    • Swell
      • Lower frequency, longer waves
      • Surface appears corrugated (more coherent), movement of crests more apparent
      • Energy from distant storms
waves spectrum
Waves Spectrum

SUN, MOON

STORMS, TSUNAMIS

WIND

Tides

storms swell
Storms & Swell
  • Strength
  • Duration
  • Fetch