Design and Product Development

1. Design and Product Development

2. 1.History of fashion design • The first fashion designer who was not simply a dressmaker was Charles Frederick Worth (1826–1895). Before the former draper set up his maison couture (fashion house) in Paris, clothing design and creation was handled by largely anonymous seamstresses, and high fashion descended from that worn at royal courts.

3. Worth‘s success was such that he was able to dictate to his customers what they should wear, instead of following their lead as earlier dressmakers had done. The term couturier(女设计师)was in fact first created in order to describe him. It was during this period that many design houses began to hire artists to sketch or paint designs for garments. The images alone to clients were much more cheaply than by producing an actual sample garment in the workroom. If the client liked the design, they ordered it and the resulting garment made money for the house. Thus, the tradition of designers sketching out garment designs instead of presenting completed garments on models to customers began as an economy.

4. 2.The definition of fashion design • Fashion design is the applied art dedicated to (用于) clothing and lifestyle accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time.

5. 3.Designing a collection(系列) • Planning a collection • Predicting trends • Choosing a theme • Designing a garment • Production(产品生产) • Distributing(销售)

6. Every collection is very carefully researched and planned so that all the items in it complement(互补) each other, and have the particular fashion look which the company is known for.

7. One of the hardest skills a fashion designer has to master is predicting future trends. To do this, they look at what the fashion directions have been in previous seasons, keep an eye on what others in the fashion business are doing, and read fashion forecasting magazines. They also rely on knowledge of their own customers to see which styles succeeded and which were less popular in past seasons. Perhaps most importantly, designers use their imaginations to come up with new ideas. They often choose a theme to provide inspiration.

8. The theme of a collection can be a period in history, a foreign place, a range of colors, a type of fabric - anything which has a strong visual impact.

9. 4.Areas of work • There are three main ways in which designers can work: • Working freelance: Freelance designers works for themselves. They sell their work to fashion houses, direct to shops, or to clothing manufacturers. The garments bear the buyer's label. • Working In-house: In-house designers are employed full-time by one fashion company. Their designs are the property of that company, and cannot be sold to anyone else. • Setting up a company: Fashion designers often set up their own companies. A lot of designers find this more satisfying than working for someone else, as their designs are sold under their own label.

10. 5.Fashion design around the world • only five nations have established truly international reputations in fashion design. These countries are France, the United Kingdom, the United States of America, Italy, and Japan. Below are brief descriptions of the fashion industry in each country.

11. French fashion design • Most French fashion houses are in Paris, which is the capital of French fashion and of the world. Traditionally, French fashion is chic and stylish, defined by its sophistication, cut, and smart accessories.

12. American fashion design • The majority of American fashion houses are based in New York, although there are also a significant number in Los Angeles, where a substantial percentage of clothing manufactured in the US is actually made, and Chicago, which was once a center of American fashion. American fashion design is dominated by a clean-cut, casual style, reflecting the athletic, health-conscious lifestyles of many American city-dwellers.

13. Japanese fashion design • Most Japanese fashion houses are in Tokyo. The Japanese look is loose and unstructured (often resulting from complicated cutting), colours tend to the sombre(阴暗) and subtle(微妙), and richly textured fabrics.

14. Fashion journalism and the internet • French ELLE the first online fashion magazine, • FashionWindows is among these pioneers and has celebrated its 10 th anniversary in 2007 • Boo.com as the company burned through $135 million in 18 months. • SHOWstudio.com and Style.com, • FashionReporters • Beauty Flow

16. Fashion Designers • Nature of the Work Clothing designers create and help produce men,women, and children apparel, including casual wear, suits, sportswear, formalwear. Footwear designers help create and produce different styles of shoes and boots.

17. Accessory designers help create and produce items such as handbags, belts, hats. The design process from initial design concept to final production takes between 18 and 24 months.

18. Role of the designer • Hign-fashion or “name” designers The full range of decisions of a fashion house establishing the image and creating designs for the company Stylist-designers manufacturers and adapt the designs of others

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27. 05Paul Smith伦敦秋冬时装发布会 • 提到本季的灵感，Paul Smith说是源自自己的18岁女儿和他的朋友，她们参加工作面试时，她们喜爱从妈妈的衣柜中寻找适当的衣服来搭配。因此带有拿破仑帝政风格的高腰线洋装、短身斗篷、男装版本的合身长裤、紧身瘦腿裤、彩色毛料紧身上衣，加上Paul Smith一贯注重的手工缝制长裤、阿尔盖菱纹的针织上衣、水洗处理的丝绒花朵刺绣洋装等，整体都是非常的Paul Smith Style，无疑是18岁小女生疯狂的最爱。

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36. 服装样片设计是服装设计的重要环节，不同服装CAD中该部分的思想基本相同，即利用鼠标、数字化仪代替画笔，利用显示器代替纸进行设计；尽管计算机辅助的样片设计许多方面提高了工作效率，但仍然是服装设计中最为耗时的一项工作。客观地讲传统手工样片设计与计算机样片设计仅仅是工具的改变和进步。尽管如省、褶、浪峰芬等特殊元素的生成速度远高于手工，其设计的基本过程仍然没有改变，计算机仍然无法捕捉设计师的全部思想，它没法减少样片设计中的某个具体步骤，仅仅是简化了该步骤而已。服装样片设计是服装设计的重要环节，不同服装CAD中该部分的思想基本相同，即利用鼠标、数字化仪代替画笔，利用显示器代替纸进行设计；尽管计算机辅助的样片设计许多方面提高了工作效率，但仍然是服装设计中最为耗时的一项工作。客观地讲传统手工样片设计与计算机样片设计仅仅是工具的改变和进步。尽管如省、褶、浪峰芬等特殊元素的生成速度远高于手工，其设计的基本过程仍然没有改变，计算机仍然无法捕捉设计师的全部思想，它没法减少样片设计中的某个具体步骤，仅仅是简化了该步骤而已。

37. 推档系统是服装CAD技术应用最早的软件产品，它淋漓尽致的反映了计算机在服装辅助设计方面的优越性。样片推档是设计师所面临的最为繁琐枯燥的工作，也是传统手工服装设计过程中最为费时的一个环节，大量重复性的计算依靠人工完成是极易出错而且极为耗时的。利用计算机的高速运算能力和无以伦比的精确性，基本上解决了这一长期困挠企业的问题。不论用什么方法利用计算机进行推档操作，都比传统的手工推档更加科学，其效率和精确度也更高。借助于计算机进行推档，使得以前用天来计算的工作量，现在可以用分钟或秒来计算，是计算机辅助设计提高生产力最典型的例子推档系统是服装CAD技术应用最早的软件产品，它淋漓尽致的反映了计算机在服装辅助设计方面的优越性。样片推档是设计师所面临的最为繁琐枯燥的工作，也是传统手工服装设计过程中最为费时的一个环节，大量重复性的计算依靠人工完成是极易出错而且极为耗时的。利用计算机的高速运算能力和无以伦比的精确性，基本上解决了这一长期困挠企业的问题。不论用什么方法利用计算机进行推档操作，都比传统的手工推档更加科学，其效率和精确度也更高。借助于计算机进行推档，使得以前用天来计算的工作量，现在可以用分钟或秒来计算，是计算机辅助设计提高生产力最典型的例子

38. 排料是计算机辅助设计另一种典型应用。计算机不断将当前的工作结果或状态告知操作人员，操作人员将根据这些信息利用软件工具不断调整排料方法，最终达到理想利用率的一种方式。自动排料是指通过复杂的数学方法，利用计算机自动计算全部样片不同排列方法的面料利用率，并自动选择最佳的排列方式，该方法不需人工参与，几乎全部的排料工作均由计算机自动完成。但是，理论上最为准确的计算方法是列举全部排料方式，进而选择最佳方案，而上百片不规则的样片，其排列组合方式的数目几乎无法用数字来表达，即使利用目前最为先进的计算机也无法在短时间内完成。因此，为适合于实际生产需要，软件大多通过其他数学方法完成，以在运算利用率之间作一个折衷，其结果往往是不尽人意，始终无法达到有经验的排料人员的面料利用率，仅能作为辅助性的工具使用。排料是计算机辅助设计另一种典型应用。计算机不断将当前的工作结果或状态告知操作人员，操作人员将根据这些信息利用软件工具不断调整排料方法，最终达到理想利用率的一种方式。自动排料是指通过复杂的数学方法，利用计算机自动计算全部样片不同排列方法的面料利用率，并自动选择最佳的排列方式，该方法不需人工参与，几乎全部的排料工作均由计算机自动完成。但是，理论上最为准确的计算方法是列举全部排料方式，进而选择最佳方案，而上百片不规则的样片，其排列组合方式的数目几乎无法用数字来表达，即使利用目前最为先进的计算机也无法在短时间内完成。因此，为适合于实际生产需要，软件大多通过其他数学方法完成，以在运算利用率之间作一个折衷，其结果往往是不尽人意，始终无法达到有经验的排料人员的面料利用率，仅能作为辅助性的工具使用。