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12.02 Basic Construction
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  1. 12.02 Basic Construction

  2. Pinning a Pattern • Define: • Grain • Selvage • Grain line arrow

  3. Pinning a Pattern • Must place pattern on fabric lengthwise grain • Each end of the grain line arrow should measure the same distance from the selvage • Pin the pattern in place every 6 inches • Pin corners diagonally • Pin perpendicular to fold lines and cutting lines • Make sure pin through fabric and pattern

  4. Cutting a Pattern • Define: • Cutting Line • Notches • Pattern guide sheet • Dots

  5. Cutting a Pattern • Notches are used to match pattern pieces • Use long even strokes with dressmaker shears

  6. Cutting fabric with pattern • Check pattern guide • Follow directions carefully • Double check grain before cutting • Use dressmaker shears

  7. Tracing a Pattern • Use tracing paper and tracing wheel on wrong side of the fabric • Use just enough pressure for marks to show • Marks needed: • Center front • Center back • Darts • Buttons • Button holes • Dots • pockets

  8. Sewing a Simple Seam • Define: • Seam • Stitching Line • Seam allowance

  9. Sewing a simple seam • Seam finishes are sewn after seam to prevent raw edges • Use pinking shears (easiest) • Zigzag finish • Use stitch width control • 5/8” is standard seam allowance • Use guide line on machine • Always backstitch at the beginning and end • Presser foot must be down

  10. Sewing on a Button • Define: • Shank

  11. Sewing on a Button • Use 2 strands of thread • Cross over to make an X with thread while sewing on button

  12. Sewing a Hem • Final step • Mark where hem should be • Needs to be flat • Types of finishes • Turn and stitch • Stitch and pinked • Zigzag • Seam Binding