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Few household events feel as unnerving as watching winged insects pour out of a baseboard, a porch post, or a basement window seam. Termite swarm season doesn’t look like the dramatic wood-gnawing from cartoons. It looks like a quiet, fluttering cloud of alates, then a litter of wings on the floor and a handful of ants that aren’t ants. If you’ve seen that, you’re standing at a fork in the road. One way is denial and DIY guessing. The other is a measured response, calling a pest control contractor at the right time with the right evidence. The second route usually costs less and saves more wood. I’ve walked hundreds of properties during swarm season, from 1950s slab-on-grade ranches to century-old Victorians with stacked stone crawlspaces. Every spring, the same questions return. Are these ants or termites? Is this a one-off event? Will a spray from the home center solve it? What will a pest control company actually do? The answers depend on species, structure, and timing, but there are reliable patterns you can use to make a smart decision. What a termite swarm really means Swarms are the reproductive phase of a mature termite colony. The winged termites you see are alates, produced after the colony reaches a certain size and age. They take flight to start new colonies. That’s the headline, but the fine print matters. In most cases, swarming from inside a house means you already have an established colony feeding within or against the structure. Swarms originating outdoors, along foundations or fence lines, signal colonies close enough to future-proof your home. You can think of a swarm as a smoke alarm. The fire began years earlier, usually in hidden areas like sill plates, crawlspace joists, or foam board backfilled against the slab. If you only sweep wings and skip inspection, you may silence the alarm and miss the heat. There are exceptions. Newly built homes can have alates pop out of scrap wood or landscaping materials that were brought in during construction. I’ve also seen drywood termites in coastal markets swarm into attic spaces through vent screens and never establish. Still, the prudent stance after an indoor swarm is to assume an infestation until a professional inspection proves otherwise. Timing varies by species and climate Expand the calendar beyond a single “termite season.” Different species have different rhythms, and local weather shifts everything. Subterranean termites, the most common in much of the United States, typically swarm in late winter through pest control service spring as soil warms and humidity rises, often after rain. Eastern subterraneans can flare in March and April. Formosan subterraneans in the Gulf and parts of the Southeast often swarm later, late spring into early summer, and can do so at night. Drywood termites, common in coastal and arid regions, often swarm in late summer and fall, especially in the afternoon when temperatures rise and interior humidity drops. Dampwood termites tend to swarm in summer near wet wood and are more tied to
moisture issues. If you’re seeing alates in January in Minnesota, odds are you’re looking at ants or a heat-triggered oddity in an interior void. If you’re in Houston with porch lights covered in swarmers around Memorial Day, Formosan termites jump to the top of the list. Local experience matters here. Any reputable exterminator company can tell you what swarms when in your zip code because swarm calls come in waves. Ants or termites? Field checks that don’t require a microscope Misidentifying swarmers leads to wasted money in both directions. You don’t need lab gear to sort this out if you look closely. Termites have straight antennae, a broad waist, and two pairs of wings equal in size that are longer than the body. The wings have a fine, almost milky look and shear off easily, so piles of wings near windows or baseboards are common after a swarm. Ants have elbowed antennae, a pinched waist, and unequal wing pairs, with the forewings longer than the hindwings. They also tend to be more robust and quicker on their feet. If you can, trap a couple under a glass, set them against white paper, and use your phone’s zoom. That few minutes can change the course of your next steps. Where swarms show up and why that matters Swarms aren’t random. The exit points often lead you to the problem. In basements, watch expansion joints in slabs, the cold joint where slab meets wall, and the base of framed walls. In crawlspaces, look at piers, sill plates, and any place plastic vapor barriers are punctured. In above-grade living spaces, window sills and door frames are common because alates head toward light. I’ve found hidden colonies because a homeowner noticed two dozen wings on the top sash of a rarely opened double-hung window. Exterior swarms near foundation landscaping are common too. Mulch piled high against siding, planters that hold water, and foam-backed stucco can all conceal activity. If swarmers erupt from a fence post or tree stump 10 feet from the house, that’s not a crisis, but it is a cue to schedule an inspection before those termites build a satellite colony under your slab. Why you shouldn’t treat swarms like a one-time nuisance People often reach for an aerosol labeled “ant and termite killer” and feel successful when the fluttering cloud disappears. Sprays knock down alates because they’re fragile, not because the product reached the colony. The workers and soldiers that matter are in the soil or deep within wood. I’ve opened walls where previous teams had sprayed baseboards during swarms for three consecutive springs. The studs were notched like flutes behind crisp paint. If you saw enough swarmers to notice them, the colony had the resources to produce them. That energy comes from the wood in your home. A temporary spray is a bandage, not a treatment. The decision point: When to call a pest control contractor The right time to call is earlier than most people think. You need a professional inspection if you see any of the following. Winged insects indoors that match termite traits, piles of discarded wings, or frass that looks like coffee grounds or sand in neat piles against wood Mud tubes on foundation walls, piers, or sill plates, pencil-width or larger Soft or blistered wood that dents easily with a screwdriver, especially along baseboards or window frames Swarms outside along the foundation after rain, especially in neighborhoods with known activity If you caught a single wingless insect and you’re not sure, call for advice. Many pest control services will look at a photo and give you a first read for free. If you discover mud tubes or soft wood, do not break them all off before an inspection. Pros read mud tubes the way a mechanic reads a spark plug. What a thorough inspection includes
A careful inspection is not a quick walk-through with a spray can. A professional from a reputable pest control company will start with a conversation. Where did you see activity, when, what changed recently? Then the structure gets mapped. For a typical house, that means the perimeter, attached garages, crawlspaces, basements, utility penetrations, and plumbing chases. Moisture meters and probing tools help, but experience matters even more. I’ve found more colonies by crouching to eye-level with a sill plate seam than by gadget alone. Access drives quality. A crawlspace that’s tight or piled with storage might hide the evidence. If the pest control contractor asks to reschedule after you clear access points, he’s doing you a favor. Good notes and photos should accompany the inspection, not just a verbal “we saw some tubes.” Some structures warrant extra steps. For high-risk homes, a pest control service may recommend a borescope to check wall voids, or a limited destructive inspection if a high-value beam shows signs but is wrapped. Most states allow companies to issue a graph of the structure, noting conducive conditions like wood-to-soil contact, leaky hose bibs, or negative grading. Keep this document. It becomes a baseline for future annual checks. Treatment options that actually work There are two main families for subterranean termite control, and both can be effective when applied correctly: soil-applied liquid termiticides and baiting systems. There are also wood treatments and foams for localized drywood infestations, and Fipronil dusts or aerosols for wall voids. The choice depends on species, construction, and your risk tolerance. Liquid termiticides create a treated zone in soil around and under the structure. Modern non-repellent products don’t repel termites, they allow termites to pass through treated soil and transfer the active ingredient to others. Done well, trenching and, when needed, sub-slab injection interrupts foraging and wipes out colonies that contact the barrier. The treatment must be continuous, which means drilling through sidewalks, garage slabs, or slabs at porches if they abut the house. If a company proposes a “partial” without a clear reason, ask what gap remains and why. Bait systems station cartridges around the perimeter that termites feed on and carry back to the colony. They can eliminate entire colonies over time and work well in sites where trenching is impractical or where groundwater concerns steer you away from widespread liquid use. The tradeoff is speed and maintenance. Baits require monitoring and often take a few months to bring pressure down, especially for heavy Formosan pressure. If your pest control contractor installs baits, ask about visit frequency and how they handle missed services. Drywood termites often call for targeted approaches. Localized injections with borates or non-repellents, combined with wood replacement, can solve small pockets in accessible areas. Larger or scattered infestations in certain regions still justify whole- structure fumigation. That’s rare for interior United States homes with subterranean issues but common on the coast with drywood pressure. If someone suggests tenting for a standard subterranean swarm in a slab-on-grade home, get a second opinion. The money question, answered with ranges and context Costs vary widely, but you can ballpark them by method and structure size. A full perimeter liquid treatment for a typical single- family home in a moderate market might run 1,200 to 2,500 dollars, more for larger footprints or complicated drilling. Bait system installations can be similar upfront, sometimes slightly less, with ongoing monitoring fees that run a few hundred dollars per year. Whole-structure fumigation for drywood termites ranges from 1,500 to over 3,000 dollars depending on cubic footage and roof complexity. If a price seems too good to be true, it usually is. Under-treating soil or skipping slab injections saves the company labor and time, not you headaches. The cheapest line item can become the most expensive if you end up back at square one two springs from now. How to vet a pest control company without getting lost in jargon Look for state licensing, insurance, and membership in reputable trade associations. Ask how many termite jobs they completed in your area in the past year. Seasoned companies can talk plainly about local soil types, typical construction details, and common entry points. Generic pitches often hide a lack of real fieldwork.
I ask three direct questions when I evaluate another provider’s plan: What’s your map of the treatment zone, where will you drill or trench, and what obstacles could leave a gap? If the representative can show you each drill location on the slab and talk through expansion joint details, you’re in good hands. If you hear only brand names and lifetime guarantees without a plan, keep shopping. Service matters after the initial treatment. A pest control service worth hiring writes down what they did, schedules follow-ups, and returns your calls. Re-treatment provisions, transferability if you sell the house, and what happens if swarm activity recurs should be clear on paper. Warranties and promises, decoded Many termite control services offer warranties, often annual contracts that include inspections and re-treatment if new activity appears. Read the scope. Some cover only re-treatments, not damage repair. Some require you to maintain gutters, fix leaks, and keep wood clear of soil, which is reasonable. The best warranties align incentives: you keep conducive conditions in check, the company keeps pressure off your home. Beware of vague “lifetime” promises that reset each year only if you pay for monitoring, or that exclude half the structure. Ask what voids the warranty. I’ve seen warranties canceled for landscaping changes that covered bait stations, but the homeowner never knew. Good companies communicate those constraints upfront. What you can do now to reduce risk Not all prevention requires a truck and a drill. A few building habits make a big difference. Keep soil and mulch below the top of the foundation, ideally several inches of visible concrete. Fix plumbing leaks promptly. Direct downspouts away from the foundation. Don’t store firewood against the house or on soil. If you have a crawlspace, maintain a vapor barrier and adequate ventilation, and keep the area clear so it can be inspected. These steps are not a substitute for treatment if you have an infestation. They are insurance for the future. I’ve watched homeowners buy five more quiet years simply by lowering grade away from siding and cutting a drip edge in heavy clay soils. Edge cases that fool people Two situations create false reassurance. First, seasonal dormancy. In colder regions, subterranean termites slow down as soil temperatures drop. People see no surface evidence in winter and assume the issue resolved itself. It didn’t. The colony will resume when soil warms. Second, cosmetic remodels. Removing paneling or drywall can expose damaged studs. Painting them and reinstalling finishes hides the problem without removing the cause. I’ve opened “just remodeled” basements and found active galleries behind brand-new trim. There’s also the opposite error: overreacting to harmless signs. Carpenter ants, for example, eject frass that looks like pencil shavings from smooth exit holes and often wake up earlier in spring. They require a different approach. Powderpost beetles produce fine flour-like frass from tiny round holes in wood. Good pest control contractors can separate these quickly. Why bed bug extermination shows up in termite season talks It seems unrelated, but many homeowners reach for the same provider when any pest crisis hits. During swarm season, a pest control company’s phone rings off the hook. The same office may also be handling bed bug extermination, rodents in attics, and mosquito treatments. The reason this matters to you is scheduling and specialization. If your problem is termites, ask for the technician who does most of the termite work, not the generalist who spent the day doing an exterminator service for roaches. Most firms have both. Skill sets overlap, but the best outcomes come from focus. A homeowner’s short checklist during swarm season Collect evidence: save a few specimens in a small container and take clear photos near a ruler or coin Protect the scene: don’t vacuum all the wings or wipe all mud tubes before inspection Call a licensed pest control contractor and ask for a
termite inspection window within a few days Ask for a treatment map that shows trenching, drilling, or bait locations Address moisture: fix any active leaks and correct obvious water against the foundation If you follow those steps, you give any exterminator company a head start on an accurate plan. What treatment day looks like Expect a couple of hours for a standard liquid application, longer for large footprints or complex slab drilling. Technicians trench soil around the perimeter, often 6 inches wide and deep enough to reach the footings or prescribed depth, then inject termiticide. Where hardscape meets the house, they drill holes spaced along expansion joints and inject under slabs. Indoors, you may see small drill holes at baseboards if interior slab injection is necessary, later patched and matched. Bait installations are quicker per visit but require return trips to check consumption and swap cartridges. Good crews keep a clean site, replace soil neatly, and rinse concrete. If landscaping will be disturbed, they should tell you ahead of time. I warn clients about short-term ant activity after treatments. Disturbing soil can stir other insects that settle within a couple of days. Evidence of success, and what’s normal afterward After a proper treatment, obvious signs usually stop quickly. Mud tubes dry and crumble. Wood probing that once sank in now meets resistance where moisture levels drop. It’s still possible to see a few stray alates, exterminator service especially if you’re within a broader neighborhood swarm window. A few flyers near windows, without new wings piles or ongoing mud tube growth, doesn’t mean failure. Your pest control service should schedule a follow-up to confirm and reassure. For bait systems, success begins with hits on monitors, followed by consumption of bait and a tapering of new activity in subsequent checks. Formosan pressure may take longer to tamp down because of colony size and the possibility of multiple colonies in a block. The intersection of building science and termite control Termite management isn’t just chemistry. It’s construction. I walk a lot of homes where a simple detail created a highway. Foam board insulation that runs from footer to siding without a break, decorative stone veneer installed below grade, or landscaping that raises soil to the weep holes all create concealed access. Pest control contractors who understand building envelopes catch these details. The best fixes are often structural: cutting foam back to leave a visible inspection gap, adjusting grade, swapping wood posts on patios for steel with saddle brackets that break wood-to-soil contact. When your exterminator service points out those items, they’re not upselling a remodel. They’re explaining why termites found you. When to seek a second opinion Get another set of eyes if a plan recommends whole-structure fumigation for a clearly subterranean situation, if a company refuses to drill where slab abuts the structure without explanation, or if a provider dismisses your evidence without inspecting concealed areas. Second opinions are normal in medical care and make equal sense here. Bring your photos and any written proposal to the next pest control company. Comparative plans help you choose wisely. Selling or buying a home during swarm season Real estate timelines rarely align with termite swarms. If you’re selling and you’ve had activity, have the work done by a licensed pest control contractor with documentation and transferable warranty. Buyers trust papers more than promises. If you’re buying, ask for the termite or wood-destroying insect report, read the conducive conditions section, and understand what the seller did in response. I’ve advised buyers to budget a treatment immediately after closing when reports said “no visible evidence” but conditions were textbook for hidden issues. Final thoughts from the field
Termites are slow-motion problems. They almost never require panic, but they always reward prompt, informed action. Swarm season is the best early warning you’ll get. Use it. Save specimens, call a qualified pest control company, ask for a clear map and method, and fix the moisture and construction details that invited the colony in the first place. And if you’re tempted to wait it out, remember the quiet house where I pulled a baseboard and watched wood turn to lace between my fingers. The paint looked perfect. The studs did not. A week’s delay didn’t cause that damage, but another year would have doubled it. Good termite control services don’t just kill insects. Done right, they buy you decades of structural peace. Howie the Bugman Pest Control Address: 3281 SW 3rd St, Deerfield Beach, FL 33442 Phone: (954) 427-1784