Top 10 Questions to Ask Your Auto Glass Shop

1. Trusting a stranger with the only thing between your face and a 65‑mph crosswind takes more than a good price. A windshield is part of your car’s safety system, not a pane of decor. The right auto glass shop keeps you safe, dry, and headache‑free. The wrong one leaves you with wind noise, water leaks, early cracks, or worse, a windshield that doesn’t hold in a collision. I’ve worked with shops on both sides of the counter, from mobile auto glass service vans in grocery parking lots to OEM‑certified facilities that look like surgical suites. The tooling matters. The adhesive matters even more. But the conversation you have before work starts is where the job is won or lost. Here are the ten questions that separate pros from pretenders, with context to help you spot a confident, competent answer. 1) What type of glass will you install, and why? There are four common categories you’ll hear: OEM, OE, OEE, and aftermarket. The letters matter less than the explanation that follows. A reputable auto glass shop will walk you through trade‑offs instead of hiding behind buzzwords. OEM glass comes from the original automaker’s contracted supplier. It tends to fit perfectly, with the correct curvature and embedded hardware for features like rain sensors, head‑up display, or acoustic interlayers. It often costs more, sometimes a lot more, and insurance doesn’t always cover the extra. OE and OEE indicate a part built by an original supplier but shipped outside the automaker’s channel. You can get identical performance for less, but verify that the branding, optical clarity, and accessory mounts match your vehicle’s spec. Aftermarket glass ranges from decent to troublesome. The best aftermarket options meet DOT and ANSI Z26.1 standards and carry reputable brand marks. The worst look fine on the rack, then give you distortion at the edges, poor frit coverage, or camera calibration headaches. A shop with real depth will ask your VIN and options, then pull the exact part number. If the person at the counter shrugs and says, “They’re all the same,” keep your wallet in your pocket. Glass isn’t a commodity, especially for late‑model cars with embedded tech. 2) Which adhesive system do you use, and what is the safe drive‑away time? Most drivers focus on the glass and forget the glue. That glue is polyurethane urethane, and it’s doing more than sealing out rain. It bonds your windshield to the body and allows the glass to help the airbags deploy correctly. The difference between a $9 tube and a premium OEM‑approved urethane is the difference between a safe vehicle and a risky one. Ask for the brand and product line. Products from Sika, Dow, 3M, and other Tier‑1 suppliers have technical data sheets and specified safe drive‑away times. Those times range from 30 minutes to several hours depending on temperature, humidity, and whether the vehicle has passenger‑side airbags. A careful tech measures conditions and adjusts. A sloppy one says, “You’re good right away,” no matter the weather. If they can’t show you the urethane’s label or won’t commit to a documented cure time, move on. Also ask whether they use primer and activator on the pinch weld and the glass. Skipping those steps risks adhesion failure and rust. The good shops treat the car like a safety device, not a window frame. 3) How do you protect the vehicle’s body and interior during the job? It takes two minutes to mask the dashboard and fenders, stuff a towel under the cowl, and set up stands so the new windshield never touches a dirty floor. Those two minutes save hours of cleanup and prevent trim scratches and paint chips that only show up after you drive away. Ask whether they use a power‑cut system that cuts through urethane cleanly, or if they still rely on cold knives and bare metal blades. Either can work in skilled hands, but cutting through the old bead without nicking the pinch weld is the goal. Fresh chips in the pinch weld lead to rust, and rust undermines adhesion. A shop that talks about rust inhibition, vacuuming the channel, and wiping with alcohol before applying primer is speaking your language. A detail I like to see: new single‑use gloves when handling the inside edge of the glass. Skin oils interfere with bonding. It’s small, but these small habits are tells.

2. 4) Will you recalibrate my ADAS cameras and sensors, and how? If your car has lane keeping, automatic emergency braking, or adaptive cruise, the forward camera usually looks through the windshield. Replace the glass and you change the camera’s optical path. Some cars will refuse to engage driver assistance until the camera is calibrated. Others will pretend everything is fine until the system misreads lane lines at dusk. Both scenarios are avoidable. There are two types of calibration: static and dynamic. Static uses targets, lasers, and, ideally, a level floor with controlled lighting. Dynamic requires driving a route at a steady speed while the scan tool guides the process. Many cars need both. The right answer here is detailed. “We have OE‑approved targets for your make, and we perform a static calibration in‑house, then a dynamic drive. We’ll document the scan before and after.” If they outsource to a dealer, that can be fine, but it should be scheduled and transparent. Beware anyone who says, “We just clear the codes,” or “It’s not necessary.” It is necessary on most 2015‑newer vehicles and increasingly mandatory on older models with rain sensors and LDW cameras. Ask for the calibration report, not just a handshake. 5) What’s your warranty, and what does it actually cover? A lifetime warranty on workmanship is common among reputable shops. That usually means they’ll fix air or water leaks, wind noise, or molding issues as long as you own the vehicle. Most do not cover new rock chips or cracks from impact, which is fair. Glass is sacrificial. Ask about stress cracks, which can appear when the glass was set under tension or the car body flexed during installation. A quality shop will own those and replace the glass. Also ask how to make a claim. Do you call a local number and see the same people, or are you routed to a national call center that might send a different contractor? If they offer a mobile auto glass service for warranty fixes, great. A warranty that requires you to drive 60 miles for a leak adjustment is not much of a warranty. Read the fine print. Some shops quietly exclude rain sensor reattachment or ADAS calibration from warranty coverage. That’s a red flag. If they performed the work, they should stand behind it. 6) Do you offer mobile service, and what changes if I choose it? A skilled mobile tech can perform an excellent windshield replacement in your driveway. The key variables are weather, workspace, and equipment. Polyurethane cures differently in cold and damp conditions. Dusty, windy environments complicate primer and urethane application. Mobile vans that carry proper stands, a controlled environment for the glass, and a canopy show you they’ve thought about this. Ask whether mobile work changes your safe drive‑away time, or if certain jobs must be done in shop. For example, static ADAS calibrations require targets and level floors, which most driveways can’t provide. Some car window glass replacement on frameless coupe doors needs careful alignment that a shop bay makes easier. Conversely, simple windshield repair, like a rock chip fix, is often ideal for mobile service if the crack is small and the glass is dry. If you choose mobile, clear a space out of direct wind and sun and plan for the cure time. A rain shower midway through can ruin a bond. A professional will reschedule rather than risk it, and you want the tech who’s willing to say no to bad conditions. 7) How do you handle rust, previous adhesive, and trim clips? Every car tells a story when the old glass comes out. The black bead of urethane sometimes hides pinhole rust along the pinch weld, especially if a previous installer scratched the paint. That rust must be removed or treated before new adhesive goes in. Otherwise, adhesion is compromised, Spartanburg auto glass repair and the corrosion spreads beneath the paint. Ask how they prep the channel. The correct approach is to leave about 1 to 2 millimeters of the original, well‑bonded urethane on the flange, then apply primer and fresh urethane to that. Cutting the channel to bare metal is not ideal unless rust requires it, and if they do reach bare metal, they should use the urethane manufacturer’s approved primer system and allow it to flash per spec.

3. Plastic trim clips and cowl fasteners break. Good shops keep an inventory of your vehicle’s clips or order them ahead of time. They should replace broken clips, not rely on glue or hope. An installer who says, “We’ll silicone that,” is patching, not fixing. On certain vehicles, like German sedans with complex A‑pillar moldings, correct clip installation prevents whistle noises at highway speed and keeps the molding from lifting in a car wash. 8) What’s your process for windshield repair versus replacement? Not every crack requires a new windshield. Many chips and short cracks respond well to resin injection. Proper windshield repair involves cleaning the impact point, creating a vent if needed, drawing a vacuum to remove air and moisture, then filling with UV‑curing resin until the crack lines vanish or fade to a faint ghost. The goal is structural stabilization more than perfect cosmetic invisibility. Ask how they decide between windshield repair and windshield replacement. A trustworthy shop considers crack length, location, and contamination. Cracks in the driver’s direct line of sight can refract light after repair, which distracts at night. Some shops refuse to repair those. Cracks longer than a few inches can be stabilized, but success rates drop if dirt and water have lived inside them for weeks. The climate matters too. In freezing weather, moisture in a chip expands, making things worse. If the first answer you hear is “We only replace,” you might be paying more than you need to. Conversely, if they promise to “repair anything,” they’re bluffing. There’s a middle ground informed by training and a little honesty. 9) Are your technicians certified, and do you follow OEM repair procedures? Certificates don’t swing a cold knife, but they prove someone invested in standards. Look for independent credentials like AGSC certification, I‑CAR training, or OEM glass program recognition. Many automakers publish service bulletins that specify adhesive types, bead shapes, glass setting depth, and calibration steps. Following those procedures isn’t optional if you want the car to protect you as designed. Ask to see a copy of the relevant OEM procedure for your model. Shops that build process around documentation will have it handy. They’ll also keep torque specs for mirror mounts and camera brackets, which seem trivial until your mirror won’t hold position on a rough road. I like to ask what they do when something doesn’t fit. A pro will say, “We stop, call the supplier, and check the part number against the VIN. We don’t force a molding or stretch a universal trim.” The words “universal” and “close enough” rarely lead to happy outcomes in auto glass replacement. 10) What will the total cost be, including calibration, moldings, and tax? Sticker shock usually comes from forgotten line items, not price gouging. A thorough estimate includes the glass, urethane and primer, moldings and clips, shop supplies, ADAS calibration, and taxes. Some cars require heated wiper park elements or humidity sensors that transfer from the old glass with single‑use pads. Those pads add a few dollars and a few minutes. If they’re missing, your automatic climate control behaves oddly on damp mornings. Insurance complicates things. If you’re using comprehensive coverage for windshield replacement, ask whether the shop bills your insurer directly and if they honor your deductible without surprise fees. Some policies waive deductibles for windshield repair but not replacement. A seasoned service advisor will help you decide which route makes financial and practical sense. On typical mainstream sedans, a quality windshield replacement might land between a few hundred and a thousand dollars, depending on features. Luxury brands and vehicles with advanced head‑up displays can climb well past that. If a quote seems too good to be true, it probably leaves out calibration or uses glass you’ll regret. How a good shop sounds when you ask You’re listening for specifics and calm confidence. When you ask about adhesive, you want to hear brand names and cure times tied to your weather. When you ask about ADAS, you want a plan, not a shrug. When you ask about warranty, you want a path to service, not legalese. This isn’t about catching someone out. It’s about aligning expectations before a tech rolls up with a suction cup and a hurry.

4. I remember a Subaru owner who went bargain hunting. The shop removed the glass, discovered rust, dabbed black paint, and sent him on his way. Three months later, a stress crack crept from the lower corner, and water appeared under the passenger carpet after storms. The fix required stripping the dash, repairing the pinch weld, and starting over with the right primer system. The final bill was triple the original. The original savings evaporated the moment a shortcut met rain. On the other end, a mobile tech I trust rescheduled jobs when the dew point was high and his meter showed surface moisture. He kept a logbook of cure times and temperatures. Customers waited another day, then drove for years without a squeak. He didn’t talk about perfection. He talked about conditions. When mobile makes sense, and when a shop bay is smarter Mobile auto glass service shines for straightforward jobs: windshield repair of chips before contamination sets in, car window repair on fixed quarter glass, and many standard windshield replacements in mild weather. You get convenience without compromising quality if the van is well equipped and the tech respects cure times. A shop bay earns its keep when your car needs static calibration targets, when the outside temperature makes urethane behave poorly, or when extensive trim and headliner work is necessary. Some coupes and convertibles need door glass alignment that benefits from a lift and laser tools, especially in car window glass replacement where frameless windows must seal against the roof precisely. A pro will steer you to the right environment for the job, not just the easiest schedule slot. What matters for side and rear glass Windshields get the attention, but side and rear glass have quirks. Tempered side glass shatters into small beads on impact. Replacing it means vacuuming every last pellet from the door cavity so they don’t rattle for months. Moisture barriers inside the door must be reattached with proper butyl tape, not generic glue, or you’ll get wet carpets after the next wash. Rear windows often have embedded defroster lines and antennas. Mishandling the electrical connectors or using the wrong cleaner wipes out radio reception or splits the defroster grid. If you ask how they protect interior trim during car window glass replacement, listen for words like vapor barrier, clip map, and speaker cover. These details aren’t fluff. They’re the difference between a silent door and one that buzzes at 70. Insurance, networks, and choosing your shop Many insurers funnel glass claims through national networks. You can use the network and still choose your preferred auto glass shop. The law in many states protects your right to select. A local shop that knows your region’s weather, the common road debris issues, and the quirks of regional car fleets can be a better fit than a random assignment. Just make sure they can bill your insurer or provide the documentation you’ll need to get reimbursed. If a call center agent pushes a particular shop, ask whether that shop will perform in‑house calibration, what glass they intend to install, and whether you can upgrade to OEM if you pay the difference. You’re the customer. The insurer’s priority is cost control. Yours is safety and satisfaction. Timing, prep, and what you can do to help You can make the job smoother. Clear the dashboard of gadgets and cords. If you’ve got a transponder or dash cam attached to the glass, mention it. Some dash cams need new adhesive pads, and most ADAS calibrations work best when aftermarket devices don’t obstruct the camera view. If your car has rain‑repellent coatings, tell the tech. They’ll clean the bonding area more thoroughly to ensure the mirror mount and sensor pads stick. Plan your day around the safe drive‑away time. Don’t pressure a tech to release the car early. I’ve seen otherwise good installations compromised by an owner eager to catch school pickup 20 minutes too soon. If a shop offers a lounge, use it. Bring a book. Let chemistry work. The quiet test drive and what to watch for afterward The first drive after a windshield replacement should be boring. No wind hiss at 40 mph. No drips during the next rain. The wipers should sweep cleanly without chattering, and the cowl should sit flush. If you have a head‑up display, the

5. image should be steady, not doubled. If lane assist or cruise misbehaves, call the shop immediately. ADAS issues are generally calibration, not defective glass. Keep an eye on the upper corners of the windshield for a few days. If you see the molding lifting or a fine line creeping from a corner without a visible impact, document it with photos and call. Most issues are easy fixes when addressed quickly. A short checklist you can bring to the counter Which glass brand and part number will you install for my VIN, and why? What urethane system do you use, what’s the safe drive‑away time today, and will you prime the pinch weld and glass? Do you handle ADAS calibration for my model, and will I get a calibration report? How do you address rust, replace trim clips, and protect the interior and paint? What does your warranty cover, and what’s the complete cost including calibration and moldings? Why this effort pays off Auto glass repair and auto glass replacement sit at a crossroads of craftsmanship and chemistry. A good shop treats a windshield like a structural component. They balance cost and performance, explain options clearly, and own their work if something squeaks or leaks. If the person across the counter can talk about bead height, primer flash times, and calibration targets without resorting to jargon for its own sake, you’re in the right place. I’ve watched shops evolve from “a guy with a knife and a tube” to disciplined teams with checklists, laser levels, and scan tools. The best part hasn’t changed. It’s the pride they take when a customer drives off in silence, the rain hits, and nothing happens. No drip. No hiss. Just the quiet assurance that the glass is doing its job. Ask these ten questions. Listen closely. The right answers sound like habit, not sales copy. Then let the pros get to work while you enjoy the only sign of a perfect job: nothing to notice.