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  2. Tape Measure –a flexible tape that slides into a case. The tape has a hook on the end that adjusts to true zero.

  3. Folding wooden rule-usually 6 to 8 feet long, this rule is good for inside measurements. The reading on the brass extension can be added to the length of the rule itself.

  4. Sliding T-bevel-checking and transferring angles. The blade pivots and can be locked to match any angle

  5. Punches-the center punch is used to make a starting point in wood or metal. The pin punch is flat on the end and is used to remove assembling pins.

  6. Try square- the most common woodworking square for laying out and checking 90’ angles. It can be used to test a surface for levelness and squareness. It is often used to make lines across the face or edge of stock.

  7. Carpenter’s square-usually has a 2” x 24” blade and a 1 ½ “ x 16 tongue. Made of metal, this square is used for laying out line and squaring when a smaller square would not be accurate.

  8. Combination square-Used to check and lay out 90’ degree and 45’ degree angles. The handle slides on the blade so that it can be used as a depth gauge. A spirit level in the handle can be used to check level and plumb.

  9. Speed Square-marked with degrees for fast layouts. Its small size makes it handy for quick layouts.

  10. Carpenters Level-used to check level and plumb. Digital model are also available.Standard lengths 24’’ and 48’’

  11. Stud Finder-Finds the studs in a wall by measuring the density of the wall

  12. Claw hammer-the most commonly used hammer. The curved claw provides leverage for pulling nails. The face may be flat, bell shaped, or checkered. For most work, a 13- to 16- ounce head weight is appropriate

  13. Ripping hammer-has a wedge-shaped claw used for prying apart pieces that have been nailed together. It has a mesh type face for rough framing work. It should not be used for finish work.

  14. Tack Hammer-a small lightweight hammer that holds and sets tacks. It usually weighs only 5 to 8 ounces. It is used for picture frames, cabinetmaking, trim, and upholstery.

  15. Rubber Mallet-used mainly for assembling projects

  16. Nail Puller-sometimes called a cat’s paw. It is driven under the head of a nail so that the nail can be pulled out more easily.

  17. Brace-bores large holes in wood by hand. Special auger bits must be used with the brace.

  18. Cordless Drill-an electric drill powered by a rechargeable battery that fits into the handle.

  19. Twist Bit-designed for wood. If you use it with metal, lubricate it with machine oil.

  20. Spade Bit-the long point makes it easy to locate a hole exactly where you want it. Start the drill at a slow speed as it enters the wood. If you are not careful, it will leave a splintered exit hole.

  21. Hole Saw-cuts large holes in wood, plastic, and thin metal. It is mounted on a special arbor with a bit in the middle to guide the say into the wood in the correct location.

  22. Auger Bit- for electric drills

  23. Nut Driver-acts like a screw driver but turns hexagonal nuts and bolts instead of screws

  24. AVIATION SNIPS-easier to use on metal than tin snips; especially designed to make curved and straight cuts in metal

  25. Long Nose Pliers (Needle Nose)-use to hold small objects, especially in electrical work. Sometimes they have a wire cutter on the side for cutting small gauge wire.