REGIONAL TRAINING WORKSHOP ON ECOLABELLING

1. REGIONAL TRAINING WORKSHOP ON ECOLABELLING Rio de Janeiro, Brazil19th – 20th August 2010

2. Module : TextilesIntroduction of the EU Flower Criteria Rahul Bhajekar Managing Director, Texanlab Laboratories Pvt Ltd. India

3. Agenda • Introduction / participants • Key documents and Eco-label website • Eco-label criteria for Textiles • Application process for EU Eco-label • Exercises • Legislation and the EU Flower

4. Introduction (s) Who are we ? What are we doing here ?

5. 2. Relevant documents • A) Criteria document • B) User Manual / Application pack • C) How to find documents, contacts, news, other license keepers, potential customers at the webpage

6. 2 A) Criteria document • Available in different languages • Consists of two parts: • The Commission decision • Product group definition • Validity information • Annex • Framework • Criteria

7. 2 A) Criteria • First issued 2002, valid until 2007 • Extended in 2007 • Extended in 2008 • CURRENT CRITERIA : 9 July 2009, 2009/567/EC

8. 2 B) User Manual / Application Pack • Help & guidance, prefabricated declarations (including no-use) • Part A: General • Part B: Specific for textiles: • Description of the product • Fibres • Processes, chemicals and reporting energy and water consumption • Fitness for use • Information on label

9. 2 B) User Manual / Application Pack • Part B: Detailed information for applicants • The criterion • Exceptions • Assessment and verification • Test requirements • Requirements for applicants

10. 2 C) EU Ecolabel Website • http://ec.europa.eu/environment/ecolabel/ • Information & Background • Documents Download • Application procedures • Brochures • Useful links • FAQ • Policies

11. 2 C) EU eco-label website • www.eco-label.com • Search a Product • Search for Manufacturers • Browse Labelled Products • Take a Quiz !

12. Questions?

13. EU Flower Criteria for Textiles : Basic information

14. Basic Information • Who can apply for the EU Eco-label ? • How much does it cost ? • Any discounts ? • What products can get the Eco Label?

15. Who can apply ? • Manufacturer • Importer • Services Provider (Agents) • Traders • Retailers

16. What does it cost ?Fees effective March 2010

17. What are Medium, Small & Micro Enterprises ? < 250 Employees Turnover < 40 Mio EUR • Less than 50 employees • Annual Turnover < 7 Mio EUR or • Annual Balance Sheet < 5 Mio EUR • Less than 10 employees

18. EU Flower for textiles is applicable to : • Products with min 90 % textile fibres • Textile Clothing • Accessories for Clothing (Handkerchiefs, Scarves, Bags and Shopping Bags, Rucksacks, Belts etc. • Interior Textiles (excl wall and floor coverings) • Fibres, Yarn & Fabrics for above.

19. 90 % textile … • Down, feathers, membranes and coatings need not be taken into account in the calculation of the percentage of textile fibres.

20. 3. The EU-Flower Criteria for textiles2009/567/EC

21. Part 1Fibre Criteria

22. Criterion 1: Acrylic The residual acrylonitrile content in raw fibres < 1,5 mg/kg. (b) The emissions to air of acrylonitrile < 1 g/kg of fibre produced, expressed as an annual average.

23. Criterion 2: Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (including kapok) • Cotton and other natural cellulosic seed fibres (hereinafter referred to as cotton) shall not contain more than 0,05 ppm of different pesticides mentioned. • No pesticide tests if > 50 % of the cotton content is organically grown cotton or transitional cotton. • No pesticide tests if > 75% identified farmers with no use of the mentioned pesticides.

24. Criterion 2 (Cotton) – Use of Organic Cotton • For > 95 % certified organic cotton, allowed to write ‘organic cotton’ next to the eco-label. • For between 70 & 95 % certified organic cotton, allowed to write “made with x% organic cotton”.

25. Criterion 3: Elastane • (a) Organotin compounds shall not be used. • (b) The emissions (air) of aromatic diisocyanates < 5 mg/kg of fibre produced, expressed as an annual average.

26. Criterion 4: Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute, and ramie) • No water retting allowed, unless:Effluent water is treated to reduce the COD/ TOC by at least • 75 % (for hemp) • 95 % (for flax and the other bast fibres)

27. Criterion 5: Greasy wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep, camel, alpaca, goat) • Restrictions on sum total content of specified pesticides on raw wool. • No pesticide test if > 75% identified farmers with no use of the mentioned pesticides. • Scouring effluent discharge restrictions also apply.

28. Criterion 5 (wool) - continued Scouring effluent discharged : • COD < 60 g/kg greasy wool, and • the effluent shall be treated off-site with > 75 % reduction of COD, expressed as an annual average. Scouring effluent treated on site and discharged to surface waters: • COD < 5 g/kg greasy wool • pH 6 - 9 • temperature < 40 °C

29. Criterion 6: Man-made cellulose fibres (including viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro, triacetate) • (a) AOX in the fibres < 250 ppm. • (b) Viscose:Sulphur content of the emissions of sulphur compounds to air < 120 g/kg filament fibre produced and < 30 g/kg staple fibre produced, expressed as an annual average.

30. Criterion 6 (cellulose) - continued • (c) Viscose:Zinc emission (water) < 0,3 g/kg, expressed as an annual average. • (d) Cupro fibres:copper content of the effluent water leaving the site < 0,1 ppm, expressed as an annual average.

31. Criterion 7: Polyamide N2O emissions (air): • < 10 g/kg polyamide 6 fibre produced • < 50 g/kg polyamide 6,6 produced expressed as an annual average.

32. Criterion 8: Polyester • Antimony in the polyester fibres < 260 ppm. Where no antimony is used, the applicant may state ‘antimony free’ (or equivalent text) next to the eco-label.

33. Criterion 8 (polyester)–continued • (b) VOC emissions < 1,2 g/kg of produced polyester resin, expressed as an annual average.

34. Criterion 9: Polypropylene • Lead-based pigments shall not be used.

35. Part 2 Processes and chemicals

36. Firstly • The following criteria apply to all stages of production of the product. • But recycled fibres may contain some of the dyes or other substances excluded by these criteria, if from their previous life-cycle.

37. Criterion 10: Auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns Sizing compounds • At least 95 % of formulation shall be sufficiently biodegradable or recycled • Sum of all components of the formulation to be taken into account.

38. Criterion 10: (Auxiliaries) - cont Spinning auxiliaries and additives used in primary spinning • At least 90 % components should be sufficiently biodegradable or eliminable. • Content of PAH must be less than 3 % in mineral oil used.

39. Criterion 11: Biocidal or biostatic products • Ban on use of • Chlorophenols • PCB’s • Organotin compounds during transportation or storage of finished or unfinished goods.

40. Criterion 12: Stripping or depigmentation Ban on use of • Heavy metal salts (except of iron) • Formaldehyde

41. Criterion 13: Weighting • Compounds of cerium shall not be used in the weighting of yarn or fabrics.

42. Criterion 14: Auxiliary chemicals Preparations/formulations may not contain: • APEOs • LAS • DTDMAC • DSDMAC • DHTDMAC • EDTA • DTPA

43. Criterion 15: Detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents At each wet-processing site, at least 95 % by weight of : • detergents, • fabric softeners • complexing agents shall be degradable / eliminable. (Surfactants used must be ultimately biodegradable, aerobically)

44. Criterion 16: Bleaching agents • Chlorine bleach not to be used. • This requirement does not apply to the production of man-made cellulose fibres (viscose, acetate, lyocell etc.) • Section 6.1 requirement, AOX to be less than 250 ppm is however applicable.

45. Criterion 17: Impurities in dyes • The levels of ionic impurities in the dyes used shall not exceed the following:

46. Criterion 18: Impurities in pigments • The levels of ionic impurities for pigments used shall not exceed the following:

47. Criterion 19: Chrome mordant dyeing • Chrome mordant dyeing is not allowed.

48. Criterion 20: Metal complex dyes • If metal complex dyes based on copper, chromium or nickel are used: • For Cellulose dyeing:< 20 % of dyes shall be discharged to waste water. • For all other fibres< 7 % of dyes shall be discharged to waste water.

49. Criterion 20: (metal complex dyes) - cont • Effluent discharge after treatment should not contain more than • 75 mg/kg of Cu • 50 mg/kg of Cr • 75 mg/kg of Ni • On weight of fibre, yarn or fabric

50. Criterion 21: Azo dyes • Dyes which cleave to form specified banned amines should not be used.